paulfish4570
Veteran
i made a few shots with long tonal range to test the arista premium 400 (tri-x)/hc-110 combo. i'm thinking it did pretty well, dilution h (1+63), 72F, 1o minutes, 15 seconds. om-1n, zuiko 28/2.8:
i try to expose for the highlights, and let everything else fall where it may.
i try to expose for the highlights, and let everything else fall where it may.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Thanks for posting those and your developing info Paul. I've had a bottle of HC110 sitting on the shelf staring at me for some time and now the Rodinal is nearly gone I should use it.
These look good to my eye! Nice gentle flare from the Zuiko in the third shot.
These look good to my eye! Nice gentle flare from the Zuiko in the third shot.
Lauffray
Invisible Cities
Is this an HC 110 specific thing ? Isn't the conventional wisdom to expose for shadow and develop for highlights ?
rlouzan
Well-known
Is this an HC 110 specific thing ?
No
Isn't the conventional wisdom to expose for shadow and develop for highlights ?
Yes, the system mentioned by Paul was developed by the late Fred Picker , founder of Zone VI who wrote the books:
Zone VI workshop + The Fine Print
and the video Fred Picker's photographic technique: the negative
It's based on his own interpretation of the zone system.
Regards,
Robert
No
Isn't the conventional wisdom to expose for shadow and develop for highlights ?
Yes, the system mentioned by Paul was developed by the late Fred Picker , founder of Zone VI who wrote the books:
Zone VI workshop + The Fine Print
and the video Fred Picker's photographic technique: the negative
It's based on his own interpretation of the zone system.
Regards,
Robert
paulfish4570
Veteran
thanks, guys.
i hardly understand much of the zone system. the way i expose is just the way i have learned to do things through experience because it gives me the effects i want. i usually go with the sunny16 imbedded in my brain. sometimes i'll use my weston master V with incident dome to see if my brain is in the ball park. i did take an incident reading from the brightest stripes on the cedar chest, and extrapolated from there.
and yeah, i know it's the opposite of the standard "expose for shadows and develop for high lights." i like a little mystery in the shadows ...
keith, in PP i opened the shadows a bit to give a little more detail to my grandson and the rug, resulting in a tad o' flare. i just love how my two zuikos render ...
i hardly understand much of the zone system. the way i expose is just the way i have learned to do things through experience because it gives me the effects i want. i usually go with the sunny16 imbedded in my brain. sometimes i'll use my weston master V with incident dome to see if my brain is in the ball park. i did take an incident reading from the brightest stripes on the cedar chest, and extrapolated from there.
and yeah, i know it's the opposite of the standard "expose for shadows and develop for high lights." i like a little mystery in the shadows ...
keith, in PP i opened the shadows a bit to give a little more detail to my grandson and the rug, resulting in a tad o' flare. i just love how my two zuikos render ...
leicamshooter
Established
I only use HC-110 and Arista Premium as well. I tend to set temp at 75 degrees. Pour in the HC110 into the developing tank and let it sit for 13 min in a bath of water at 75 degrees. I don't do hardly any agitation. Works really well. Thanks for posting.
paulfish4570
Veteran
i twirl agitate gently (paterson kit), 10 secs to start, 5 seconds at the top of the minute thereafter ...
charjohncarter
Veteran
Paul, I like HC-110h for many reasons, but for tonal length with TriX (Arista Premium 400) you can't beat it. This image I didn't know how to meter so I said heck with it and just used the VCII on my Leica. I was still able to hold noon day sun images outside the window and deep shadow detail of the pictures on the desk inside:
paulfish4570
Veteran
beautiful example ...
steelydam
Established
Paul, they look great to me. Nice work.
paulfish4570
Veteran
thank you much.
charjohncarter
Veteran
This stand development is really just an excuse or an attempt to get an 'automatic developer.' Stoeckler (with two dots above the 'o'), developed a two bath method of automatic development (AD) for 35mm in the late 30s, this was for thick emulsions, then Thornton refined his formula in the 70-80s for our thinner emulsions. Later Thornton had many two bath (AD) and they were successful for roll film and in particular 35mm roll film. These methods were to extend the tonal range, BUT also to let middle tones and shadow develop to complete and normal contrast (which stand is not designed for). I have my own variation for these methods not that it is anything new I got it from someone on APUG. But it does almost do AD, you can get stops from 12 to 6 with reasonable contrast. Flat shots I bump my EI up to add contrast, but still I have to Photoshop the contrast a little. The wonders of these past pros makes it possible for us hobbyists to use TriX in almost any developer and get great shots. Now, TmaX films are a little harder.