Chuck A
Chuck A
I just bought an Industar 61 LD. I really like the lens and the click stops on the aperture. Focus is accurate and it is sharp but the focus has a spot where it gets harder to turn and then is smooth again. It is about half way through the focus range. I could probably send the lens back but for a $20 lens it is not worth the hassle.
Anyway, is this a common thing and is there anyone on the forum who does cleaning that could look at it and get it focusing smoothly? I don't know how much it would cost to clean it but is it worth spending the extra money on it?
Anyway, is this a common thing and is there anyone on the forum who does cleaning that could look at it and get it focusing smoothly? I don't know how much it would cost to clean it but is it worth spending the extra money on it?
Didier
"Deed"
I had the same problem with the same lens. I relubed it following Matt Dentons tutorial.
Didier
Didier
Last edited:
P
pshinkaw
Guest
I have heard that you can disassemble the lens, replace the helical lubricant with a valve lapping compound, and then work the focusing ring back-and-forth while watching a long movie. After grinding down the rough spots, disassemble the lens again, clean out the abrasive mixture and replace with lubricant.
I have not done this myself, but I have a Nikkor lens that had this treatment 4 years ago and it has worked as smoothly as new since then.
-Paul
I have not done this myself, but I have a Nikkor lens that had this treatment 4 years ago and it has worked as smoothly as new since then.
-Paul
Kragmeister
Greg Urban
It is probably just dried lubricant. I'd relube it, or at the very least put some lighter fluid into the helical and work it in to spread around the existing grease. I usually do that before tearing a lens down for a relube and it usually takes care of the problem.
Later,
Greg
Later,
Greg
Chuck A
Chuck A
Kragmeister said:
Greg,
Where exactly are you putting the lighter fluid and how do you keep it from getting on the elements?
I really don't want to tear the lens down myself. I have never done something like this before and am fearful of screwing it up.
cbass
Nutmegger
Another vote for the Matt Denton tutorial. The process is surprisingly easy and takes about 30 minutes. I have re-lubed two I-61s and an I-26 using the tutorial, while replacing the original grease with lithium grease from a bike shop. Worked great.
fidget
Lemon magnet
DIY for me too.
Matt Denton's instructions are easy to follow. If you mess it up you could still post it to be done by the pros, or put up with the firm spot whilst you buy a cheap I61 for a spot of practice...
Matt Denton's instructions are easy to follow. If you mess it up you could still post it to be done by the pros, or put up with the firm spot whilst you buy a cheap I61 for a spot of practice...
Kragmeister
Greg Urban
On the I-61 I squirted a little lighter fluid between the focus ring and lens barrel, then vigorously worked the focus ring. I set it down on it's base on a paper towel just incase there was too much. Really, only a drop is needed to soften things up. In my case I had none leach into the iris.
Later,
Greg
Later,
Greg
Spyderman
Well-known
I-61 was the first lens that I relubed. I feared a lot, but it turned out quite easy. The DIY tutorial helped me a lot. I have done also my Jupiter-9 since then, and J-9 is said to be one of the most difficult FSU lenses to clean. The I-61 as well as J-9 are now smooth as never. Give the DIY way a try...
Xmas
Veteran
Chuck A
The simplest thing to do is ignore it, it should not get worse, it is pretty typical of Su and EGe lens, after ten years.
The simplest process is to buy
- set of watchmakers screw drivers
- cotton waste sticks
- can of Zippo lighter fluid
- PTFE liquid applicator (Tandy's)
- ladies nail varnish
- deep tray 8x10" photo tray or tea tray
- 3" pressure sensitive tape
Matt Denton recommends a full strip but it is easier to only remove the rear ring, this only needs undoing the three screws, and then only remove some of the grease.
First place the lens in a deep tray, because the screws are small and dont need to be dropped unto the lounge deep pile carpet. Then remove the paint sealing the three screws which secure the lens register ring to the lens, pick off the paint with the smallest screw driver. Then remove the three screws stick them to the pressure sensitive tape, and then remove the ring and run the lens out to mimium focus distance. Matts site has nice photographs of the ring to remove.
This provides enough access to the helicod to remove some fraction of the congealed grease, by wetting the cotton waste stick with Zippo fluid and wiping off any accessible grease with the stick. Use lots of sticks until the exposed helicod is clean, dont let any fluid penetrate, there is no reson to risk Zippo fluid ingress, into the lens. Also remove any grease from the lens register ring.
When the helicod is clean apply a two or three drips to each helicod thread at the innermost end of the threads you can reach with the PTFE applicator, you could try one drop per thread to start. Then work the lens focus back to infinity and out to close focus five times, the near focus stop should still stop the lens unscrewing past closest focus. This should clear the tight spot! the PTFE will work inwards and mix with the hardened grease, that you cannot reach.
If it does not clear the tight spot - reclean the exposed helicod thread with Zippo on cotton waste sticks as before and repeat to five times back and forward step.
If the tight spot vanishes still remove any grease which may have worked out of the helicod and dont apply any more PTFE.
Then replace the lens register ring, the screws recess should face out, to allow the screw heads to be recessed, then replace the three screws which secire the ring. They are not auto lug nuts and do not need to be tight merely snug, then seal the screws from working lose with nail varnish, if the ring has been cleaned with Zippo the nail varnish should adhere. It only needs a dab of varnish between the screw and the ring to stop the screws from coming undone.
This is a simpler process than Matt recommends but should still work.
Your lens should really perform you should not see its limits even with a slow B&W or slow slide film on a sturdy tripod.
I'd live with the tight spot, and only if it really impedes your photography bother with the PTFE and Zippo. The PTFE liquid wont migrate like mineral oil and ia a good long term cure. If you really like the lens then Matts process is the professional way but I'd not bother myself.
