Fabian
Established
Hello there
I am starting developing film myself. I would like you to check my list of stuff to buy, if there is anything serious missing or wrong. I would like to keep it as simple as possible.
- Kodak T-Max 100
- Kodak HC-110
- Cheap stop and fixation bath
- Developingtank
- Some stuff that speeds up the drying of the film
- something to measure the liquids
- Do I need a filmopener or is a bottle opener working fine?
- Some advice to speed up washingprocess
Anything I forgot? Advice is recommended
Thanks
I am starting developing film myself. I would like you to check my list of stuff to buy, if there is anything serious missing or wrong. I would like to keep it as simple as possible.
- Kodak T-Max 100
- Kodak HC-110
- Cheap stop and fixation bath
- Developingtank
- Some stuff that speeds up the drying of the film
- something to measure the liquids
- Do I need a filmopener or is a bottle opener working fine?
- Some advice to speed up washingprocess
Anything I forgot? Advice is recommended
Thanks
markinlondon
Elmar user
You might want a changing bag unless you've somewhere really lighttight. A beer bottle opener will work for opening cassettes. Use the Ilford wash process, see www.ilfordphoto.com for data sheets.
Mark
Mark
pesphoto
Veteran
Ive used the same bottle opener for my canisters since I was 15 yrs old(now 39)
Photo flo - for eliminating drying spots on your film.
Photo flo - for eliminating drying spots on your film.
Andy K
Well-known
A film tongue retreiver might help, as already stated a changing bag.
You will also need a thermometer.
Four measuring jugs to fill the tank will help (developer, stop bath, fixer and one for clean water) and a large bowl for getting the water to the right temperature before mixing your solutions.
You will also need somewhere to hang the film and something to hang it with ie film clips.
Scissors.
Negative storage sleeves.
It is a good idea to use chemicals from the same company, ie if you use Agfa Rodinal, then also use Agfa Agifix etc. as you have kodak then use a kodak fixer.
As for speeding up the process, take some advice, if you rush there is a good chance things could go wrong. For your first few films take your time, don't rush, figure out what works for you.
Good luck and welcome to the darkroom.
You will also need a thermometer.
Four measuring jugs to fill the tank will help (developer, stop bath, fixer and one for clean water) and a large bowl for getting the water to the right temperature before mixing your solutions.
You will also need somewhere to hang the film and something to hang it with ie film clips.
Scissors.
Negative storage sleeves.
It is a good idea to use chemicals from the same company, ie if you use Agfa Rodinal, then also use Agfa Agifix etc. as you have kodak then use a kodak fixer.
As for speeding up the process, take some advice, if you rush there is a good chance things could go wrong. For your first few films take your time, don't rush, figure out what works for you.
Good luck and welcome to the darkroom.
bmattock
Veteran
Fabian said:
Need:
* Thermometer.
Advice as desired:
Child-medicine syringe (no needle) to measure HC-110 or Rodinal or any highly concentrated developer is best/easiest.
Photo-Flo doesn't "speed up the drying of the film" exactly - it basically keeps water spots from forming by breaking up surface tension of water.
I tear film cartridges open with my fingers, but others seem to need tools. You can open with a church key, or you can use a film extractor.
You can speed up the washing process by using hypo clearing agent, also known as hypo wash. This cuts down rinse time. I find that I don't mind rinse time, but it is up to you.
I'm sure you realize you need some sort of reels inside the developing tank to hold the film.
As mentioned - a dark room must be totally dark - or use a changing bag.
Good luck!
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
pesphoto
Veteran
bmattock said:
All due respect, I don't think I mentioned that photo flo speeds up the drying process, which it does not, as you said Bill.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
You'll need a thermometer to check temperature, and a Syringe to measure HC110
Also try getting a leader retriever, much more sueful than a cap opener
Washing film is pretty easy, no need for HCA or anything.
Just add water to cover the film (350ml for 35mm), agitate and dump
do that 5 times, add some LFN or Photoflo to the 6th wash (don;t agitate this one) and hang to dry
I'm using those slackers hangers to hang 2 rolls in the crutain rod of the bathroom and then plastic pony clamps (4 for $1) as weights at the bottom of the strip.
Also try getting a leader retriever, much more sueful than a cap opener
Washing film is pretty easy, no need for HCA or anything.
Just add water to cover the film (350ml for 35mm), agitate and dump
do that 5 times, add some LFN or Photoflo to the 6th wash (don;t agitate this one) and hang to dry
I'm using those slackers hangers to hang 2 rolls in the crutain rod of the bathroom and then plastic pony clamps (4 for $1) as weights at the bottom of the strip.
markinlondon
Elmar user
pesphoto said:
Mine advertises a beer that hasn't been brewed for 20 years
. I think it belonged to my Grandad. Photoflo, good tip. Andy, Agfa Rodinal works fine with Fotospeed stop bath and Ilford fixer for me. Have you had a problem in the past? In my experience citric acid and ammonium thiosulphate are pretty much the same whoever packages them.
