vegard_dino
Established
Hello.
Hope some can help me......Taking photos with my dear Perkeo I today, and then, what....After taking a shot, winding the film to next, but, the indicating arrow for the shutter is not moving at all.....Hmm.
Some tip on what I can do? What has happend?
Thanks for looking and helping me out.
Hope some can help me......Taking photos with my dear Perkeo I today, and then, what....After taking a shot, winding the film to next, but, the indicating arrow for the shutter is not moving at all.....Hmm.
Some tip on what I can do? What has happend?
Thanks for looking and helping me out.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Hello.
Hope some can help me......Taking photos with my dear Perkeo I today, and then, what....After taking a shot, winding the film to next, but, the indicating arrow for the shutter is not moving at all.....Hmm.
Some tip on what I can do? What has happend?
Thanks for looking and helping me out.
Be sure you're not out of film. Remember you only get 12 exposures ... I've made that mistake before!
I don't know the Perkeo I model or how it differs from the Perkeo II with respect to the advance mechanism. I had my II not want to release the shutter on one exposure, and get into a lockout with the double exposure prevention stuff. So I tripped the shutter on the shutter itself, recocked it, and fired again, then the advance worked.
G
kuzano
Veteran
Perkeo 1 is very basic
Perkeo 1 is very basic
The ONLY automation in the Perkeo 1 is double shot prevention.
The 1 has no other automation. In fact, I pulled the hood off mine and removed the double shot prevention.
On a Perkeo 1, you use the ruby window on every frame advance, and you must cock the shutter manually. The only thing that is locked on Perkeo 1 is the ability to push the shutter button down on top of the camera if you have not wound the film forward (prevents double shots).
The SHUTTER Itself is not locked to prevent double shots. The button on top of the camera is the piece of the camera that locks with the double prevention. As mentioned you CAN do double exposures by using the shutter controls only.
Shooting work flow.
Shoot
Advance film using the ruby window (this unlocks the shutter button on top)
Set the aperture manually if changing with new shot.
Set the shutter speed manually
cock the shutter manually
Focus the front cell (scale focus / manual focus)
Compose
Shoot
Repeat for second shot
If you want to do a double exposure on the same frame of film, you can re-cock the shutter manually, but you cannot trip the shutter with the shutter button on top of the camera. Just in front of the body, near the folding struts is a threaded socket for a standard cable release. Using the standard cable release you can re-cock and trip the shutter as many times as you like.
I have owned two Perkeo II's which are generally the one you have to purchase to get the Color Skopar lens, but the automation on both of them failed me, and I could not find any one who works on the gear-work for the automation, just as I could never find anyone to work on the Automation of the Mamiya Six folders, which are all automated for film stop/count and double prevention.
I now have one Mamiya Automat 6 which I stripped all the automation from, and I found a Perkeo 1 with a Color Skopar lens in Compur shutter.
Both GREAT camera's.
Personally, I will never buy another old folder with Automation of any kind.
Perkeo 1 is very basic
The ONLY automation in the Perkeo 1 is double shot prevention.
The 1 has no other automation. In fact, I pulled the hood off mine and removed the double shot prevention.
On a Perkeo 1, you use the ruby window on every frame advance, and you must cock the shutter manually. The only thing that is locked on Perkeo 1 is the ability to push the shutter button down on top of the camera if you have not wound the film forward (prevents double shots).
The SHUTTER Itself is not locked to prevent double shots. The button on top of the camera is the piece of the camera that locks with the double prevention. As mentioned you CAN do double exposures by using the shutter controls only.
Shooting work flow.
Shoot
Advance film using the ruby window (this unlocks the shutter button on top)
Set the aperture manually if changing with new shot.
Set the shutter speed manually
cock the shutter manually
Focus the front cell (scale focus / manual focus)
Compose
Shoot
Repeat for second shot
If you want to do a double exposure on the same frame of film, you can re-cock the shutter manually, but you cannot trip the shutter with the shutter button on top of the camera. Just in front of the body, near the folding struts is a threaded socket for a standard cable release. Using the standard cable release you can re-cock and trip the shutter as many times as you like.
I have owned two Perkeo II's which are generally the one you have to purchase to get the Color Skopar lens, but the automation on both of them failed me, and I could not find any one who works on the gear-work for the automation, just as I could never find anyone to work on the Automation of the Mamiya Six folders, which are all automated for film stop/count and double prevention.
I now have one Mamiya Automat 6 which I stripped all the automation from, and I found a Perkeo 1 with a Color Skopar lens in Compur shutter.
Both GREAT camera's.
Personally, I will never buy another old folder with Automation of any kind.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Kuzano,
The local camera repair shop did a complete service on my Perkeo II ... it's working much more smoothly now, and the advance lockout glitch (that happened only once ...) has not recurred. The CLA cost me about $150 or so, was well worth it. The camera now works (and looks!) as if new. I found a nice, clean Voigtländer rangefinder to complement it too:
G
The local camera repair shop did a complete service on my Perkeo II ... it's working much more smoothly now, and the advance lockout glitch (that happened only once ...) has not recurred. The CLA cost me about $150 or so, was well worth it. The camera now works (and looks!) as if new. I found a nice, clean Voigtländer rangefinder to complement it too:

G
kuzano
Veteran
Glad you found service.
Glad you found service.
I saw that rangefinder when you posted it elsewhere. That's very fitting to the camera as Voigtlander is known to do well. It also has a base leg for triangulation that is about the longest one can find for these camera's.
I wish I had not had such bad luck with the II's I had previously. I've had a few 6X6 folders (Super Balda, etc) and the Perkeo is the most attractive and compact "pocket" folder I've personally held and shot.
