Haze removal went terribly---right!

dougcee

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I recently got a Steinheil Culminar 4.5 135mm lens from an online seller very cheap.
Only thing was it had bad haze. I tried some pictures and sure enough, pretty poor results. Also focus was so stiff it wanted to unscrew from the camera(LTM).
Anyhow I took it apart and cleaned the lenses only to find when re-assembled the haze came back just as before, the same experience many others have apparently had. Very discouraging!
Anyway I set all the stuff aside and let it sit out in the open air inside the house overnight. Next day I noticed the haze was gone and it looked good as new except a little harmless dust. Put it back together and it's still haze and fog free.
I'm really happy as now the lens looks virtually new inside and out. Also the cosmetics were excellent to begin with and I was able to loosen up the focusing action. Could the time the lenses sat unassembled and separate from the closed environment have had this results?
It looks like I may have just gotten lucky on this one so I probably won't tempt fate by trying this again. Just thought you all might find this interesting. :)
 
Congratulations. Let's make this thread about cleaning up lenses.

Congratulations. Let's make this thread about cleaning up lenses.

I decided to learn to clean haze and fungus too. I got the proper tools a lot cheaper than expected and jumped into it. Yesterday, I cleaned up the haze from my newly acquired Elmar 50/2.8 LTM, which was sold to me with a "Leica glow". Perfectly fine, it took less than 20 minutes. Then, I went for my Canon 50/1.2 LTM, which I thought was a paperweight because of the haze. Well, once cleanup, the lens is a true leica Noctilux type lens. Since it was already cleanup one year ago, I can do this every year. Yes, this lens get haze every year. It was faster than the Elmar.
 
Nice work the two of you! I'm always amused by the in denial term "Leica glow" for a hazy lens.
 
Pepe I did my teardown with improvised tools I scrounged. Don't think it would have been any easier with real tools, but it's best to use quality tools for sure.
 
That's good news , 'cuz sometimes it's wee bit more work , I'm in the process now with
a lens for my Fujica GL that's got me up to my neck in alligators ( no turning back ). So
Congrats , Peter
 
With my milky large format lenses I remove the glass, and take it to the kitchen sink. Dishwashing soap and a lot of water and gentle rubbing do a perfect job. I'd probably have freaked out over the idea in the past, but talking to Ken Ruth changed my attitude.

I've cleaned up dozens of lenses this way since I talked to Ken.
 
I use RONSONOL, not Zippo Lighter fluid

I use RONSONOL, not Zippo Lighter fluid

With the help of couple of videos on Youtube, I was able to do this. Tools were professional set clippers, screw, to remove the top leads, and set of rubber to screw and unscrew. Then FRY's provided the tweezers, all for less than $50. The Rodanol from 7-11 was $2.50. It is better than Zippo (same thing, but more expensive). I may be able to offer the services to our colleagues here beginning next years, after I retire from my job of 40 years.
 
Haze returned on my 35mm Canon Serenar. I clean it every time I use it. I have the process down to 5 minutes now, BUT I will try your fresh air approach. Thank you,
 
With my milky large format lenses I remove the glass, and take it to the kitchen sink. Dishwashing soap and a lot of water and gentle rubbing do a perfect job. I'd probably have freaked out over the idea in the past, but talking to Ken Ruth changed my attitude.

I've cleaned up dozens of lenses this way since I talked to Ken.
Makes sense though, the dishwashing liquid will make the surfaces very slippery and with running water, will offer much security against scratching the surface. I've cleaned a few focus screens this way (when they were filthy and it was absolutely necessary) for just this reason.
Cheers
Brett
 
Last lensese I've cleaned the haze out of were my VC 35mm f/1.7 Ultron and a 127mm f/4.7 Anastigmat Special. The Ultron is really easy once you figure out how it goes together. It had developed some calcium haze after it had gotten soaked somewhere back in 2012. Cleaned the oxidation out of the click-stop ball-bearing housing as well. Made a tonne of difference.

I need to work up the guts to clean the haze out of a 28mm f/6.3 Hektor one of these days.
 
Hmmm, but you joined a few weeks ago. Some of us have read a lot of posts over the years from people asking what they should do halfway through the "simple" and "easy" job they were tackling...

And others have reported some dreadful bodges found in cameras.

Regards, David
 
Makes sense though, the dishwashing liquid will make the surfaces very slippery and with running water, will offer much security against scratching the surface. I've cleaned a few focus screens this way (when they were filthy and it was absolutely necessary) for just this reason.
Cheers
Brett

Hey Brett,

Yes I have also cleaned countless focusing screens and fresnel lenses using the same procedure. Ken said "Don't be at all afraid, just do it." And of course being the Guru Photographic Equipment Conservationist Expert that he is, he was and is 100% correct. Only issue I've ever had, was when I dropped a 135mm Schneider Symmar Convertible lens (squirted out of my hand! as I was removing the front cell), and it fractured into hundreds of shards on the concrete garage floor. Won't do that again :eek: Luckily I didn't pay much for it.

002 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Hey Brett,

Yes I have also cleaned countless focusing screens and fresnel lenses using the same procedure. Ken said "Don't be at all afraid, just do it." And of course being the Guru Photographic Equipment Conservationist Expert that he is, he was and is 100% correct. Only issue I've ever had, was when I dropped a 135mm Schneider Symmar Convertible lens (squirted out of my hand! as I was removing the front cell), and it fractured into hundreds of shards on the concrete garage floor. Won't do that again :eek: Luckily I didn't pay much for it.

002 by Nokton48, on Flickr

That would be advertised on ebay as 'minor cleaning marks, no effect on image'
 
Ouch! Garage????????????????? Why cleaning or working on a lens in the garage? Why not a clean space with no dust in the air, and towels, yoga mats on the floor, and on the table?
One comment I read here is the use of water to clean the glass. Having a 50 year career in water and water chemistry, I wonder what water may do to the lens if not properly dried off. Fungus comes to mind. Just thinking loud.
 
Ouch! Garage????????????????? Why cleaning or working on a lens in the garage? Why not a clean space with no dust in the air, and towels, yoga mats on the floor, and on the table?
One comment I read here is the use of water to clean the glass. Having a 50 year career in water and water chemistry, I wonder what water may do to the lens if not properly dried off. Fungus comes to mind. Just thinking loud.

Clean dry cotton dries the elements completely. Never had any fungus??? All of my camera repair tools (I have quite a few) and my workbench, are in the garage. I've successfully cleaned dozens and dozens of LF lenses without any incidents like this. :rolleyes: And dust is not an issue, either. Really expensive 35mm lenses are another matter entirely, if I need to, I send them out (for example, recently the 58mm F1.2 MC Rokkor). I've done the same garage procedure with dozens and dozens of old Minolta MC Rokkors, and even the 50mm F1.2 RF Canon (before I sold it). The Canon I cleaned out several times, took twenty-thirty minutes each session.
 
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