how do u repair stiff focus on kiev?

nzeeman

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when i focus my kiev about 70 degrees rotating is easy then next 70 degrees is totaly impossible with that little screw for right arm so i must rotate it like on every other camera the it comes easy part again. anyone have any idea??
also on a flea market i found few very nice kievs but with broken shutter and curtains. is it hard to repair? did anyone tried?
 
im not so sure in my repairing skills. i tried few times with zenits but everything was finished with failure. now i only do curtains speed up/slow down and vf/rf adjustments.
so i was wondering if kiev is easier than ltm cameras?
 
honestly I never thought of putting my 2A apart, it operates smoothly in every regard. I've got this Kiev-4 up for sale that works well, so I won't tear it apart either. But if i find any broken kiev, i'll sure put a hand on them!

The Kievs are way more complex than russian LTM cameras, however if all is well explained (like on the Kiev Survival site) it's just a matter of following the instructions correctly (and having some basic repairman skills) :)
 
darkkavenger said:
Oh my! Ian!! I hope that's not the only story of your life ! :D ;)

Well Max, it's the story of my life with Zenits - a tale of broken bodies and battered hearts!

The other stories can only be told after 10pm in a specially licenced cinema :D !
 
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:D Allright we'll *stick* to thz Zenits then ;) I amused myself once to take apart and clean my dad's Zenit EM. It was fun and wasn't a failure, though all we noticed was that the foam holding the pentaprism was dead and that the mirror needed to be replaced. But now he's being a "good boy" with his Pentacon Six and his Zorki-6 :) (too many sixes in this story) ;)
 
So it's true! Young people today think of nothing but Six! Four murdered Zenits accuse me in my dreams, rather like Peter Lorre in "M"... Oh the guilt! The shame! And as for that FED 5 that had to go and live in the dustbin....:D
 
darkkavenger said:
*smiles paternally at his little cameras* I hope they can't read what you say! :D

I hear them calling in the night; the tearful "thunk" of bewildered shutters as they cry out "Daddy, why did you do it? Was it because we weren't Nikons?". Little ones, don't blame me! I was trying to upgrade you! To help you to a better life!

Except for those I dropped :D .
 
nzeeman said:
im not so sure in my repairing skills. i tried few times with zenits but everything was finished with failure?

Just another reason to continue a few times more. One of the current master repairmen of Contax, with whom I had the honour of exchanging several mails, told me once about the many Kievs he broke until he came to grips with them.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
darkkavenger said:
Hah! Thanks! I'm not wearing my leather outfit though! Maybe next time! ;)

It is not about your leather, but your sharp facial expression.
 
Ruben...what a sexy...camera.

nzeeman, I repaired a kiev with broken shutter ribbon on one side. It is NOT easy, but it is doable. It needs a lot of patience, it needs new shutter ribbon material, and it needs appropiate tools. Tensioning the shutter after ribbon is replaced can be done with a small screwdriver on the right hand side but don't get stressed if the small tensioning screw escapes a few times before you manage to do this. I 'lost it' (i e lost the tension) at least 50 times myself. When you open it up, you will see what I'm talking about.

The Kievs and Contaxes are module-based cameras. RF module, shutter module, meter module, everything is organized in big functional modules that can be separated relatively easily.

Cleaning out the helicoid for smooth focus is somewhat easier, than shutter ribbon replacement. If that is the problem. You will have to remove the face of the camera, the chrome plating around the lens; one screw is hidden under the leatherette where there's a 'bump', close to the lens opening, above the shutter delay lever. If you have a kiev with meter, this removal might get somewhat complicated. Then you have to remove the screws that hold the ring where the distances are engraved. To get the helicoid out, you probably will need to losen the screws of the rangefinder mechanism/unit (where the little focus wheel is located). Mark the infinite position before you do this, on the two wheels that are coupled (one on the rf module, the other one on the camera body).
In general, try to follow the instructions on the website shown above.
Clean the helicoid, both parts, with a tissue or such, and don't lube (or maybe lube it only by putting some thin oil on your thumb and massaging it on part of the helicopid, rotation will take care of distributing this. But use just a tiny bit!!)
Before putting back together, clean the vf-rf windows from inside. Be careful, don't rub too hard.
The focus wheel itself might also have collected lots of finger grease and hair and dust and such, inside, so it can't properly rotate. You can clean that too, but be careful with the small rotating lens.

It might be that something is deformed inside the helicoid, e.g. somebody forced a lens to couple onm it in a wrong position, and that's why you get a sometimes-easy-sometimes-hard focusing. In that case, try to find a replacement.

Good luck.
 
I lubed helicoid of my 4A with silicon grease. The lubricant makes the action smoother and it doesn't appear to freeze at -30C.
 
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