GAS for a Nikon F3, F3T or F3P?

taemo

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I recently bought a Nikon F3HP in poor condition, it works but body is pretty beat up, seals have deteriorated, eyepiece shutter wont close, missing motor-wind cover and when opening the back, the counter doesn't reset back to -2 unless I cock the shutter first (is this normal?)

long story short, I'm planning on sending the camera back and look for a mintier F3HP,

Is it worth spending twice the amount for a mintier F3T or even F3P?
For those that have used a F3P, any issue with the eyepiece not having a shutter for long exposure?
with the shutter button not having a cable release thread, can someone please explain what's the process of doing long exposures?
 
Having owned all four variations,

The F3T is where I would look,

But honestly, ide return yours and spend your money on a better HP. Maybe buy from KEH, so you know your getting something thats been properly looked over and conservatively rated.
 
thanks for the input, I have my eyes on some cleaner F3HP (including the one listed here on RFF) however a F3T is intriguing even though there's not a lot of differences to the F3HP.

what did you not like on the F3P?
 
To make a long story not so long:
Missing motor drive spindle cover: Duct tape works just fine, but in all likelihood you'll never use the camera without the drive so who cares?
Basic F3s (HP or non HP) are quite inexpensive, and unless you are prone to really rugged shooting conditions, you really don't need an F3T (of course wanting one is a different matter entirely), and you are unlikely to destroy one of the more mundane models anyway.
Lack of a shutter blind on F3P: cover the eyepiece with your hand (which is what I've done for years with FE, FE-2, FM, FM-2 bodies) or a piece of opaque cloth taped to the finder.
Lack of threaded shutter button: get an MR-2 terminal shutter which screws into the motor drive, and then attach an appropriately threaded cable release (which is what I've done for years) and you're in business.
I hope this information helps.
Robert
 
I think the biggest issue you're going to have with finding an F3P, is it's going to be very difficult to find one that is "minty" as every one I've ever come across has been quite worn. They were really sold to photojournalists and most were heavily used.
 
As far as the eyepiece shutter is concerned: Have you ever used a camera on AE on a tripod? AE capable pro bodies (starting with the F2S) had that shutter probably on request of wildlife photographers and corporate or institutional customers - it is convenient if you use the camera in unattended long-term surveillance settings, but otherwise the benefits were limited, even more so on the F3, whose heavy central weighting made it a rather unsuitable camera for point-and-shoot style all-automatic shooting.
 
I think the biggest issue you're going to have with finding an F3P, is it's going to be very difficult to find one that is "minty" as every one I've ever come across has been quite worn. They were really sold to photojournalists and most were heavily used.

Worse, they were sold (or given) as staff cameras - where the accountants took care that every item on the inventory was used to the maximum until written off...
 
I think the biggest issue you're going to have with finding an F3P, is it's going to be very difficult to find one that is "minty" as every one I've ever come across has been quite worn. They were really sold to photojournalists and most were heavily used.

Not so.
There seem to be two condition variations of the F3P commonly available for sale: either very well preserved by persons who managed to get one when they were not readily available to the public, thinking they'd be collectibles one day and now being sold off as prices for much manual focus film equipment drop,
or
the ones you mentioned that got hard use from working PJs and so look rather beat up.
Mine is one of the latter. It came with an equally beat-up MD-4, and was missing the motor drive spindle cover.
It is dented and dinged, but everything works and since it is just a tool for taking pictures, is exactly what I wanted and was wiling to pay for.
$225.00 on ebay.
Robert
 
There seem to be two condition variations of the F3P commonly available for sale: either very well preserved by persons who managed to get one when they were not readily available to the public, thinking they'd be collectibles one day and now being sold off as prices for much manual focus film equipment drop,

Well, the next time you see one like that, please let us know, cause I've yet to see one in a couple years of looking.
 
Stick with the standard or HP version. Very cheap, even when in super condition and just as strong as the T or P versions. Make sure the LCD is good and the secondary mirror doesnt stick ( easily fixed ) and you'll never wear it out. I prefer the non HP as the viewfinder is more magnified. They made so many of them that it's easy to pick and choose a nice one.
 
Thanks everyone, I'm leaning on another F3HP at this point.
Will be sending back the one that I got and buy one in better condition.
I wear glasses and prefer lower magnification so I will stick with a HP.
 

I limit purchases on the big auction site to US sellers as living in the States it's easier without customs fees and returning an item if not as described. Save for the F3P with the red leather half case (which he's had for sale for at least six months and I believe is overpriced) none of those cameras from US sellers are even close to mint.

The deceptive thing about the F3P cameras is since the finder isn't painted brass, it can be pretty scraped up and still look fine from a distance as the dark grey showing through on the corners isn't so noticeable, until you look at it closely.
 
Buy a standard F3 if you must and spend the saved dosh on a s/h F6. you'll never pick up the F3 again.

Hey John, would still someday like to get an F6, but have you heard the stories/rumors about no parts being available for repair on those. Don't know if it's an urban legend or some kind of internet hoax, but that would give me pause about picking one of those up if it can't be repaired.
 
I limit purchases on the big auction site to US sellers as living in the States it's easier without customs fees and returning an item if not as described. Save for the F3P with the red leather half case (which he's had for sale for at least six months and I believe is overpriced) none of those cameras from US sellers are even close to mint.

The deceptive thing about the F3P cameras is since the finder isn't painted brass, it can be pretty scraped up and still look fine from a distance as the dark grey showing through on the corners isn't so noticeable, until you look at it closely.

So?
Is it an object to fondle and worship, or is it to be used to take photos?
If it's (as I suspect from your comments) the former, you can spend all the time you like searching the planet for the Perfect Specimen" and perhaps you'll even convince the seller to give it away at what you consider to be a Goldilocks price.
 
Hey John, would still someday like to get an F6, but have you heard the stories/rumors about no parts being available for repair on those. Don't know if it's an urban legend or some kind of internet hoax, but that would give me pause about picking one of those up if it can't be repaired.

I find that very hard to believe seeing it is still in production. Nikon must have parts to build them!

The thing I like about the F3 (and F, F2, FE etc etc) is that you just pick em up and go w/o wondering what does what. If I don't use my F6 for months (which happens as I prefer my other Nikons) all the saved settings are deleted, the clock needs to be reset, and I have to open the owner's manual to remember what everything does! (I remove the batteries from all my cameras when they are not used)
 
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