focussing with a rangefinder

[der.chris.tian]

hi,

i own an olympus 35 rd and i think i still have problems with focussing with it. especially when it comes to moving subjects like people in the street or so...

is there any trick? how do you make it? this "pre focussing" thing is okay, but it seems to be a little inexact.

i really don't get it how you can use this tiny screen when the situation isn't slow and easy to overview...

 

[dcsang]

Ahhhhhhhh.. yes..

You know, it's all about the "scale" or "pre" focussing when it comes to some moving objects.

I'm not sure if the RD has a DOF scale on the lens but many of the other RF cameras do. You basically check your aperture against the DOF scale to determine just how close (or far) you need to be in order to ensure that the subject will be in focus.

If done properly, it can have some great effects, to the point where you don't even have to hold the camera to your eye if you know your framing well enough 🙂

It's a bit difficult to explain in text only - perhaps I should do up a document on this... I'm sure there's a ton of stuff online if googled but writing a "how-to" doc is always fun.

Dave

 

[vrgard]

I just did a quick Google search and found this page explaining hyperfocus and zone focus techniques. Perhaps not as elaborate an explanation as Dave may wish to do, but it does explain the techniques.

http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/marine/569/rusrngfdrs/focusing.html

-Randy

 

[der.chris.tian]

hmpf. the rd has no dof scale, so this technique doesn't fit well...

 

[wyk_penguin]

Get that Leica, and you turn into HCB 😀

 

[ampguy]

the 2nd part of that article

the 2nd part of that article

the zone focus part of that article Randy linked might still be useful if you have ft / meter markings on your focus ring.

While not 100% accurate, I'd think you would be within 95%+ using standard 35mm film DOF tables such as dofmaster.com to print out a table for your particular focal length.

The critical data that will be hard for you to find for your Olympus might be the "circle of confusion" which is .025mm (Leica) to .035 for 35mm film camera lens, but much different for digital cameras.

check out this site and the online calculators:

http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html

Either the site above, or some other (use your favorite search engines) should lead you to a printable template to put a DOF table on your lens.

hmpf. the rd has no dof scale, so this technique doesn't fit well...

 

[aad]

You can get a pretty good idea if you read the scale off another lens with the DOF scale-and shoot at f8 or more.

 

[der.chris.tian]

actually i don't get it. maybe my english is too bad *g*)

with pre-focussing as well with these other techniques i still have to assess the distance between subject and camera... when i set the aperture as small as i can it makes no difference if i know this hyperfocal distance or not, isn't it? *ask*

 

[eddie con]

you got it right about the use of small aperture and an estimate of distance. but given the challenges of street photography and what effects you are after, the use of small apertures will limit the possibilities and your creativity. i am afraid the two methods discussed in the dofmaster website are your best bet. it may just require several readings the way i learned it back then. maybe, it might help if you think of it like you are using an ordinary flash gun and you are set at 1/60 sec in a small indoor party. the amount of light is the constant but you keep in mind how far the people are and which of them you would like to see clearly on film. in such instances i get very good results with 5.6 or 8. got some bad ones too. but there is nothing like catching that great moment where an expression is caught or an instant event is documented. anyway, once i get my own personal scanner this week (pardon my GAS attack), i hope to post some of these party pictures here.
at the very least, i hope i did not add to the confusion.

 

[der.chris.tian]

of course - this "method" would create a lack of possibilities. hm... as you said: maybe i just have to read it several times to get through it well. but i still wonder if i'll have the time to apply the new techniques when the siuation is hectic and fast... 😉


so.. can i conlcude from your answers, that you don't look through the viewfinder due to focussing via splitscreen at all?

 

[kvanderlaag]

I personally focus and frame through the VF/RF even on the street, and when things are moving.

Then, I'm very young, have excellent eyes, and a camera that's easy to do so with.

Your mileage may vary. I never had any luck using DOF charts and scale focus.

 

[MCTuomey]

dct,

if this is obvious i apologize in advance.

setting your lens to hyperfocal distance frees you from focussing on the subject as you shoot. for example, in full sun i set my 90/2.8 at f16 and my s/s at 1/500. i can click away on any subject greater than 7 feet away, confident that it will be in focus, without relying on manual focus.

it's a way to pre-focus, really.

the larger the aperture, the longer the focal length of the lens, and the closer the expected subject, the smaller the hyperfocal (in-focus) range will be.

it's great for covering people within a crowd where action is everywhere at once. really effective with 35mm and shorter focal lengths.

 

[eddie con]

mike,
that is a simpler solution, especially for outdoors which i have not tried yet. it is not healthy to shoot street in our city. but with a 90/2.8 and subjects beyond 7 ft, that may give me some margin of safety. i have only used the 15 mm for outdoor street, and more for scenery.

jct,
well, in parties, some hate it when you take their photos candid. so i oblige when they ask for a second shoot, then i focus and wait for the right moment to click.