Great camera and great lens >>>>

[ZdenekP]

I have shot my first film with my new MP equipped with 50/2 'cron. Ït iwas the first time I shot with RF camera. All 25 pictures (Fujichrom Superia 200, 24 exp.) are razor sharp and contrast, but not all of my pictures are good as to the composition. On the other hand it is not too surprising, as I haven't been shooting seriously for about 25 years. I hope this is the question of learning and training.
The lens, as far as I am able to judge, performs excellently, but the depth of field is greater than I expected. Due to that I didn't get the effects I wanted. Also the pictures are somewhat smaller than appeared in RF.
Do you have any suggestions about films, lenses and how to improve technique?
z.

 

[ChrisN]

Congratulations! That's a fantastic outfit for a first rangefinder! Keep practicing, and you will soon learn the framing.

Regarding the depth of field - have you studied the depth-of-field scale on your lens? Have a look at the attached image. The lens is focused at 5m. With the aperture set at f/8, the depth of field covers from 2.5m to infinity, as indicated on the dof scale markings (closer to the camera, with f/2 at centre and climbing to f/22 in either direction). I've found the scale to be a reasonable guide, but as discussed in another current thread here there are many variables to consider.

 

[Nachkebia]

This is bit of an offtopic, but I don`t get how come focus ring has no sliced lines to grab (I don`t know how else to explain)

 

[Ash]

you mean that bumpy area, like a serrated or raised groove thing like most lenses?

Well with a camera/lens combination like the above, you'll be using surgical gloves to avoid fingerprints on its shiny exterior, so the latex glove will give you all the grip you need 😀

EDIT: totally forgot, i think those lenses have a finger-tab that your index finger rests on to focus - much like the collapsible lenses in LTM mount. am I correct?

 

[Nachkebia]

Ash 😀 😀
no no seriusly!? I mean I wanted to buy Summilux 35mm and once I holded it was a let down 🙁

 

[ChrisN]

you mean that bumpy area, like a serrated or raised groove thing like most lenses?

Well with a camera/lens combination like the above, you'll be using surgical gloves to avoid fingerprints on its shiny exterior, so the latex glove will give you all the grip you need 😀

EDIT: totally forgot, i think those lenses have a finger-tab that your index finger rests on to focus - much like the collapsible lenses in LTM mount. am I correct?

Elementary, my dear Watson!

 

[Nachkebia]

Yap, they have finger-tab, but I did not like it, I mean common! you have to search for it every time! 🙂

 

[Ash]

Nah, I *shock-horror* got my grubby FSU-handling mitts all over a few Leica's at the RFF meet in June, and I think you get into a habit with the tab, or else, you're taking so many photo's, your finger is always on it.

 

[Nachkebia]

😀 Ash you are a funny guy! but you are not helping!! 😀 😀

 

[Ash]

😀 I honestly dont know WHAT you mean 😉

 

[ZdenekP]

Congratulations! That's a fantastic outfit for a first rangefinder! Keep practicing, and you will soon learn the framing.

Regarding the depth of field - have you studied the depth-of-field scale on your lens? Have a look at the attached image. The lens is focused at 5m. With the aperture set at f/8, the depth of field covers from 2.5m to infinity, as indicated on the dof scale markings (closer to the camera, with f/2 at centre and climbing to f/22 in either direction). I've found the scale to be a reasonable guide, but as discussed in another current thread here there are many variables to consider.

Thanks for reply, Chris. Of course I know the range of DOF of the lens. But to know something theoretically is not the same as to be able to use it in practice at all conditions. Anyway, I am a beginer.

I give you an example to be more specific. I want to take a picture of an object, and I am going to get the foreground or the background (or both) blurred (not so sharp as the object). I know how to set the aperture value but the light conditions are such that I cannot set the corresponding time because the the minimal time to be set is 1/1000 sec). I must set a different aperture. Doing this means that the DOF will change and I will get a different picture than I am going to get originally. I do not know how to solve that. Maybe I should use a filter to reduce light or wait for different light conditions? The longer focus lens would be also a solution.

Z.

 

[adayoncedawned]

Thanks for reply, Chris. Of course I know the range of DOF of the lens. But to know something theoretically is not the same as to be able to use it in practice at all conditions. Anyway, I am a beginer.

