matti
Established
This is wonderful. I developed my first roll of Efke 25 tonight and I was impressed as soon as I cracked open the film spiral. I could see a meter away that this was something else. The tri-x and ilford pictures that I have been taking looks gritty and dull compared to this.
It even works straight out of the scanner, without any Photoshop curves (ok, I know of course the scanner puts some curves on it).
I developed it for 17 mins in 1:100 Calbe R09 (a Rodinal-like).
Can I expect the same sort of tones from the other Efke films? I can not use a 25-film that often here in Sweden...
And please, is it just that I have failed all my exposures until now (not that unlikely, as I'm such a neophyte), or is this film really the best? I mean, this is what B&W should look like, isn't it? I mean the tones and light, the pictures of my patient model on the test roll are not that revolutionary.
Check out the test shots and tell me that this can be done with tri-x (as I have 30 rolls in the fridge
). Maybe all pictures look better when spring is getting closer?
/matti
Oh, and one more thing about efke. I put a film piece in the fixer to check that it was fresh. And it cleared during the five seconds I agitated the film box! Anyone else saw this? (I used 8 mins just to be sure thought...)
It even works straight out of the scanner, without any Photoshop curves (ok, I know of course the scanner puts some curves on it).
I developed it for 17 mins in 1:100 Calbe R09 (a Rodinal-like).
Can I expect the same sort of tones from the other Efke films? I can not use a 25-film that often here in Sweden...
And please, is it just that I have failed all my exposures until now (not that unlikely, as I'm such a neophyte), or is this film really the best? I mean, this is what B&W should look like, isn't it? I mean the tones and light, the pictures of my patient model on the test roll are not that revolutionary.
Check out the test shots and tell me that this can be done with tri-x (as I have 30 rolls in the fridge
). Maybe all pictures look better when spring is getting closer?/matti
Oh, and one more thing about efke. I put a film piece in the fixer to check that it was fresh. And it cleared during the five seconds I agitated the film box! Anyone else saw this? (I used 8 mins just to be sure thought...)
Attachments
S
Socke
Guest
Looks realy good, I was undecided if I try some to redo some shots my father has taken here in the late 40s early 50s on Addox and Peruz 15 and 18 Din B/W. Your pictures remind me how those pictures look after I scanned them.
egpj
50 Summilux is da DEVIL!
Your efke post is really interesting. I have been thinking about straying from Ilford to try some of it. Sort of scary though, straying away from such a faithful woman. I love PanF 50 and always seem to get deep rich blacks and vibrant whites that still retain detail. Post more efke shots when you get the chance.
tetrisattack
Maximum Creativity!
Wow, how timely! I've just tried my own first roll of Efke 25, and I found it to be quite interesting as well! I developed in Rodinal 1:50.
Half of the roll was just test shots of my deck, but I found that the film, at about three feet, was able to resolve the texture of pine needles.
One thing I noticed is that the film halates like crazy, highlights tend to get ugly and blocked pretty fast. The box says something like, "For maximum highlight separation expose at ISO 50 and use the following development times..." which is something I'll try on the next roll.
Here's my sample:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=30612
Half of the roll was just test shots of my deck, but I found that the film, at about three feet, was able to resolve the texture of pine needles.
One thing I noticed is that the film halates like crazy, highlights tend to get ugly and blocked pretty fast. The box says something like, "For maximum highlight separation expose at ISO 50 and use the following development times..." which is something I'll try on the next roll.
Here's my sample:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=30612
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
I have to stop looking at thes kinds of images. Now I will have to find another place to live so I can set up a darkroom. :bang:.
Beautiful stuff, gents!
Rob(that's me--green with envy )
Beautiful stuff, gents!
Rob(that's me--green with envy
)Lemures-Ex
Jared S
I've been developing this in Diafine shot at iso 40 and 50 for a few weeks now and the results are wonderful. I don't have a film scanner but I will try to scan some at work tomorrow...
Jared
Jared
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Just what I need ... yet another film to try. Sigh. Thanks matti and tetris. I've gotta believe Rodinal is a perfect developer for this film.
Lemures-Ex
Jared S
For anyone that lives in the SF Bay area: Looking Glass Photo in Berkeley sells Efke KB25 in 35mm and 120mm.