Noel
The simplest thing to do is ignore it, it should not get worse, it is pretty typical of Su and EGe lens, after ten years.
The simplest process is to buy
- set of watchmakers screw drivers
- cotton waste sticks
- can of Zippo lighter fluid
- PTFE liquid applicator (Tandy's)
- ladies nail varnish
- deep tray 8x10" photo tray or tea tray
- 3" pressure sensitive tape
Matt Denton recommends a full strip but it is easier to only remove the rear ring, this only needs undoing the three screws, and then only remove some of the grease.
First place the lens in a deep tray, because the screws are small and dont need to be dropped unto the lounge deep pile carpet. Then remove the paint sealing the three screws which secure the lens register ring to the lens, pick off the paint with the smallest screw driver. Then remove the three screws stick them to the pressure sensitive tape, and then remove the ring and run the lens out to mimium focus distance. Matts site has nice photographs of the ring to remove.
This provides enough access to the helicod to remove some fraction of the congealed grease, by wetting the cotton waste stick with Zippo fluid and wiping off any accessible grease with the stick. Use lots of sticks until the exposed helicod is clean, dont let any fluid penetrate, there is no reson to risk Zippo fluid ingress, into the lens. Also remove any grease from the lens register ring.
When the helicod is clean apply a two or three drips to each helicod thread at the innermost end of the threads you can reach with the PTFE applicator, you could try one drop per thread to start. Then work the lens focus back to infinity and out to close focus five times, the near focus stop should still stop the lens unscrewing past closest focus. This should clear the tight spot! the PTFE will work inwards and mix with the hardened grease, that you cannot reach.
If it does not clear the tight spot - reclean the exposed helicod thread with Zippo on cotton waste sticks as before and repeat to five times back and forward step.
If the tight spot vanishes still remove any grease which may have worked out of the helicod and dont apply any more PTFE.
Then replace the lens register ring, the screws recess should face out, to allow the screw heads to be recessed, then replace the three screws which secire the ring. They are not auto lug nuts and do not need to be tight merely snug, then seal the screws from working lose with nail varnish, if the ring has been cleaned with Zippo the nail varnish should adhere. It only needs a dab of varnish between the screw and the ring to stop the screws from coming undone.
This is a simpler process than Matt recommends but should still work.
Your lens should really perform you should not see its limits even with a slow B&W or slow slide film on a sturdy tripod.
I'd live with the tight spot, and only if it really impedes your photography bother with the PTFE and Zippo. The PTFE liquid wont migrate like mineral oil and ia a good long term cure. If you really like the lens then Matts process is the professional way but I'd not bother myself.
Noel
w3rk5
Well-known
I followed Matt's way. I actually take an old toothbrush and some Dawn dish soap and scrub the grease from the parts. Then I let it air dry and relube with some white lithium grease. They all came out as smooth as butta. Good luck on yours. 
Chuck A
Chuck A
Thanks for all the help folks. I will have to get the nerve up to give it a try.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Another source of info on FSU lenses from closer to home.
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm
Generally all that is required is a relube.
Kim
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm
Generally all that is required is a relube.
Kim
comp_wiz101
Compulsive Tinkerer
It helps if you take photos during each step.... one of the few things I do with my Digital!
derevaun
focus free
I had a Super Takumar with radioactive yellowing and a tight spot in the focusing. I placed it in the summer sun for a week to fix the former, and the heat apparently fixed the latter too.
If you do decide to "go in," I'd recommend against the Radio Shack synthetic lube gel. It's just too thick for comfortable focusing with the FSU lenses, IMHO. Lithium grease has its dangers, but a little bit is plenty and the I-61, a great lens, still isn't necessarily a lifetime investment. Good luck!
If you do decide to "go in," I'd recommend against the Radio Shack synthetic lube gel. It's just too thick for comfortable focusing with the FSU lenses, IMHO. Lithium grease has its dangers, but a little bit is plenty and the I-61, a great lens, still isn't necessarily a lifetime investment. Good luck!
comp_wiz101
Compulsive Tinkerer
I used a petroleum based grease... I had some very, very thick bearing grease, so I "watered" it down with a thin petrol oil. I worked it until I got the consitancy I wanted. Only takes a little, and I have an I-61, I-22, and a Ricohflex TLR that all turned out buttery smooth. This method has also been useful for greasing the heavier winding gears when I do my little CLAs on my cameras.
Chuck A
Chuck A
I tried Noel's way that was written out above and it worked. The lens is now smooth. Thanks for all of the help.
Xmas
Veteran
Chuck
Congratulations, I hope you have confidence to attempt future maintenance, the Ru kit frequently needs it.
When I tried the 61LD even with a slow chrome film my technique was limiting performance, i.e. I'd needed to have a tripod at f5.6-11. I normally wrap around a post or tree for stability even at /125 for the pictures I take...
I apologise I omitted to ask you to take digital cam shots of your procedure and publish, I don't have a digcam or scanner.
The only problem that might remain would be sand in the helicod, but while this occured frequently with Ju gear I've not seen it with the Ru equipment. It cannot be the seals or the care of the previous owners, perhaps the grease keeps it out?
Enjoy your new toy.
Noel
Congratulations, I hope you have confidence to attempt future maintenance, the Ru kit frequently needs it.
When I tried the 61LD even with a slow chrome film my technique was limiting performance, i.e. I'd needed to have a tripod at f5.6-11. I normally wrap around a post or tree for stability even at /125 for the pictures I take...
I apologise I omitted to ask you to take digital cam shots of your procedure and publish, I don't have a digcam or scanner.
The only problem that might remain would be sand in the helicod, but while this occured frequently with Ju gear I've not seen it with the Ru equipment. It cannot be the seals or the care of the previous owners, perhaps the grease keeps it out?
Enjoy your new toy.
Noel