jamriman
Established
Just wondering if I should buy a IR filter for my 40 rokker, which can't be coded. Any experience? Thanks
Cindy Flood
Established
You will correct the magenta, but will probably have some problems with cyan in the corners. This can be corrected in post. The lens correction codes for self-coding (depending on your mount, ymmv) are here http://www.digital-leica.com/lens_codes/index.html, but there is no 40mm code. You might play around with a 35 code and see where that gets you. It is definitely worth it to correct the magenta most of the time. It even affects greens in landscape.
furcafe
Veteran
FWIW, I haven't noticed any cyan fringing w/a B+W 486 mounted on the 40/2 Rokkor, nor w/any of my Leica 35mm lenses (Summilux & Summicron ASPH). None of my lenses are coded. Per Cindy's post, the filter makes a big difference, especially if you shoot in IR-heavy environments (e.g., in my case, stages & night clubs).
jamriman said:Just wondering if I should buy a IR filter for my 40 rokker, which can't be coded. Any experience? Thanks
Cindy Flood
Established
I'm only coding lenses that have the cyan vignette. You can check for the vignette by shooting a white background. You won't miss that cyan if it is there. I coded my 15 Heliar and 28 Cron. I had a cyan problem with my 21 pre-ASPH Elmarit with the filter, but I sold it.
BTW, the cyan is so noticable with the 15mm Heliar that you can see it on the screen for a few seconds before the M8 makes the in-camera correction.
BTW, the cyan is so noticable with the 15mm Heliar that you can see it on the screen for a few seconds before the M8 makes the in-camera correction.
grduprey
Gene
I'm using the Leica UV/IR filter on my pre-asph 35 Sumilux, which cannotbe coded, and no cyan shift at all. I think the cyan shift is only there for wider lenses than 35mm. Don't see it at all on longer lenses.
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