cameratos
Member
Don't have problem with focusing; was able to learn that quickly enough with outstanding result.My real problem is the exposure metering of the G1.I am used to handheld external meter with my m2 but I cannot seem to shake off the stark contrast and overexposures in some portions of the shot.I will try to use the compensation more systematically so I understand how this camera works. When the contrast is strong being in the tropics the metering seems unable to read an average measurement of the light .....any suggestions or tips; I must be doing something wrong..
S
Socke
Guest
I don't know about your handheld meter, but the G1 and 2 are center weighted. Both usually agree with my Gossen Sixtar but disagree with my Weston Master V.
I often have nearly blown out highlights but good shadows with strong contrast, that's ok with some small lights i.E. windows, narrow streets and so on.
In very tricky lighting I measure from something close to neutral grey like the pavement or a patch of grass or the palm of my hand and adjust by gut feeling and common knowledge.
cameratos
Member
should I just go totally manual then...including focus ..will the camera respond and allow you to shoot since its electronic?
S
Socke
Guest
Compare the readings to your handheld meter and get to know the G1s characteristics. It is consistent!
I for one am torn between exposure compensation and manual exposure, I tend to prefer manual over compensation. When in doubt, bracket
panos
Established
i think manual focus and lightmeter reading are two different things
it is not going to change the metering if you use manual focus
i suggest that you use an external light meter and still use the camera AF
usually what i do is to meter the highlights of a scene and then open up by a stop but
that is just me
you should do different tests , write everything done , check the results and see what works for you.
if you want to test the lightmeter and the shutter of the camera
you can
1 buy a gray card (18 % gray )
2 put the camera on a tripod
3 put the card outside on a sunny day and make sure that the light is even
4 frame just the card
5 and go through all the F and speed
for example if you meter reading is f:22 and t:30
then do f:16 and t:60
f:11 and t:125
f:8 and t:250
f:5.6 and t:500
f:4 and t:1000
f:2.8 and t:2000
then develop the film and if the density of each exposure is the same and has the same value in terms of percentage of gray with the gray card then it means that your lightmeter and shutter in the speeds that you tested is correct.
it is not going to change the metering if you use manual focus
i suggest that you use an external light meter and still use the camera AF
usually what i do is to meter the highlights of a scene and then open up by a stop but
that is just me
you should do different tests , write everything done , check the results and see what works for you.
if you want to test the lightmeter and the shutter of the camera
you can
1 buy a gray card (18 % gray )
2 put the camera on a tripod
3 put the card outside on a sunny day and make sure that the light is even
4 frame just the card
5 and go through all the F and speed
for example if you meter reading is f:22 and t:30
then do f:16 and t:60
f:11 and t:125
f:8 and t:250
f:5.6 and t:500
f:4 and t:1000
f:2.8 and t:2000
then develop the film and if the density of each exposure is the same and has the same value in terms of percentage of gray with the gray card then it means that your lightmeter and shutter in the speeds that you tested is correct.
cameratos
Member
thank you will do exactly that today.However it would be nice if I am liberated from handheld meter for a change and rely on the the cameras meter; its just knowing how this camera reads.Will also try the ABC bracketing.See if that helps.
the other option is to look into is the film reaction to the shot, noticed that ILFORD,FUJI Pan 400 have similarities in their treatment to highly contrast shots as opposed to Lucky and Kodak having similar characteristics.
my last question is can the developing of the film have anything to do with my washout problems.I develop the negatives with D76 and the label says different film brands at different times.I follow that by the book.However there are also different times at different constant exposures with some brands.Can that be a factor?
the other option is to look into is the film reaction to the shot, noticed that ILFORD,FUJI Pan 400 have similarities in their treatment to highly contrast shots as opposed to Lucky and Kodak having similar characteristics.
my last question is can the developing of the film have anything to do with my washout problems.I develop the negatives with D76 and the label says different film brands at different times.I follow that by the book.However there are also different times at different constant exposures with some brands.Can that be a factor?
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cameratos
Member
will try posting some negatives I have developed
Zappa
Member
If you measure the light from the palm of your hand, how accurate is this compared to natural grey? Do you compensate with one stop down, or 1/2 stop?
I have quite pale hands and some advice here would be much appreciated!
cameratos
Member
I got it...in a highly contrast enviroment best if one compensate 1 stop to 1.5 then develop a minute or half less.I use d76 of course and tri-x or tmax100.
each enviroment reacts differently to the lens or camera readings in my case this is what works. Ilford and neopans are difficult to handle in this enviroment so I stick with Kodak.
each enviroment reacts differently to the lens or camera readings in my case this is what works. Ilford and neopans are difficult to handle in this enviroment so I stick with Kodak.