Jared
Jared
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Hey there Matti,
First, I'm glad that you got some results with which you are so happy. That's terrific. And it's a great feeling, for sure.
Having said that...your scans, as are, look like you have overexposed your film. There is little in the way of shadows. Your highlights are actually well controlled, though.
Finally, whatever it is you like out of Efke, I am sure you can get out of another film. The grain will look different and the curve will be a bit different, but overall you can get pretty close. You just need to get your process calibrated and setup.
allan
First, I'm glad that you got some results with which you are so happy. That's terrific. And it's a great feeling, for sure.
Having said that...your scans, as are, look like you have overexposed your film. There is little in the way of shadows. Your highlights are actually well controlled, though.
Finally, whatever it is you like out of Efke, I am sure you can get out of another film. The grain will look different and the curve will be a bit different, but overall you can get pretty close. You just need to get your process calibrated and setup.
allan
Gordon Coale
Well-known
I don't think there is another film as fine grained as Efke 25.
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
I have a roll of APX 25 from a member here (stuff's like GOLD, I tell you)...I was pondering trying Efke 25 until he sent me that. I still haven't shot it. I'm pondering what to shoot with it at the moment. I doubt I'm going to find any ever again so I'm making it a much bigger decision than it really needs to be.
peterc
Heretic
I couldn't agree more. I have seven rolls of KB25 (repackaged as Maco UP25plus) waiting for some brighter days.matti said:
Peter
kaiyen
local man of mystery
I just shot several rolls of APX25 and R25 (medium format) as a comparison. Initial impressions are very favorable for the R25 - I think it's smoother than the APX25 and creamier.
I will put up some tests on the community blog this week.
allan
I will put up some tests on the community blog this week.
allan
sockeyed
Well-known
Efke 25 is a beautiful emulsion with invisible grain and a classic look. Images almost have a liquid quality. Although I've only shot 2 rolls (and one is hanging up to try as I type), I'm already in love with it.
I've attached a couple of samples at medium resolution.
I've attached a couple of samples at medium resolution.
Attachments
Hibbs
R.I.P. Charlie
Nice shots sockeyed...is there anywhere in Vancouver that carries Efke? The reason I ask is that I have a Serb friend that will be returning home for vacation and is willing to bring me back some 120.
~Hibbs
~Hibbs
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Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
I may try some Efke, then. I plan to make an order at J&C for some films for both my Speedex and the Canon soon...I'll make sure to order some.
matti
Established
Thanks for the comments!
When I was a kid I went with the axiom to stay with one film (Tri-x). But now when I am old ennough to decide myself I find that I learn something from every new film/developer I try .
Allan, maybe I should just expose my other films a bit more. Seriously, I think I often underexpose. And if I just touch the curves in Photoshop these pictures will have some deep shadows. But the negs look quite dark, could it be that the water we have is very soft? I read somewhare that Rodinal was sensitive towards that.
Jared, I'd like to look at some shots developed in Diafine. It's a nice thing to be able to develop different films at the same time.
tetrisattack, I didn't notice any strong halation. But maybe this is what gives the kind of "glow", I like about it
/matti
When I was a kid I went with the axiom to stay with one film (Tri-x). But now when I am old ennough to decide myself I find that I learn something from every new film/developer I try
.Allan, maybe I should just expose my other films a bit more. Seriously, I think I often underexpose. And if I just touch the curves in Photoshop these pictures will have some deep shadows. But the negs look quite dark, could it be that the water we have is very soft? I read somewhare that Rodinal was sensitive towards that.
Jared, I'd like to look at some shots developed in Diafine. It's a nice thing to be able to develop different films at the same time.
tetrisattack, I didn't notice any strong halation. But maybe this is what gives the kind of "glow", I like about it
/matti
matti
Established
kaiyen said:
Allan, I think you are right. I have been trying things a bit randomly and need to calibrate my setup, from exposure to scanning. When I look at the scans of my earlier tries, I find it hard to pinpoint what to change to get a different result. Often I don't even know what I don't like about the scanned image. (Hell I often even think I like it, that was before I saw the efke-shots, of course.
) I loaded the camera with some Tri-x and am planning on exposing it at 400 (That's a new one ) I have some D76 to mix up. Then what? (I probably should reread some really basic book about this. Maybe I'll understand it better now than when I was 14...)/matti
