Peter_Jones
Well-known
I just got myself a Koni Omega 100, in fantastically well-used condition. The rangefinder was not working, but vibration in transit must've freed it. I'm going to run a film through it to see if I like it, and if I do I will give it a bit of a facelift and a general clean/fettle.
Any tips for getting the best from these (other than weight training lol), or regarding stripping/servicing ?
Cheers
Any tips for getting the best from these (other than weight training lol), or regarding stripping/servicing ?
Cheers
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
They are simple and robust as old Land Rover, three screws and you can clean whole rangefinder. One thing, when winding, do it strongly, cause doing it gently may not advance the frame counter. And forget about vertical shots, its sooo uncomfortable.
raid
Dad Photographer
Then 90mm lens is very sharp, if it came with your Koni. I still have such a camera, but I sold my 58mm wide angle lens with finder many years ago.
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
Today I bought one, marked as 60mm 

Peter_Jones
Well-known
Very nice - looks a bit cleaner than mine 
raid
Dad Photographer
The 60mm lens is similar to the 58mm lens. Should be a good lens.
raid
Dad Photographer
There are two 90mm lenses for sale on ebay; $50 and $87
dazedgonebye
Veteran
My advice...don't drop it on your foot.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
What a beast these things are! Straight from the twilight zone! 
Nokton48
Veteran
The Koni was a favorite of wedding photographers in the 60s and 70s. Very little to go wrong.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Sometimes the backs can require new seals, or the frame spacing can go off. Greg Weber is the go-to guy for Koni repairs.
As Jan from Warsaw said, pull the wind knob out smartly to make sure the film is wound. Then push it back all the way with the heel of your palm; don't be too gentle. The mechanism is sturdy and can stand this treatment.
And he's right about rangefinder adjustment -- very straightforward. If memory serves, vertical adjustment is accessible if you remove the middle cold shoe; horizontal by removing the flat disc on the right side of the back of the top cover. Or, you can remove five screws (one is hidden under the film back) and the whole top cover lifts off so you can clean the glass and adjust the RF with plenty of room to manoeuver.
There are only four lenses -- the 58 (or 60, I forget which one came first; they're similiar but not identical, I believe); 90; 135 (rare); and 180. All are really good, though rather slow. The 180 is rather a monster. The earlier lenses are Hexanons, the later ones are Omegons. The later cameras, such as in Jan's picture, are called Rapid Omega (100 and 200), and the earlier ones are Koni Omegas. The R-Os (and Omegons) were made by Mamiya after Konica sold the production line to Mamiya. The Rapid Omega 200 and the Koni-Omega M (?) allow changing film backs mid-roll, while the others do not.
Enjoy the camera! It's really nice to use, even though it's a very different beast from the norm in almost every respect.
As Jan from Warsaw said, pull the wind knob out smartly to make sure the film is wound. Then push it back all the way with the heel of your palm; don't be too gentle. The mechanism is sturdy and can stand this treatment.
And he's right about rangefinder adjustment -- very straightforward. If memory serves, vertical adjustment is accessible if you remove the middle cold shoe; horizontal by removing the flat disc on the right side of the back of the top cover. Or, you can remove five screws (one is hidden under the film back) and the whole top cover lifts off so you can clean the glass and adjust the RF with plenty of room to manoeuver.
There are only four lenses -- the 58 (or 60, I forget which one came first; they're similiar but not identical, I believe); 90; 135 (rare); and 180. All are really good, though rather slow. The 180 is rather a monster. The earlier lenses are Hexanons, the later ones are Omegons. The later cameras, such as in Jan's picture, are called Rapid Omega (100 and 200), and the earlier ones are Koni Omegas. The R-Os (and Omegons) were made by Mamiya after Konica sold the production line to Mamiya. The Rapid Omega 200 and the Koni-Omega M (?) allow changing film backs mid-roll, while the others do not.
Enjoy the camera! It's really nice to use, even though it's a very different beast from the norm in almost every respect.
raid
Dad Photographer
My Koni is a Rapid-M with interchangeable backs with light seal to allow for a mid-roll change.
IK13
Established
Had two of those. Sold the one with the wide lens. Not because didn't like it, because was just collecting dust in the closet. Started to thin out my other film gear this month. Sold an OM set earlier this month, then took out my other Koni, the 120 and 220 backs (I've changed all the light seals and have serviced the clutches in the backs myself) to take picture of them for the classifieds...and I just couldn't let it go...
