IR film

J

jpa66

Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
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Just wondering if there is any IR film currently being produced that you can shoot at an iso of at least 50. I love IR film, but refuse to use a tripod to shoot with it. If anyone has had any luck shooting new IR at "high speed" ( said facetiously ), please let me know.

JP
 
You can use Efke IR820 at 25 with a 25 red filter, not much IR effect but that's up to you. I do use a Hoya R72 filter too, it is shot a EV .5 so tripod is necessary. I did this last week with the Hoya filter:

4376682400_6ae1758d55.jpg
 
charjohncarter said:
You can use Efke IR820 at 25 with a 25 red filter, not much IR effect but that's up to you. I do use a Hoya R72 filter too, it is shot a EV .5 so tripod is necessary. I did this last week with the Hoya filter:

4376682400_6ae1758d55.jpg
Click to expand...

Carter,
Great photo! Even though I'm wondering if the IR effect can still be had at faster iso speeds, I am curious as to how you developed the film.
 
Rollei Infrared 400 is considerably more IR sensitive (in sunlight around ISO 15-25 with a 690nm filter, where Efke is down at ISO 1-2) and has finer grain.
 
To answer the question. You probably could shoot at the higher ISO and then pull process, resulting in a flat negative, which would then require compensation when printing or scanning.

Otherwise, no. A slower ISO is something that you accept when shooting with b/w infrared film. Even at ISO 25, you're still shooting in daylight at f/16 at 1/30 or f/8 at 1/60 or f/5.6 at 1/125. You should be able to hold a camera steady at those speeds.
 
jpa66 said:
Carter,
Great photo! Even though I'm wondering if the IR effect can still be had at faster iso speeds, I am curious as to how you developed the film.
Click to expand...

I don't know about faster ISO/EV but I use .5 or .365. I,if a half shade scene, do the old expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. That sounds nutty because I never use a meter with Efke IR820. On the one below I think I exposed at F11 and 7-8 seconds. There is a fierce reciprocity failure after one second with this film so it is almost helpful because you almost can't over expose the shadows and even the highlights stop exposing:

4376682576_4b9dc51e36.jpg
 
So it's pretty much what I expected - there's no comparable IR film in speed to HIE. When the weather warms up around here ( like maybe in July... ) I just may try some of the new stuff, and break down and use a tripod.

Carter: the second photo is even better than the first. I love the look of that film.
 
This thread makes me think hard about those ten rolls of HIE in my freezer.

Anyway; not to hijack this thread, but what current IR film has the highest IR sensitivity? Anyone? I assume it's the Efke 820, which is indeed pretty slow, but are there any other decent options for IR these days?
 
drewbarb said:
This thread makes me think hard about those ten rolls of HIE in my freezer.

Anyway; not to hijack this thread, but what current IR film has the highest IR sensitivity? Anyone? I assume it's the Efke 820, which is indeed pretty slow, but are there any other decent options for IR these days?
Click to expand...

Freestyle has only 3 listed: Ilford SFX200, Efke IR820, and Rollei IR. The last two have the same sensitivity. Ilford is called near IR. You can get IR effect with an IR filter. I just use a red filter getting little if any IR effect.

Thanks for the comment jpa66.
 
Last edited:
I like this one even better. really nice.
charjohncarter said:
I don't know about faster ISO/EV but I use .5 or .365. I,if a half shade scene, do the old expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. That sounds nutty because I never use a meter with Efke IR820. On the one below I think I exposed at F11 and 7-8 seconds. There is a fierce reciprocity failure after one second with this film so it is almost helpful because you almost can't over expose the shadows and even the highlights stop exposing:

4376682576_4b9dc51e36.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Way back in the days when film was used for astrophotography, one could 'sensitize' film with hydrogen prior to exposure, which provided several stops of sensitivity. I have considered using this process (if I can find - or build - the hardware!) with Efke Aura film to see if I could get a hand-holdable IR film out of it.
 
OK, I shoot SFX at 40 with a 25 red filter, Hand held but very little IR (which I do not want). Here is what mine look like. Maybe a little to 'dreamy' but I like it this way:

3812368762_49e0bfbdd8.jpg
 
Chris101 said:
Way back in the days when film was used for astrophotography, one could 'sensitize' film with hydrogen prior to exposure, which provided several stops of sensitivity. I have considered using this process (if I can find - or build - the hardware!) with Efke Aura film to see if I could get a hand-holdable IR film out of it.
Click to expand...

That works, tried it years ago. Much less harmful than "mercury Intensifing". You leave the film cartridge in a sealed glass container ( I used it with an old humidor) and a couple of drops of liquid mercury for 3-4 days - up rate the film about 2 stops and process quickly after exposure. It did work, at least with older, "thicker" emulsions. Somewhat unhealthy though.
 
Thanks Tom - I had forgotten about that! I'll give it a try. I ain't scared of mercury - I'm currently doing uranium toning. Now THERE is a heavy metal!
 
I shoot SFX200 @ 50 with a 29 red filter. I like the results better than with a 25, and I can still handhold if necessary.

U26799I1249184328.SEQ.0.jpg


-Brian
 
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