Teuthida
Well-known
...on a whim. What should I expect?
I'm an old rangefinder guy from way back and am gradually embracing digital to the detriment of my film cameras (M5, F5, GA645ZI, Sinar X) except my Hexar AF.
I've got an M8, which I love except for its inability to shoot at over 640 ISO. Have a NEX5N which I hate because its too small and cheap feeling (while giving superb files). I've also fallen hard for my iPhone 4S as a street shooter. I figured the X100 would be the closest digital equivalent to the Hexar, which I like because the Hexar meets my old-fashioned needs for the tactile experience of a real camera without all the damn fuss of those shibboliths like manual focus and exposure I used to claim "real" photographers should never abandon.
Tell me I did the right thing.
I'm an old rangefinder guy from way back and am gradually embracing digital to the detriment of my film cameras (M5, F5, GA645ZI, Sinar X) except my Hexar AF.
I've got an M8, which I love except for its inability to shoot at over 640 ISO. Have a NEX5N which I hate because its too small and cheap feeling (while giving superb files). I've also fallen hard for my iPhone 4S as a street shooter. I figured the X100 would be the closest digital equivalent to the Hexar, which I like because the Hexar meets my old-fashioned needs for the tactile experience of a real camera without all the damn fuss of those shibboliths like manual focus and exposure I used to claim "real" photographers should never abandon.
Tell me I did the right thing.
You all have to stop buying this camera. I think it is having a resurgence and the price is going to stay firm until sales fall off. That is when us bottom feeders will have a chance to buy one.
Snacks
Established
It is a lovely camera and I do not think you will regret it!
Mundane things first: make sure you have the latest firmware, as updates really have improved the camera (see below). Set it up to have as much or as little info as you want on screen/in viewfinder. I recommend switching on the 'corrected AF frame'.
Next, go find something to shoot! The camera has a fast lens and great high ISO performance so you have a lot of options. Sports are rather tough to photograph with the X100 due to slightly slow autofocus, but you're not limited to landscapes (see below also). Have fun!
Firmware
Look for version 1.2. Ignore the standard instructions as they are a hassle. Instead, download the firmware (.dat file), copy it to an SD card, put the card into the camera and start the camera while holding display. Follow onscreen instructions.
Mundane things first: make sure you have the latest firmware, as updates really have improved the camera (see below). Set it up to have as much or as little info as you want on screen/in viewfinder. I recommend switching on the 'corrected AF frame'.
Next, go find something to shoot! The camera has a fast lens and great high ISO performance so you have a lot of options. Sports are rather tough to photograph with the X100 due to slightly slow autofocus, but you're not limited to landscapes (see below also). Have fun!
Firmware
Look for version 1.2. Ignore the standard instructions as they are a hassle. Instead, download the firmware (.dat file), copy it to an SD card, put the card into the camera and start the camera while holding display. Follow onscreen instructions.
willie_901
Veteran
Expect
o slow performance if you use slow SDHC cards
o slow performance if you do not format the card in-camera (100% certainty for Mac users)
o slow AF unless you turn auto power saving and OVF power saving off
o confusion over parallax error if you do not turn Corrected AF Frame on
o frustration if
- you don't understand or accept operating the AF manually is a viable means to focus a camera
- you don't understand manual focus mode is just another AF mode that works completely differently than AFS mode
- you use apertures wider than f 4 for macro work
- you use the OVF for macro work
- you start out with auto ISO and auto DR on, gradually experiment with these later on
- you don't understand how the AEL/AFL button works when you use focus and recompose in each of the focus modes
- you use the in-finder histogram
o total joy when you figure out how to make the camera do what you want it to do
o excellent IQ even at ISO 1600 for color and 3200 for B&W
o raw files with fantastic dynamic range
o whisper quiet operation
o odd ghosting around strong point source lighting (typically street lights) that can't be avoided no matter what
o excellent performance across the frame at f2 and superb performance at f 4 thru f 8
o essentially no pixel smearing at the frame edges even though the you have a 23/2 lens
o ghosting artifacts if you use inexpensive filters
o a really good metering system
o above average auto WB
o excellent resistance to purple fringing and other artifacts near blown highlights.
o nice prints at 12 X 18 or even larger with careful post processing
o a camera you will want to carry with you everywhere you go and enjoy using every day
o slow performance if you use slow SDHC cards
o slow performance if you do not format the card in-camera (100% certainty for Mac users)
o slow AF unless you turn auto power saving and OVF power saving off
o confusion over parallax error if you do not turn Corrected AF Frame on
o frustration if
- you don't understand or accept operating the AF manually is a viable means to focus a camera
- you don't understand manual focus mode is just another AF mode that works completely differently than AFS mode
- you use apertures wider than f 4 for macro work
- you use the OVF for macro work
- you start out with auto ISO and auto DR on, gradually experiment with these later on
- you don't understand how the AEL/AFL button works when you use focus and recompose in each of the focus modes
- you use the in-finder histogram
o total joy when you figure out how to make the camera do what you want it to do
o excellent IQ even at ISO 1600 for color and 3200 for B&W
o raw files with fantastic dynamic range
o whisper quiet operation
o odd ghosting around strong point source lighting (typically street lights) that can't be avoided no matter what
o excellent performance across the frame at f2 and superb performance at f 4 thru f 8
o essentially no pixel smearing at the frame edges even though the you have a 23/2 lens
o ghosting artifacts if you use inexpensive filters
o a really good metering system
o above average auto WB
o excellent resistance to purple fringing and other artifacts near blown highlights.
o nice prints at 12 X 18 or even larger with careful post processing
o a camera you will want to carry with you everywhere you go and enjoy using every day
Richard G
Veteran
Great photo, Snacks, and great post Willie.
My current settings:
AF Corrected Frame on.
AFL/AEL button switch on rather than just on while pressing, with the neighbouring set up menu item set to AFL/AEL locks AF only. This can set it up for zone focus.
ISO Automatic min shutter speed 125 and max ISO 1600, with, and this is important, the default set to 200. High ISO is so good that I find it more convenient to use this. Never used it on another camera.
You need to know that you won't get 1/4000 except at the smaller apertures, with 1/1000 the maximum speed with f2 and f2.8.
Macro needs to be switched on for close focus, unless you switch to MF and use the AEL/ AEF button to focus when it will focus closer without the need to switch to macro.
The firmware update list still includes the most important second firmware upgrade item as the command button being able to 'rock' the command functions. It actually allows you to 'lock' the command functions by a long press on the OK button. Unlocking is the same procedure. This stops the inadvertent activation of flash, continuous mode or video etc.....
It is simply a stunning camera. That young woman's face above is priceless.
My current settings:
AF Corrected Frame on.
AFL/AEL button switch on rather than just on while pressing, with the neighbouring set up menu item set to AFL/AEL locks AF only. This can set it up for zone focus.
ISO Automatic min shutter speed 125 and max ISO 1600, with, and this is important, the default set to 200. High ISO is so good that I find it more convenient to use this. Never used it on another camera.
You need to know that you won't get 1/4000 except at the smaller apertures, with 1/1000 the maximum speed with f2 and f2.8.
Macro needs to be switched on for close focus, unless you switch to MF and use the AEL/ AEF button to focus when it will focus closer without the need to switch to macro.
The firmware update list still includes the most important second firmware upgrade item as the command button being able to 'rock' the command functions. It actually allows you to 'lock' the command functions by a long press on the OK button. Unlocking is the same procedure. This stops the inadvertent activation of flash, continuous mode or video etc.....
It is simply a stunning camera. That young woman's face above is priceless.