Mark
bmattock
Veteran
pesphoto said:
Actually, I took it from the O/P's post, which said "something to speed up the drying process." I took that to mean Photo-Flo and not a neg dryer. Perhaps I read too much into it.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
kmack
do your job, then let go
For glassware and such I use Mountain Home Biological . They will sometimes have quality lab ware cheaper ( graduated cylinders, beakers, reagent bottles and such) I personally prefer using glass to plastic when I can. I find it easier to clean.
I also prefer erlenmeyer flasks to beakers for mixing. You can slosh the stuff around without spilling. Harder to clean though.
They have been a good company to deal with. I ordered some amber 250ML bottles from them and when one arrived broken they sent a replacement no questions asked.
I also prefer erlenmeyer flasks to beakers for mixing. You can slosh the stuff around without spilling. Harder to clean though.
They have been a good company to deal with. I ordered some amber 250ML bottles from them and when one arrived broken they sent a replacement no questions asked.
Last edited:
bmattock
Veteran
kmack said:
Thanks for that link! I've been looking for someone like that online.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
kmack
do your job, then let go
bmattock said:
You're welcome, my wife doesn't call me a Cheap Stingy Bast*** for nothing!
Fabian
Established
Thanks for so many answers.
I dont need a changing bag because i got a daylight development tank.
With the stuff to speed up the drying of the film, I meant something I heard about where your film is dry after one minute. I dont need that because I want to hurry but because I have no idea where to hang my film for drying.
What do you think about the combination hc-110 and tmax 100?
I see I have to get a lot of stuff.
Fabian
I dont need a changing bag because i got a daylight development tank.
With the stuff to speed up the drying of the film, I meant something I heard about where your film is dry after one minute. I dont need that because I want to hurry but because I have no idea where to hang my film for drying.
What do you think about the combination hc-110 and tmax 100?
I see I have to get a lot of stuff.
Fabian
Andy K
Well-known
Fabian said:
You need a changing bag to get the film from the film canister onto the reels and into the tank.
markinlondon
Elmar user
Fabian said:
You may still need a changing bag, what brand of tank is that? You still have to get the film out of the cassette.
Mark
bmattock
Veteran
Andy K said:
Andy is correct. Alternatively, you can use a closet, but it must be absolutely light-tight. The usual method to determine that would be to go into the closet, turn out the light, and wait five full minutes. If, after your eyes have adjusted to the dark, you can see the outline of your hand in front of your own face, the room is not dark enough.
I've done the closet method for years, but just got my first changing bag. I tried it and I like it.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
ed1k
Well-known
Instead of photoflo consider buying pure alcohol. Don't go to liquer store as they don't sell such strong stuff. You need 96%. After you carefully and long enough rinsed your film, just put it on reels into alcohol for a few seconds (up to a minute should be enough, I think). It probably can dry then on reels or you can unroll and hold film for a few minutes until it is completely dry. But I think always there is a place to hang a film for an hour, it's cheaper and better (long duration in alcohol can overdry emulsion and it will be easily damaged).
Eduard.
bmattock
Veteran
ed1k said:
I have to admit, I reacted with shock to reading this. I had never heard of it - and it sounds DANGEROUS!!! Raw alcohol is incredibly flammable.
Now, I went back and did a Google search, and it appears that some folks advocate adding alcohol (Isopropyl) to water or Photo-Flo (in a 10 to 1 ratio, the 10 being water) to a) decrease drying times, and b) help prevent drying marks like water spots.
I did not find anything like using raw alcohol to speed film drying. I did find a reference in astrophotography to hypersensitizing film by dunking it in a solution of alcohol and ammonia in a darkroom, then respooling the film when dry and shooting with it.
My gut reaction is that this is not a good thing. I can't imagine that it would do the film any good for long-term storage, if such is your goal, and it does sound very dangerous.
If you really can't wait, you can always invest in a new or used film drying rack or build one yourself - or even take your chances with a hair dryer - but I wouldn't. What's the big deal with waiting?
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Fabian said:
I use clothespins (might want to add those to your list) to pin my film to a coat hanger, which I hang from my shower rack. After using a film squgee (another thing to add) to get most of the water off, I leave them hanging there with the exhaust fan running and the door shut. Usually takes about 15 min. to dry.
bmattock
Veteran
captainslack said:
Yeah, that works good, but in my house with three cats and two dogs that all shed like crazy all the time, turn on a fan and your film will look like it is wearing a fur coat by the time it is dry. I go for 'no moving air' and let it sit for an hour instead!
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks