Has anyone added a custom Flash system to their large format camera?

[Pirate]

As in the photograph I linked to in my other thread, I was wondering who here has added a Flash system to their Large Format cameras?

Any hints, tips, tricks... etc. you could share?

I would like to add a full grip flash to my 4x5 Crown Graphic.

 

[oftheherd]

I haven't done it, but I am guessing you are talking about a "saber" flash? I have recently seen both the mounts and flashes listed on ebay. I would guess you could order them and if there isn't already holes for mounting, you could have them made and screw in the mount, place the flash on it and plug it in to your lens.

If you are looking to add a modern flash, perhaps an "L" mount that would screw into your tripod mount, attach an electronic flash and attach it to your lens.

Having seen the photo you posted I am still betting on one of the original bulb flashes, and I think that ebay, or perhaps your local craigslist would be your best bet. Then of course, you need to look for flash bulbs as well. They are getting harder to get on ebay. I don't think anyone is making them any more.

 

[Pirate]

Thanks, I'm really hoping to mount a newer style flash to my Crown, something like a Metz. Nothing I want to rush, I think this will be a nice little project.

 

[bigeye]

Collecting pocket wizards and cheap flashes to build a small off-camera flash set. Thinking that it'll be fun to play around outside and indoors with wireless flash from the old shutter-in-lens cameras.

-Charlie

 

[JamesH]

Thanks, I'm really hoping to mount a newer style flash to my Crown, something like a Metz. Nothing I want to rush, I think this will be a nice little project.

Yes, the photo you referred to in that other thread, the guy was using a Metz.
I use a Metz 45 CT-1.
This is set up to sit to the left on the camera. No problem, the bracket can be flipped round to sit the flash on the other side.

These are great flashes. The head can be tilted up to 90° to bounce off of the ceiling, or swivelled round to bounce off of a wall, up to 180° to bounce off of the wall behind you!

Very powerful: GN 45. Recycles quick with 6AA batteries fitted.
Five auto positions or full manual.

You will need to have a PC socket on the lens (sync at all speeds).
Not sure about your 4x5, but your Speed 34 does not have this. It has two big pins sticking out of the lens barrel at about 1 o'clock viewed from the front. These are the flash sync pins. You would need some kind of adaptor.

James.

 

[johannielscom]

Yup. Like I said in the other thread, that's a Metz CT45-something attached to the Graflex. Since you will use the exposure computer thats between your ears any CT type will do.

Congrats on your Crown Graphic, Pirate! I never buckled up past a 6x9, briefly had a Speed Anniversary (3 1/4 x 4 1/4) but lacked the guts to cut sheet film to size, load it up, etc. so I sold it.

I'm looking forward to seeing any shots in the Large Format RF forum!

 

[JamesH]

... briefly had a Speed Anniversary (3 1/4 x 4 1/4) but lacked the guts to cut sheet film to size, load it up, etc. so I sold it.

It's not that hard to find. Some great Efke HERE.

Ilford still make some too, but you'd have to ship from UK or Germany.

Paper is interesting and easy to use under safe light.
Slow though. Ilford multigrade is about 12 iso.




James.

 

[Pico]

Custom flash? No, but on the Super Technika I've used modern hammer-head type flashes, Graflite bulb flash, and I have several Flash Tronics.

What would a custom flash be? If you have no flash mount on the camera in question, then you might look for a Graflex or Linhof mount. There are a lot of them out there.

Ever seen a Flash Tronic? It's a bulb flash (medium and Edison type) and uses no batteries.

 

[oftheherd]

It's not that hard to find. Some great Efke HERE.

Ilford still make some too, but you'd have to ship from UK or Germany.

Paper is interesting and easy to use under safe light.
Slow though. Ilford multigrade is about 12 iso.




James.

Freestyle also has it, and apparently for a little less, at http://www.freestylephoto.biz/191134-Efke-PL-100-M-iso-100-3.25-x-4.25-inches-50-sheets?cat_id=404

It isn't that hard to cut down 4x5 if you have a small paper cutter. I have been doing it for 9x12, but I think I am committed enough to using that format to just order a box or two.

 

[oftheherd]

...

You will need to have a PC socket on the lens (sync at all speeds).
Not sure about your 4x5, but your Speed 34 does not have this. It has two big pins sticking out of the lens barrel at about 1 o'clock viewed from the front. These are the flash sync pins. You would need some kind of adaptor

...

Adapters can be bought or made from parts. Just consider yourself lucky you have a shutter that has built in flash sync. I am sure you could cobble up something on any shutter, but some would be less fun than others.

 

[Pirate]

I purchased a pack of the 3x4 from Freestyle too. I didn't know it was not being produced anymore so I may just start buying it up... I bought the Panchromatic in a 50 sheet pack but will order some Ortho as well. Lot's of red brick buildings in Europe so I'm sure I could have fun with it.

 

[djonesii]

most modern shutters have the PC port .....

most modern shutters have the PC port .....

