Flash stronger than Vivitar 285?

N

noah b

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Hey all, just wondering if anyone knows of a handheld flash that is stronger than a Vivitar 285? I've used Metz flashes, but found I get the same output on the 285. Any input is appreciated!
 
You might try to get hold of a Sunpak 455 or 555, they have very high output.
The Hammerhead units from Metz are pretty good too.
 
I have a couple of Norman 200b's, which put out an honest 200 watt-seconds. More than a 283. And I also use the Powerpacks with my Hasselblad Ringlights, which also put out 200ws.
 
I checked the bcps on the metz 45 ct5 and vivitar, and metz was 4400 vs vivitar's 2500. Usually I work within 3 feet of my subject and I always got the same light meter readings between the two flashes, but the fill on the metz was turned off. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
The Metz 40 series hammerhead flashes have more power and more f-stop choices. You can also turn the fill flash on or off if you're bouncing the main head. That head also swivels, so you can try different bounce angles. It's a lot bigger, but it's also a lot more flash. The Nikon SB-28, mentioned above, give some of these features in a much smaller package and it shoe mounts, which the Metz does not.
 
I went through the same question a while back, and I found very few small on camera type flashes on the market that had as much, never mind more power or simplicity as the 285, so I just settled on the solution of putting two or three of them into the same position. I use them with high capacity external battery packs and can plug two flashes into each power pack, so this makes it easier for me to do this, but even powered by AA's these are good units. When there is no AC power available for larger studio strobes, these little flashes work like a charm. Of course if you are talking about using them on camera, I guess I'm not being helpful- but if you are talking about off camera, just use more than one!
 
Nokton48 said:
I have a couple of Norman 200b's, which put out an honest 200 watt-seconds. More than a 283. And I also use the Powerpacks with my Hasselblad Ringlights, which also put out 200ws.
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I had a couple of Norman 200B's myself, now I have a couple of 8 pound boat anchors (sigh!).

Forced me to buy a Norman 808M and four heads. Then my Vivitar 283 died. Forced me to buy a Strobonar 682S, and a Sunpak 611. One thing I have found out over the years, is Asians lie about GN's. All the American made strobes I have owned have been accurate, Norman and Lumadyne actually guaranteed their advertised GN's as minimums. Anyway Vivitar 283/285's have an actual GN of 80 (ISO 100). That Sunpak 611, advertised as 200WS GN 160 actually has a GN of 110. And all of them only hit that if you let them charge at least a minute, the ready lights come on about one stop before that.

Then there is the world of dedicated flashes. My Olympus EL-40 their TOL flash from the previous generation? Olympus warns me if I use it on my e420 it will damage the camera.... Oh, I use it all right, with a piece of plastic to block off all the pins, but the sync.

Luckily, most of us here on RFF actually know how to use a camera. Problems like the above are why I love old metal mechanical cameras. You just don't have those kinds of problems with them.

So, you asked for recommendations. I really do not know. The current Norman and Lumadynes are now around a thousand+ bucks. To me when Honeywell quit making the potato masher Strobonairs is when the flash market went to hell (that 682S is labeled Rollei), back in the 80's I had about eight of the 700 series Strobonairs.

If you really liked that 285, you can still buy new ones, of course they are now made in China instead of Japan.
 
JMQ said:
It's amazing that the Vivitar 283/285 flashes have been around since the 1980s...
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Yes, isn't it. That kind of endurance in a product is unusual. It was a classic from day-1.

Re: the original question... I use multiple 285s when I need more light since I don't have sufficient studio strobe needs to justify that kind of purchase.
 
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