68degrees
Well-known
So if it is then would it matter if you had 10 safelights? or would it make a difference if you had 7.5 watt bulb vs 15 watt bulb? Would white walls reflecting all the light also be more likely to fog than black walls that didnt reflect the light etc. Is it the quantity , the quality or both.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Color also plays a role. I initially used Ilford, which can be used with a green light. The Foma paper I am using now can only be used with a red safelight.
Ronald M
Veteran
No. The cheap and dirty trick is use a coin on unexposed paper for three minutes, then develop it .
The better way is to find the longest exposure before it gets a hint of grey. Then do the coin thing on paper exposed to just under threshold light . This is the better way because you do not want whites to grey from the safelight.
The better way is to find the longest exposure before it gets a hint of grey. Then do the coin thing on paper exposed to just under threshold light . This is the better way because you do not want whites to grey from the safelight.
68degrees
Well-known
That sounds good. Im going to try it. Thank you.!
68degrees
Well-known
Im planning on using ilford papers, can they be used with regular red safelight bulbs?
RichL
Well-known
Stick with the manufactures recommendation for wattage, that is a heat (fire hazard) thing not a brightness issue. Our darkrooms were painted white and we reflected several safe-lights off the walls which gave a much more even illumination. We kept the walls near the enlarger flat black to eliminate possible reflection problems. As for the filter, I've never used anything but an OC and have never had a fog problem with any (Kodak, Ilford, Seagull, etc.) brand or grade of paper. I highly recommend the following (Ilford) site if you are just now getting started in b&w printing. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=24 Have a party
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Yes, they can be used with a red safelight as well.
Ronald M
Veteran
As long as you start out with the proper filter for your paper, paint the walls any color you want. They do not change what hits the paper except for intensity.
I have a Zone VI safelight from Calumet. Bright for graded and dim for multigrade and it is in the processing room. Sometimes I put a cover over the print developer tray.
The enlarger room has a Kodak recommended multicontrast paper use approved and is off in a corner and the enlarger area is very very dark. It is set to bounce off the ceiling and has a 15 watt bulb only.
I have a Zone VI safelight from Calumet. Bright for graded and dim for multigrade and it is in the processing room. Sometimes I put a cover over the print developer tray.
The enlarger room has a Kodak recommended multicontrast paper use approved and is off in a corner and the enlarger area is very very dark. It is set to bounce off the ceiling and has a 15 watt bulb only.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
The more I read, the more I believe you're just amusing yourself.
I find it extremely difficult to believe that you have to ask such immensely basic questions without having done the most minimal research by yourself.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
I have lots of safelights in my darkroom. Each with an OC filter and a 7 Watt bulb. My room is pretty evenly illuminated and a pleasure to work in. You'll notice the light over the wash tray is brighter, as is the one on the opposite side pointing at the camera. The other lights have ND filtration in them for good measure. I've used OC filters forever, and have never seen fog on any kind paper in even extended development. I tested and found filters last for several years, when I print two or three times a week. I'm just now on my first batch of the new Kodak version of a safelight filter: a gel between two sheets of plexiglass and taped together. I'm expecting these not to last as long, we'll see.
The fog test is simple: place the paper where the developer tray usually is, and put fifteen or so coins on it. Remove a coin every minute and then process the paper. You'll see how long you can have paper out by counting the white spots. I test new papers when I start using one.
My first job was in a product photography studio darkroom where we only contact printed on AZO. That was a very bright darkroom.
The fog test is simple: place the paper where the developer tray usually is, and put fifteen or so coins on it. Remove a coin every minute and then process the paper. You'll see how long you can have paper out by counting the white spots. I test new papers when I start using one.
My first job was in a product photography studio darkroom where we only contact printed on AZO. That was a very bright darkroom.
68degrees
Well-known
I only asked that because of what was posted before me which I included in the post where I asked the question.
I never heard of a green safelight before and Ilford was mentioned specifically. It occured to me that some papers may need safelights other than red.
Are all safelights the same? I have a Kodak safelight with #13 filter, is it just the same as a 3.95 red safelight bulb from Adorama, can all black and white papers be used with all bulbs? RFF is my research. Saves me a lot of time which is good considering that sadly our lifespans are quite limited.
68degrees
Well-known
Here Ronald knew what I meant. Why didnt you?