Just Picked up a Jupiter 9 85/2

Uncle Bill

Uncle Bill

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What I would like to know is the diameter of the lens for filter size, also is a hood recommended? I am shooting with my Kiev III.

Bill
 
I seek a silver one :D to match with other lenses... i'm lacking the J-9 and the Orion-15... maybe i'll have the Orion-15 before leaving to see my family in France for xmas! And hopefully that 2.8/50 Tessar in Contax mount too ;)
 
Great piece of glass but mine had to be collimated-but it's a pretty easy do it yourself project. I was really disappointed till I adjusted mine. Stu
 
Daniel, I had nothing to do yesterday, so I collimated a Jupiter 9 I had around. It's the second one for me and both needed repair upon purchase. Both were way out of collimation, but that was easy enough to fix. I'm looking forward to trying out the one I did yesterday, as the lens appears unused. I have yet to have purchase a piece of FSU glass that didn't need repair, even my Mir 21mm which was new in the box. But once they're fixed, they work great. You do realize that the entire optical unit just screws out of the focusing mount the way a rigid summicron does? Makes it easy to service.
 
Daniel, I must say that I own both FSU and Zeiss lenses and once the FSU lenses are set up it's hard if not impossible to tell what photos were taken by which. I regularly use a Jupiter 8 and it's probably as nice or nicer than the Sonnar. If you're at all handy, and invest in some simple lens tools, FSU stuff is the way to go. You can buy a set of lenses from 35-135mm for less than the cost of one 5cm Sonnar. Stu
 
I can't disagree with you on that. An investment in some lens tools will be paid back many times. The collimation with a 2-camera method is a must to ensure that lenses are properly repaired.


pangkievrange

Stu W said:
Daniel, I must say that I own both FSU and Zeiss lenses and once the FSU lenses are set up it's hard if not impossible to tell what photos were taken by which. I regularly use a Jupiter 8 and it's probably as nice or nicer than the Sonnar. If you're at all handy, and invest in some simple lens tools, FSU stuff is the way to go. You can buy a set of lenses from 35-135mm for less than the cost of one 5cm Sonnar. Stu
Click to expand...
 
I think collimation on the J-9 is simple. I recall that the entire optical unit unscrews from the focus mount with no tools, well unless its stuck. There should be some shims on the bottom of the unit which bottom out in the focus mount to change the working distance.

Collimate with an SLR (see below) - add subtract shims as necessary. You can easily make new shims from paper of various thicknesses.

http://www.elekm.net/zeiss/repair/collimate/

My J-9 (Contax mount) was in lovely shape when I got it. Pristine but for waxy grease and aluminum filngs(!) in the focus mechanism. Haven't used it enough to be honest - still holding out for a postwar Sonnar 85/2. Its a heck of a big and heavy lens for a rangefinder.
 
I have tried the collimation method shown in Mike's link but have a question - why do they recommend not using the split prism? I have found that by just using the ground glass I cannot achieve precise focus. If I use the split prism will my results be off?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
The split prism will almost certainly be half blacked-out. Ground glass is also more accurate. If you scribe a sharp enough line in tape (rather than using marker), you will make no mistake.
 
Bill, check the collimation before you burn a roll of film. It's really easy to do and that lens will really suffer from being out as I'm sure you intend to use it wide open as a portrait lens. As far as collimation, I use the 2 camera method, but I use a piece of ground glass with fine pencil lines on them. It's true that the split prism can be blacked out , but I use a 135 f2 and a very bright light source and the prism works for me. Stu
 
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