I have a metz 45 CT-1 that I use with my speed. I have a 210mm portrait lens in a copal, and that has a PC port. I use cheap chineese e-bay triggers, although there is nothing electrical in the shutter, I was worried about trigger voltage, so when testing the Metz on Nikon and Mamiya I used the trigger. I just carried the practice of the trigger forward to the LF, probably not necessary though.

I also have the stock 135mm lens, and it has the older plug style connection for flash, I went out and googled adapters, and they do exist, there is a company that specializes in cables, but I never did get one as I find the 135 too wide for the way that I shoot in the studio anyway.

When my converted polaroid, I do the same ....

Great big flash, gives plenty of light, I use eneloops in it, and it works pretty well. I just use the included bracket. Some other flash frame might get the head a bit closer to on axis, but I'm not too worried about that.

Dave

 

[Pirate]

I would not think voltage would have an issue in this. The sync port on the lens should only be making a closed connection when the shutter fires, thereby tripping the flash. There should be no voltage created by the lens. Am I mistaken in this line of thinking?

 

[oftheherd]

I would not think voltage would have an issue in this. The sync port on the lens should only be making a closed connection when the shutter fires, thereby tripping the flash. There should be no voltage created by the lens. Am I mistaken in this line of thinking?

I think you are correct. I think voltage only comes in to play when using a camera that talks to the flash to shut it down after sufficient light has been put on the scene. Apparently some newer digital as well as some of the older SLR didn't properly protect one part of the circuit from another. Or maybe it was the flash that didn't protect, or just had higher voltage from on camera to another. LF cameras lenses/shutters would never have been concerned with or known about the idea of a camera controlled flash.

 

[djonesii]

If you want to use the graflex shutter it is a bipost connector.

Paramount cord is the company, and the link is:

http://www.paramountcords.com/bipost.asp

I tend to agree with all the folks who say the voltage thing is only for modern cameras, but I have a method, and have not bothered to test another way. In the studio, it my method also lets me use mutiple flash with radio rather than optical trigger.

Dave

 

[Pico]

I would not think voltage would have an issue in this. The sync port on the lens should only be making a closed connection when the shutter fires, thereby tripping the flash. There should be no voltage created by the lens. Am I mistaken in this line of thinking?

All voltage comes from the flash, and typical large format lens' synchro mechanisms won't be hurt by any flash.

There are usually two flash synch modes on LF lenses. Neither are dependent upon any specific voltage. (By the book, only 3 volts are required to ignite the most difficult case - flashbulbs) X-synch fires when the shutter is wide-open. M-Synch typically fires the flash 1/50th of a second after the shutter is released. Unless you are using flashbulbs, M is not to be considered. Some lenses have more settings for bulb and electronic via a wheel in the lens to choose three settings, but you aren't going to need them.

 

[Pirate]

Got my Metz Mecablitz 60 CT-4 in the mail yesterday. It was missing one piece, the little block that holds the handle to the bottom frame.... kinda important, so I drove over the the Metz factory (20 minutes from me) and bought a new piece. I bought this used so it's not a big deal. This thing is freaking sweet!! The instruction manual has half a page dedicated to the "Don't Do This....... or it will cause blindness" stuff, referring to firing the flash too close to someones face, it talked about burning things up as well as damaging the eyes. Crazy.

The two front (bottom) brass bumpers (feet?) on the bottom of the body get in the way of the Metz base plate, so it doesn't fit square on the 3x4 Speed, but it fits perfectly on the 4x5 Crown... now I just need that lens board for the Crown. Time to contact that guy from ebay that makes these things and get one ordered, then to order that cable to hook on the front lens, and I'll be set!!! I love this stuff.

Did some test flashes with my Nikon D700 and they were perfect. Tested at 9 feet and 100 feet. Flawless!

 

[JamesH]

Got my Metz Mecablitz 60 CT-4 ...... Tested at 9 feet and 100 feet. Flawless!

I thought my "45" was powerful. I'd think you could start campfires with a "60"

Anyway, It sound like you're having LOTS of FUN.

CONTINUE.

 

[charjohncarter]

Not 4x5 but I have done it with a number of 6x6 cameras. I use the CyberSync triggers from Buff, and the trigger has a PC wire so that goes to the transmitter. The receiver has a plug/PC female so I can use a Flash with a PC wire or I have a small hot-shoe to PC converter for hot shoe only flashes. If you are going to use an on-board flash you probably only need to have a HS/PC converter and a PC wire. I like the Triggers because I can easily put the flash on a stand for off camera flash. Once you get it set and working it is really useful. But you do have to think, so maybe practice with a DSLR if you have one. Also, the leaf shutters are a dream with flash; you don't have to worry about maximum synch speeds.

 

[Pirate]

One of the best features I've seen on any flash (and on the back of this one) is a scale system for the manual setting. Dial in your ISO, scroll the other wheel around to the distance you're shooting, and it will give you the F-stop to use. I tested this on my Nikon D700 last night and it works like a charm. 6-feet away and 100-feet away, perfect.

And yes, it says in the instructions that it can burn things if they are too close when it goes off!