sf
Veteran
Arista Premium Developer (Clayton F76 according to some)
Arista premium fixer, stopper, hypo-wash, wetting agent.
20 rolls of Arista.edu Ultra 200
3 rolls of PanF - for landscapes
What a deal on that film. Going to buy a couple more bricks of the 100 and the 400 to stuff in the freezer.
Next step : begin my first photo-project ever. Going to spend the next couple months recording the rural-washington lifestyle. Try to catch all the most concentrated examples of Washington State country life. Who knows what that is, or how to catch it. But we'll see.
Arista premium fixer, stopper, hypo-wash, wetting agent.
20 rolls of Arista.edu Ultra 200
3 rolls of PanF - for landscapes
What a deal on that film. Going to buy a couple more bricks of the 100 and the 400 to stuff in the freezer.
Next step : begin my first photo-project ever. Going to spend the next couple months recording the rural-washington lifestyle. Try to catch all the most concentrated examples of Washington State country life. Who knows what that is, or how to catch it. But we'll see.
bmattock
Veteran
Congrats! May I suggest you burn a roll on just nothing in particular. Just try to get your exposure right on. That way, when you make the ineveitable newbie mistakes (I'm not saying you in particular, it happens to us all), then you won't have blown a really nice shot and have to back and try to bag it again.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
doubs43
Well-known
Freestyle is a class act and I've used them for many years. Their service has always been excellent. In fact, I just ordered two 100' rolls of past-date Arista Pro-50 film which is Ilford Pan-F+ I believe. It's on clearance so the price is right.
Walker
Walker
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ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
One line of chemistry from Freestyle - Arista Premium (or is it
Premium Arista?) - is reputed to be rebranded Sprint.
I have used Sprint with excellent results, and it's hypoallergenic.
That's important to me because some darkroom chemicals cause
the skin on my hands to erupt (where I once got alkali burns).
BTW the Freestyle catalog I just received states
"no additional haz-mat surcharges on chemicals shipped ground".
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
Premium Arista?) - is reputed to be rebranded Sprint.
I have used Sprint with excellent results, and it's hypoallergenic.
That's important to me because some darkroom chemicals cause
the skin on my hands to erupt (where I once got alkali burns).
BTW the Freestyle catalog I just received states
"no additional haz-mat surcharges on chemicals shipped ground".
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
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flipflop
Well-known
Never used the freestyle chemicals...how do they compare?
I have the new issue and I think im going to make an order!
I have the new issue and I think im going to make an order!
sf
Veteran
So far, the Arista premium chems are looking real good. Of course, I have only done two rolls of film in all my life - and the most recent was with those chemicals. Looks as good as the stuff i get from Ivey. They use D76.
sf
Veteran
ChrisPlatt said:
I read that Arista Premium is Clayton F76. But perhaps I am incorrect. I called them and they kind of hinted at it, but would not make things clear.
I think I want to try with Clayton F76+ when $$ allows.
R Alan
Registered Idiot
Freestyle has treated me well over the years-and they correct their mistakes fast(not that it happens often). The 100' rolls of arista 50 is a great bargain-I just had several rolls delivered this week. I'm beginning to really like this film for landscapes like you mentioned. I haven't been real impressed with the 400 speed film, the photos I usually take don't lend themselves to a lot of grain. Here's a shot on Pro 50 (pan f) I took with my GIII.
Roy
Roy
Attachments
Wayne R. Scott
Half fast Leica User
Roy,
Is that Four Peaks Mountain in the background?
Wayne
Is that Four Peaks Mountain in the background?
Wayne
sf
Veteran
R Alan, PanF is a great landscape film. I love it. Been using it for years. Too bad Arista brand is no longer Ilford . . .well, not too bad since it is now Foma and that stuff ain't bad at all. In fact, I like the look of the Arista.edu Ultra 200 better than the FP4 or HP5.
jano
Evil Bokeh
I'm picking up a bulk loader of fleabay, and plan to pickup some rodinal and the Arista EDU Ultra 200. I've seen examples and they look wonderful.
Question.. how do you measure out small bits like 3ml or 6ml? i.e. where can I get a pipet? Or just use a syringe?
Question.. how do you measure out small bits like 3ml or 6ml? i.e. where can I get a pipet? Or just use a syringe?
bmattock
Veteran
jano said:
I use a non-needle syringe for administering infant medicine, available at any pharmacy or chemists without a prescription. Also, it is suggested at a minimum of 10ml of Rodinal be used in any solution. So even if a 1+50 or 1+100 solution is called for, start with 10ml of Rodinal, and add enough water to that to make your desired concentration. You may have excess developer.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
erikhaugsby
killer of threads
bmattock said:
Questions:
Most developers (Ilford DD-X, specifically) can only be used once, right?
How many times can a Fixer be used?
Howbout a Stopper?
I'm mostly concerned with Ilford chemicals, here (Ilfosol, Ilfostop, ect..)
I tried re-using my once-used fixer today and it didn't fully remove the backing from a roll of FP4, I was left with about 6-7 ruined frames because of it...
doubs43
Well-known
erikhaugsby said:
I have a gallon of fixer that's actually quite old but as long as it has the acidic odor to it, it's good and I have no problem with it.
I hope you're giving some aggitation to your film while it's in the fixer. I aggitate when I first pour it in and twice more at roughly 3 minute intervals. That always works for me. Aggitation should be rather gentle and 10-15 inversions are plenty.
Walker
sf
Veteran
How about that arista premium developer, Bill? How many rolls do you put through a batch of developer before making a new one?
jano
Evil Bokeh
bmattock said:
How long does diluted rodinal last? I know the concentrated stuff lasts a very long time. Sorry to hijack!
bmattock
Veteran
erikhaugsby said:
I do not know the answer to all your questions because - I mostly use developer as a one-shot. I tend to use D76 at 1+1, so you can't pour it back into the bottle. I reuse Diafine, it seems to last forever. I have never used the various Ilford developers. HC-110 and Rodinal are designed as one-shots - they are heavily concentrated and when diluted to working strength, they begin to oxidize immediately and will not last very long.
I reuse fixer until I get tired of it. Sometimes I figure that's long enough and pour it out. Otherwise, if you film comes out foggy, and you need to refix, then your fixer is dead.
Stop-bath can increase the life of your fixer, they say. I don't know because I don't use it.
Your failed fixing was not ruined - you could re-fix. Just dunk it again, then wash it and photo-flo it again. No troubles. Increased risk of scratches is about all.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
bmattock
Veteran
shutterflower said:
I never used the premium developer, only the small bottle of the 'standard' Arista developer. I still have most of it. I mixed it something like 1+9, which made it a one-shot. I think I did two rolls in it (at the same time) and out it went.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
bmattock
Veteran
jano said:
Not long at all. Maybe 24 hours, and that's a reach. Use it immediately once you dilute it or pour it out.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
sf
Veteran
bmattock said:
OK, that is what i did. Somewhat by accident. I was planning on using it a bit to see how long it would last, but dumped it instinctively during development.
Will thinner dilutions and longer developing times produce more or less contrast? I always found that shorter paper printing times made for more contrast. . .I want to use the Arista premium developer at 1+19 or something higher than 1+9. Might also save some money . . I don't know.