Going from X-100 to M-P. Which lens to start with?

[thjk]

I deicide to get the M-P but still largely undecided which lens to choose. My idea is to start with 35mm to familiarize with the system since it is the same with my x-100. I also want to try the 50 because I am so impressed of the pictures in Flickr taken by APO 50 cron. But the very high price of the APO makes me think hard.

Therefore, my idea is to start with current 35mm cron. And may try some used 50 cron or summarit to see whether I like the 50 mm or not. After that I will decide which lens I will live with. 35 or 50, cron or lux. I wish I will use only one lens.

What are your suggestions? I never use M digital or rangefinder before except Fuji X100. My pictures are 50% portrait, 30% landscape or architecture and 20% walk-around/street.

 

[btgc]

That calls for 43mm FOV.....or get 'em all and decide what to keep and what to sell.

 

[stephen.w]

If you are happy with the field of view of your X100, then you needn't worry about not liking a 35mm lens. That said, rangefinder photography comes with its own "way of seeing" and you may find in time that you prefer different focal lengths with your M. 35mm and 50mm are a nice set, and there are many perfectly acceptable alternatives to the 50mm APO Summicron. Indeed, the real world advantages of this lens will only really be present in tripod work with static objects made into large prints.

 

[jsrockit]

There's always Voigtlander... or Zeiss if you want to experiment with a focal length before committing to a much more expensive Leica lens.

 

[icebear]

I use a 50 Planar and 35'cron on my M9 and MM, these two lenses cover most of what I shoot outdoors. I have never had the impression that I need to upgrade from the Planar, it's a stellar lens. The APO50 ... if you want it real bad and have the money, go for it. I know I will not spent that much on any lens.

 

[k__43]

I use a X100 and a V4 summicron on my M6 - I can't say it is similar in results cos one is film the other digital (obviously) but for framing and distance to subject I feel at home with both

Maybe you'll find you have another preference for focal length on film ? I'd advice you to try the 40mm Summicron-C. So you are in the middle somehow. if you don't like it you can always sell it.

The APO 50/2 might be a bit over the top with film. I'd try a zeiss planar if I'd look for "clean".

 

[jaapv]

Summicron-C 40/2.0 A wonderful little lens and not expensive, excellent for feeling your way into the system - only drawback- the framelines are not that accurate, but that is a minor inconvenience once one has gotten used to it..

 

[aizan]

28/2.8 or 35/2 and 75/2 or 90/2.8, with a 50/1.4 in between.

or maybe get a bunch of voightlanders: 28/2, 35/1.7, 50/1.5, 75/1.8.

 

[thjk]

Thank you for all comments. I will check 50mm Plana. How about 35mm, which one?

 

[airfrogusmc]

For the money the Zeiss 35 2.8 Biogon C is a real gem

 

[GaryLH]

I don't think there is a right or wrong choice here.. Between the voigtlanders, zeiss and Leica lenses over the years there has been a lot of winners. A lot really has to do with your wants and desires as well..

When I was younger, I had opportunity to own several aspheric Leica lenses such as the 35 asph cron. But u know what, the lens in 35 I used the most on my m6 was a non-asph 35 cron v4 for its small size and I just like the way it draws. The asph beat the heck out of the v4 cron in terms of sharpness, but at end of the day the v4 was what I liked.

Everyone has given u a lot of great choices.. Check out Flickr for the lenses u have narrowed down..

Gary

 

[Rob-F]

Are you keeping the X100? If so, you could use it for the 35mm FOV and add a second focal length for the MP. And since half your shots are portraits, have you thought about a 90? I started out with a 35 and a 90 on my M2, without a 50 in between. I had to re-think compositions that a 50 would have been right for; but that wasn't hard!

Also, you can spend some time walking around with your MP, using the frameline selector lever to frame subjects in the various focal lengths, to see which lenses are likely to be right for you--before you buy.

 

[BillBingham2]

The new CV 35/1.7 would be where I would start.

Don't like it, sell it and move up the price tree.

B2

 

[Ronald M]

Summicron-C 40/2.0 A wonderful little lens and not expensive, excellent for feeling your way into the system - only drawback- the framelines are not that accurate, but that is a minor inconvenience once one has gotten used to it..

Use 35mm lines for landscape and 50 mm for close. You will need external finder(s) or camera with selectable frame lines.

I would not buy one modified to 35 mm lines as it is not reversible.

My little Rollie has a fixed 40 Tessar and it is freedom not to worry what lens to use. Also look at 40 mm CV lenses.

 

[jaapv]

The OP has the M-P which has a frameline selector lever. However, after a little habituation it will be second nature to frame the lens without really worrying about framelines.
I have one modified for 35 mm which suits me fine, YMMV.

 

[Godfrey]

When I bought my M-P, the first lens I put on it was the Nokton 50mm f/1.5 ASPH (LTM). It produces wonderful photographs. Next was the Summilux 35mm f/1.4 v2 (1972 Mandler-design lens). Also produces wonderful results. You can't go wrong with either. 🙂

I've since added the Elmar-M 24mm f/3.8 ASPH and Summarit-M 75mm f/2.4 to the kit. My most used walking about kit now is either the M-P with Nokton 50 or M-P with 35/75 pair. I use the 24/3.8, a 90/4, and a 135/4.5 somewhat less frequently.

G

 

[blakeM3]

You may want to consider renting or borrowing a few lenses before you buy one. I'm of the belief that you need to shoot a few hundred images with a lens before you can really get a feel for its rendering and characteristics, and your shooting style with a new lens. That way you can shoot with a 35 and then trade off for a 50. And, now, you can even rent Leica and Zeiss M mount lenses for a reasonable rate. Some places will even sell you the lens that you rented. Ultimately, this helps you avoid a dissatisfying purchase and the remedial measures of finding a new lens.

I would second the recommendation for the ZM Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 C-Biogon. Incredibly sharp; excellent color. Zeiss is special in this regard. It is tack sharp at 2.8. I prefer lenses with a clinically sharp drawing, and this lens does the trick.

Another great option is the CV 35/2.5 PII color skopar. This lens costs about as much as a very nice dinner, and is well regarded as sharp and capable.

 

[Kwesi]

I deicide to get the M-P but still largely undecided which lens to choose. My idea is to start with 35mm to familiarize with the system since it is the same with my x-100. I also want to try the 50 because I am so impressed of the pictures in Flickr taken by APO 50 cron. But the very high price of the APO makes me think hard.

Therefore, my idea is to start with current 35mm cron. And may try some used 50 cron or summarit to see whether I like the 50 mm or not. After that I will decide which lens I will live with. 35 or 50, cron or lux. I wish I will use only one lens.

What are your suggestions? I never use M digital or rangefinder before except Fuji X100. My pictures are 50% portrait, 30% landscape or architecture and 20% walk-around/street.

I would suggest the 50/1.4 ASPH. as your firs lens. This will make your M-P substantially different from the X100. Also focusing and framing is optimized for the 50. All told a great way to immerse yourself in the world of the digital M.

 

[d2mini]

Regardless of what you had before, I just find that a 35mm is a great single lens.
When I first bought my M9, I received it just a few days before a trip to Europe. My first rangefinder and first leica. My only lens was the 35 'cron. It was the perfect choice because it let me shoot everything... landscape/city scape, street photography, portraits, etc. It's still my most used lens due to it's versatility.

 

[Fraser]

I would say either 35 or 50 summicron, if you don't like them easy to sell. I wouldn't go for voigtlander first because in my case anyway you'd always want to try leica better to get the leica bug out your system first!