You have a nice one.
I'd probably not shoot much medium format, but the Walmart about a mile from my house uses Fujifilm Labs for their "Send Out" lab. They truck the film both ways, and for a ten day wait and often as low as 84 cents a roll, I get my negatives professionally processed.
As long as they keep doing that for me (7 years now), I will be shooting 120.
Never lost a roll or a neg.
Glad you found service.
I saw that rangefinder when you posted it elsewhere. That's very fitting to the camera as Voigtlander is known to do well. It also has a base leg for triangulation that is about the longest one can find for these camera's.
I wish I had not had such bad luck with the II's I had previously. I've had a few 6X6 folders (Super Balda, etc) and the Perkeo is the most attractive and compact "pocket" folder I've personally held and shot.
You have a nice one.
I'd probably not shoot much medium format, but the Walmart about a mile from my house uses Fujifilm Labs for their "Send Out" lab. They truck the film both ways, and for a ten day wait and often as low as 84 cents a roll, I get my negatives professionally processed.
As long as they keep doing that for me (7 years now), I will be shooting 120.
Never lost a roll or a neg.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
It is indeed a lovely thing, and feels much more solidly built than the Balda Baldix. Which is a delightful camera too, in its own right. The Color Skopar lens on the Perkeo II is quite a bit more modern in its character than the Baltar lens on the Baldix. It is amazing just how small these cameras are for the negative size.
I've got the camera shop about 10 minutes away to do C41 for me, and I do the standard B&W at home. Not as cheap as a Walmart, but then I don't have to deal with Walmart.
I hope the OP has gotten his problem sorted.
G
I've got the camera shop about 10 minutes away to do C41 for me, and I do the standard B&W at home. Not as cheap as a Walmart, but then I don't have to deal with Walmart.
I hope the OP has gotten his problem sorted.
G
vegard_dino
Established
Thanks for the reply.
BUt, a stupid question, how do I trip the shutter?
BUt, a stupid question, how do I trip the shutter?
GaryLH
Veteran
Thanks for the reply.
BUt, a stupid question, how do I trip the shutter?
In Godfrey's picture u can c it at around the 11 o'clock position, just under the folding door struct. I u press the body shutter release linkage u should be able too c the linkage move against the real shutter release coming off the leaf shutter body.. Since it appears that double exposure prevention is active, do not force the pressing if the shutter release mechanism on the body. If the shutter is properly cocked, then pressing down on that lever from the leaf shutter body will release the shutter.
Gary
GaryLH
Veteran
GaryLH
Veteran
Kuzano,
The local camera repair shop did a complete service on my Perkeo II ...
G
Do they do bellows replacement? The bellows on one of mine is getting a bit worn.
Gary
vegard_dino
Established
THanks!!!
The shutter is working, it is released now.
But, one more thing...The indicating arrow on right side is not moving/pointing forword when I wind to the next frame.
Any tip?
The shutter is working, it is released now.
But, one more thing...The indicating arrow on right side is not moving/pointing forword when I wind to the next frame.
Any tip?
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Kuzano,
The local camera repair shop did a complete service on my Perkeo II ... it's working much more smoothly now, and the advance lockout glitch (that happened only once ...) has not recurred. The CLA cost me about $150 or so, was well worth it. The camera now works (and looks!) as if new. I found a nice, clean Voigtländer rangefinder to complement it too:
![]()
G
Do they do bellows replacement? The bellows on one of mine is getting a bit worn.
Gary
No, my bellows is in excellent condition. I don't know if Fred has access to those parts, I can ask next time I speak to him. That will be late next month.
G
Godfrey
somewhat colored
THanks!!!
The shutter is working, it is released now.
But, one more thing...The indicating arrow on right side is not moving/pointing forword when I wind to the next frame.
Any tip?
What indicating arrow are you referring to? I'm looking at a Perkeo I picture and I can't see an indicating arrow.
vegard_dino
Established
I am talking about the small arrow in the peep vindow on the right side, top of the camera.
That arrow was pointing forward when the film was wind forwored to the next frame and backwords when the photo had been taken.
That arrow was pointing forward when the film was wind forwored to the next frame and backwords when the photo had been taken.
hanskerensky
Well-known
It is this arrow :

vegard_dino
Established
YES!
Thas the arrow I am talking about.
Now it will not turn, will not point to the front after the exposure was done and a the film wind to the next frame.
Thas the arrow I am talking about.
Now it will not turn, will not point to the front after the exposure was done and a the film wind to the next frame.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
YES!
Thas the arrow I am talking about.
Now it will not turn, will not point to the front after the exposure was done and a the film wind to the next frame.
Ah, didn't see that. Well, if the camera is working otherwise, it seems the double-exposure prevention interlock might need a cleaning and lube.
G
GaryLH
Veteran
No, my bellows is in excellent condition. I don't know if Fred has access to those parts, I can ask next time I speak to him. That will be late next month.
G
Thanks..for the help. I am in no hurry. My bellows are still usable, but bottom corner area opposite the door, it is getting thin and the inner and outer material has just started to separate.
Gary
hanskerensky
Well-known
YES!
Thas the arrow I am talking about.
Now it will not turn, will not point to the front after the exposure was done and a the film wind to the next frame.
Well, i had the same problem with my Perkeo I.
If you want to know what is involved to solve that, have a look at my Flickr set about it :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29504544@N08/sets/72157619237791537/
Hope you get it going again !
vegard_dino
Established
Hi.
Thank you for the help and the link.
I will start working with it today
Will come back with information on how it goes.
Thank you for the help and the link.
I will start working with it today
Will come back with information on how it goes.
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