Has DX Coding changed?

Allen Gilman

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Oct 8, 2004
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I'm trying to change the DX coding on my film to fool the camera (which doesn't have a function to manually change ISO). So, I looked on the net to try to find any DX code charts to find out which blocks/positions to change on the film cartridge where the DX code is. Here's one chart I found:

http://www.bythom.com/dxcodes.htm

Problem is - I've got a roll of Tri-X here which shows a different DX coding than that given by this chart (I found another chart which gives the same figures as this chart so I'm assuming that it's correct). My Tri-x shows that it's blackened in positions 2,3, and 6. I played around a little and finally found the coding for 800ISO (scraped the paint off of position 2) so that positions 1,2,4, and 5 were exposed.

Have DX codes changed since this chart was made? And, if so, does anyone know or know of a resource where I can find out what the code is for 1000/1250/1600 ISO? Any help would be appreciated...
 
The chart on the second page seems to tally with my Superia. However, for Thom's page, the protruding cassete portion faces to the left while the new chart has the orientation of the cassette with the protruding part to the right.
 
Okay, the last chart is incorrect also. I'm looking at an 800ISO film cartridge and it shows the DX coding: 1,2,4,5. I'll keep looking.

Breakaway, the DX code can only occupy six positions (8 and 9 are to let the camera know that it's a 36 exp. roll of film rather than 24 and so on).
 
Has anybody found DX labels for 1000 or 1250? Porters sells 40,100,125,160, 200,400,800,1600,3200. I could label Tri-X at 800 or 1600 for diafine, but 1250 seems to be about right on.

I tried to take a film canister, cut it and scrape it to make me a label that would stay in the camera, but that didn't work. I've thought about temporarily wiring the dx contacts for 1250, but then I couldn't use other film.
 
XAos,

How bout using the labels for 800 and adjusting exposure compensation on your camera for +1/3 for 1000 ISO? Or buy labels for 1600 and set exp. comp. for -1/3 for 1250 ISO.
 
Olympus Stylus Epic is the one in question. It's auto everything, no exposure compensation. 1600 is probably good enough, 800 might be give better negatives though.
 
I tried this, using a scrap from a metal can as a "label" but it didn't work. I think it may have been using the clip at the bottom of the can for a contact to complete the circuit. I'm using plastic bulk canisters for my Tri-X.
 
XAos said:
I tried this, using a scrap from a metal can as a "label" but it didn't work. I think it may have been using the clip at the bottom of the can for a contact to complete the circuit. I'm using plastic bulk canisters for my Tri-X.

Should still work, since my local store also sells stick on DX labels. You might just try re-using some iso800 cans.
 
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