Filson Back
Established
OK--so I've been shooting for about four years. I have shot about 300 rolls of film on an M2, and several tens of thousands of digital shots. I a getting tired of the digital treadmill and I want to try film in the darkroom. I also want to go for a consistent look--one that is usable for a long-term project. I particularly like the high-contrast and intentionally rough quality of the "are, bure, bokeh" Japanese photography of the 60s/70s--it seems less literal and more poetic. In particular I admire the book on the Ravens by Fukase--one can view it here:
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2010/may/24/masahisa-fukase-ravens-photobook
Can any of you veterans recommend a film, developer, paper combination that would be good? I have both diafine and rodinal on hand -- plus some powdered d76. Thanks in advance.
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2010/may/24/masahisa-fukase-ravens-photobook
Can any of you veterans recommend a film, developer, paper combination that would be good? I have both diafine and rodinal on hand -- plus some powdered d76. Thanks in advance.
Sejanus.Aelianus
Veteran
1. Take pictures
2. Develop pictures
3. Print pictures
4. Look at pictures
5. Reprint pictures
6. Repeat from 4 until you get what you want or don't think you can do any more with those negatives.
7. Go back to 1.
You know what you want, so most of the pleasure, now, will be in achieving it.
:angel:
2. Develop pictures
3. Print pictures
4. Look at pictures
5. Reprint pictures
6. Repeat from 4 until you get what you want or don't think you can do any more with those negatives.
7. Go back to 1.
You know what you want, so most of the pleasure, now, will be in achieving it.
:angel:
nightfly
Well-known
I've gone down this road and have three suggestions:
1) Rodinal 1:25. This has become my standard. It's not super contrasty but you can adjust with time and temperature. It's the most controllable solution I've found and the one I like the best. Might be a little too controlled for what you want.
2) Dektol as developer. Google it and find out the ratio, this will get you a lot of contrast and that Provoke sort of look.
3) Fuji SPD developer. Difficult to find in the states. I think I got some from Japan.
Film wise, Tri-X is your best bet. Not sure if they still make Neopan 1600 but that works really well too.
Also don't be too picky about your development. Let the time and temperature vary a bit. Invite a little chance and randomness into your process.
From a technique standpoint, the hardest part is giving up a bit of control and making yourself push the shutter quickly. Basically getting out of your own way and letting the photos flow. It's an acquired skill. I found that this worked best when I was shooting a lot and not thinking too much. There's a fine line between random hip shots and getting this sort of intuitive, impressionistic quality that is still intentional.
You could also do this digitally if you wanted but I'm sure you know that.
Good luck.
1) Rodinal 1:25. This has become my standard. It's not super contrasty but you can adjust with time and temperature. It's the most controllable solution I've found and the one I like the best. Might be a little too controlled for what you want.
2) Dektol as developer. Google it and find out the ratio, this will get you a lot of contrast and that Provoke sort of look.
3) Fuji SPD developer. Difficult to find in the states. I think I got some from Japan.
Film wise, Tri-X is your best bet. Not sure if they still make Neopan 1600 but that works really well too.
Also don't be too picky about your development. Let the time and temperature vary a bit. Invite a little chance and randomness into your process.
From a technique standpoint, the hardest part is giving up a bit of control and making yourself push the shutter quickly. Basically getting out of your own way and letting the photos flow. It's an acquired skill. I found that this worked best when I was shooting a lot and not thinking too much. There's a fine line between random hip shots and getting this sort of intuitive, impressionistic quality that is still intentional.
You could also do this digitally if you wanted but I'm sure you know that.
Good luck.