I give you an example to be more specific. I want to take a picture of an object, and I am going to get the foreground or the background (or both) blurred (not so sharp as the object). I know how to set the aperture value but the light conditions are such that I cannot set the corresponding time because the the minimal time to be set is 1/1000 sec). I must set a different aperture. Doing this means that the DOF will change and I will get a different picture than I am going to get originally. I do not know how to solve that. Maybe I should use a filter to reduce light or wait for different light conditions? The longer focus lens would be also a solution.

Z.

Mm, in terms of your exposure you actually have 3 variables to consider. 2 of them are quite flexible (exposure time & aperture). The third is film speed. You mentioned you were using a 200 ISO speed and you found yourself stopping the aperture down even after setting the maximum shutter speed (1/1000).

What you want is a slower speed film. Going down to 100 ISO will buy you one extra stop wider on the aperture (and a shallower DOF). Going down to 50 ISO wil get you even one more stop.

 

[ferider]

I give you an example to be more specific. I want to take a picture of an object, and I am going to get the foreground or the background (or both) blurred (not so sharp as the object). I know how to set the aperture value but the light conditions are such that I cannot set the corresponding time because the the minimal time to be set is 1/1000 sec). I must set a different aperture. Doing this means that the DOF will change and I will get a different picture than I am going to get originally. I do not know how to solve that. Maybe I should use a filter to reduce light or wait for different light conditions? The longer focus lens would be also a solution.
Z.

Hi Z,

this is a great outfit.
Carrying an ND4 or ND8 filter for that purpose is a good idea.

Best,

Roland.

 

[zuikologist]

Zdenek

You are right. If you are outside the parameters of your film/shutter/aperture combination to give correct exposure, the only way to "reduce" the amount of light is to use a slower film or use neutral density filters, or risk a little over-expousre of the film. Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude to over-exposure, up to 3 stops.

 

[ChrisN]

I give you an example to be more specific. I want to take a picture of an object, and I am going to get the foreground or the background (or both) blurred (not so sharp as the object). I know how to set the aperture value but the light conditions are such that I cannot set the corresponding time because the the minimal time to be set is 1/1000 sec). I must set a different aperture. Doing this means that the DOF will change and I will get a different picture than I am going to get originally. I do not know how to solve that. Maybe I should use a filter to reduce light or wait for different light conditions? The longer focus lens would be also a solution.

Z.

Hi Z

Yes - as mentioned by the two posters above, you have two more ways to control this and allow you to use a wider aperture - use a slower film (lower asa rating) and/or use neutral density filters to cut down the light - it's like putting sunglasses on your lens!

 

[Ronald M]

The 1/1000 top speed can be a limitation, but Leica photogs have been getting along with it for 75 years.

The easiest solution is use slower film. Buy 100 speed color neg or if you use black and white, Delta 100 is georgous at EI 50. Cut the development time 20% from normal. You will get lots of detail in the darks, and highlights will not be unprintable.

Another option is to use a neutral density filter which has no effect other than to put sunglasses over the lens. They come in various densities, with each stop represented by .3. In other words, .3 is one stop, .6 is two, .9 is three stops.

A 100 speed film in full sun exposure is 1/1000 at 5.6. A .9 ND filter will allow you to open to 2.0.

 

[Ronald M]

I might add you can purchase these as a gel , cut into a circle that fits the back sideof a UV or other filter, and hold it in place with a dab of tape.

Gells are easier to find than the filter, but vey delicate and can not be cleaned.

I used to gel infrared filters behind filters before I found enough 39 mm ir filters. It works fine. Case the filter and gel when not in use and it will last years.

DO NOT fingerprint the gel. Lee polyester ones are much more durable and I have some that survived a flood and are still in use. These can be cut to size also or mounted in a frame on the front of the lens.

 

[Todd.Hanz]

If it's a shallow depth of field your after, don't be afraid of shooting at F2-f4 with that lens and you'll get what your after. I shoot wide open all the time, Ilford Pan F and Fuji Reala rated at ISO 50 work great while staying within the top speed of 1/1000.

Todd

 

[peter_n]

😀 Ash you are a funny guy! but you are not helping!! 😀 😀

We're a little OT her but I'd like to answer. I also don't like the tabs on Leica wide-angle lenses because they feel so awkward. However I did find one lens with a tab that I could use, and it has a fairly large diameter, so the tab sticks out more. If you are having problems locating the tab, always set your lens at infinity after each shot, then the tab will always be in the same place. Setting the lens at infinity is good RF practice because you only have to focus the lens in one direction then stop; no focusing back and forth like with an SLR...

 

[ZdenekP]

Thank you all for advice. Slower speed film! Solution of almost all problems is simple.
Z.