btgc
Veteran
Hello, in a few words, I have stopped this nigh cause it's too late. Next step is here http://wiki.silvergrain.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core
ownloadItem&g2_itemId=3239 - can anybody give a hint how to detach visible parts one from other ? Are we talking about three screws ? or this is wrong direction - I'm stopping because I don't have such thin screwdriver and clear head today, so good night.
Oh wait, do I actually need to separate them in case of sticky shutter blades and aperture ? Seems that yes if aperture ring isn't driving aperture.
ownloadItem&g2_itemId=3239 - can anybody give a hint how to detach visible parts one from other ? Are we talking about three screws ? or this is wrong direction - I'm stopping because I don't have such thin screwdriver and clear head today, so good night.Oh wait, do I actually need to separate them in case of sticky shutter blades and aperture ? Seems that yes if aperture ring isn't driving aperture.
greyhoundman
Well-known
No need to take anything else apart. You actually didn't need to go that far for dirty blades.
btgc
Veteran
Hm....but aperture also is stuck, should it free just from dripping ronsonol ? Aperture ring is stiff and don't change opening. Mick Feuerbacher got success cleaning aperture selection mechanism from back side - http://feuerbacher.net/photo/repair/KonicaAutoS2/KA10.JPG that's why I decided to move into.
Anyway, taking lens off body I see corroded PC wire, so I'll be able to solder it back.
P.S. btw, should I renew lube somewhere ? on kyphoto I read that if rinsed well and working, one can live without relubing internals of shutter. Maybe gurus can shed some light...if anything, I have at home LM2 lithium-based automotive lube, very well for bearings Well, any lube should be used sparingly.
Anyway, taking lens off body I see corroded PC wire, so I'll be able to solder it back.
P.S. btw, should I renew lube somewhere ? on kyphoto I read that if rinsed well and working, one can live without relubing internals of shutter. Maybe gurus can shed some light...if anything, I have at home LM2 lithium-based automotive lube, very well for bearings
Well, any lube should be used sparingly.
Last edited:
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Do not use any lube. The shutter and diaphragm are desisigned to run "dry". If you try to lube it, you will make it worse.
Kim
Kim
btgc
Veteran
Thanks, Kim, I should be more more precise - with lubing I mean pins in aperture selection mechanism (sure not kogwheels too). I'm aware that shutter and aperture blades run dry.
I wonder what's greasy mess on figure-cut metal plate, covering shutter internals.
I wonder what's greasy mess on figure-cut metal plate, covering shutter internals.
btgc
Veteran
well, after night aperture started to work, at least manually selecting f-stops, blades move.
Now shutter blades - they aren't visible. When cocking mechanism, shutter blades start to appear (move out for about 3mm) and when wind lever reach end, they hide again. It seems that shutter doesn't get cocked. When pressing shutter release, nothing happens.
Wit flash sync in X mode, self timer charges hardly at mid of move , once charged, runs very very lazy, at mid stops...then like overcomes barrierer...and then goes fine. As shutter isn't cocked, nothing happens.
Seems I'll leave some ronsonol overnight here and there.
Now shutter blades - they aren't visible. When cocking mechanism, shutter blades start to appear (move out for about 3mm) and when wind lever reach end, they hide again. It seems that shutter doesn't get cocked. When pressing shutter release, nothing happens.
Wit flash sync in X mode, self timer charges hardly at mid of move , once charged, runs very very lazy, at mid stops...then like overcomes barrierer...and then goes fine. As shutter isn't cocked, nothing happens.
Seems I'll leave some ronsonol overnight here and there.
btgc
Veteran
At least, I've found reason of "not releasing" - bent lever near selftimer hadle while in 0 position. Can't figure how one managed to bend this metal. OK, I also broke off one pin (oh oh, nice lesson from first shutterwork, happily it sat down again and I'll glue it...carefully!).
So for now I have 1/60-1/500 and Bulb working, intermediate speeds open blades fully and don't close. Hope I'll find out rest too.
So for now I have 1/60-1/500 and Bulb working, intermediate speeds open blades fully and don't close. Hope I'll find out rest too.
Last edited:
btgc
Veteran
At slow speeds, as widely explained, blades don't close because of slow speeds escapement - mechanism just dont press back small lever. If I do this with tootpick, blades close. I unscrewed two screws, removed upper plate, put back not really washing cogwheels as there seem to be clean after ronsonol-o-bathing and for first time I were afraid to mess it up, after this mechanism tries to work, not quite successfully though. I'll continue my afforts in that direction and God bless this baby, it would be joy to use it.
btgc
Veteran
So far cleaned aperture blades with naphta sticks and put black plate over back. Next are shutter leafs, just need to fix pin I broke off on early stages of disassembly...
btgc
Veteran
While waiting for next S2 arriving, I want to share what happened to first one....with good efforts I managed to clean shutter, got idea how that household works. Unfortunately some parts were broken on arrival. Cradle where aperture leafs lie were breaked in one place and after assembling, there are three screws on back. So one screw didn't catch internals but slightly pushed aperture cradle because of damaged screw-hole and leafs fell apart. I don't want this could happen while completely assembled and decided to use this S2 as "wide open shooter" with aperture leafs removed or just give a try for another S2.
In any case, great experience!
In any case, great experience!