About the only complain you might have is that the lenses don't focus close enough for say a head or head and shoulders portrait.
About the only complain you might have is that the lenses don't focus close enough for say a head or head and shoulders portrait.
pinkarmy
Well-known
i understand the dark slide is essential for changing lens and film backs.
is it an "absolutely no exception"?
i have seen cameras with lens that is "locked" on the body and "film back without dark slide" for sale.
is it still usable?
is it an "absolutely no exception"?
i have seen cameras with lens that is "locked" on the body and "film back without dark slide" for sale.
is it still usable?
pbo
Established
i have seen cameras with lens that is "locked" on the body and "film back without dark slide" for sale.
is it still usable?
Still usable, you just shouldn't remove the lens while film is in the back.
To remove the lens or back, you have to manually hold the catches that the darkslide pushes out (they are behind the lens).
IK13
Established
Still usable, you just shouldn't remove the lens while film is in the back.
To remove the lens or back, you have to manually hold the catches that the darkslide pushes out (they are behind the lens).
What he said. Same for changing magazines.
pinkarmy
Well-known
What he said. Same for changing magazines.
may i ask:
is there any trick to change film if you have a film back without dark slide?
(let's say i have One camera and TWO film backs with only One dark slide)
thanks.
IK13
Established
may i ask:
is there any trick to change film if you have a film back without dark slide?
(let's say i have One camera and TWO film backs with only One dark slide)
thanks.
If there is one, then I don't know it.
Out of the 3 backs that I had, one came with a plastic cover.
I suppose you can take the magazine out, walk into a dark room, remove the slide, put the plastic cover and type the edges (with black electrical tape).
But that's not a trick, it's... inconvenience...
nosmok
Established
I just got one of these. As far as i can tell, the Koni Omega "Rapid" and the Koni "Rapid Omega" cannot interchange backs. My camera is an Omega "Rapid", but it came with 2 (well, 1-1/2 really) "Rapid Omega" backs. The RO had the snouted backs with the darkslide; the OR had backs with a cover that went over the front, they loaded into a fixed snout that later was made removable in the RO. The OR has a shutter that locks down when changing lenses, the RO has darkslide. There is NO darkslide slot in the OR. Have I confused anybody yet, except myself? Anyway, if anybody has a Rapid Omega camera and an Omega Rapid back, get at me; I have an Omega Rapid camera and a Rapid Omega back. We can make each other happy.
--nosmok
--nosmok
kuzano
Veteran
Mid roll lens change vs midroll film change.
Mid roll lens change vs midroll film change.
As I recall my time with the Koni 100, you only have the option to change the lens during a mid roll. There was a dark slide for that purpose.
With the 200 model, you had the options for both midroll lens change AND midroll film change, changing out the whole back for a back loaded with another film emulsion.
I could never MIDROLL change the film back on the 100. It's an entirely different back in that the darkslide remains in the back on the 200 when you dismount it.
Also, the bad rap these camera's had for film spacing and broken backs was a USER generated problem. The backs were meant for the film to be advanced rather agressively. If you pussy footed around with the advance... ie. didn't take full hard strokes the back usually failed. Slam that baby to the next frame. That's why it's called the "RAPID", for rapid advance. These were press cameras and took heavy duty in the field, plus if you lost your rifle or sidearm... Well, need I say more.
Many field medics never really understood the Rapid Omega or 100 tattooed on the foreheads and temples of enemy combatants.
Mid roll lens change vs midroll film change.
As I recall my time with the Koni 100, you only have the option to change the lens during a mid roll. There was a dark slide for that purpose.
With the 200 model, you had the options for both midroll lens change AND midroll film change, changing out the whole back for a back loaded with another film emulsion.
I could never MIDROLL change the film back on the 100. It's an entirely different back in that the darkslide remains in the back on the 200 when you dismount it.
Also, the bad rap these camera's had for film spacing and broken backs was a USER generated problem. The backs were meant for the film to be advanced rather agressively. If you pussy footed around with the advance... ie. didn't take full hard strokes the back usually failed. Slam that baby to the next frame. That's why it's called the "RAPID", for rapid advance. These were press cameras and took heavy duty in the field, plus if you lost your rifle or sidearm... Well, need I say more.
Many field medics never really understood the Rapid Omega or 100 tattooed on the foreheads and temples of enemy combatants.
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