doubledan
Member
Friends,
I have an SF 20, a very lightweight, handy flash left over from the days when I owned an M6 ttl. Today, just for fun, I decided to see if it would work in manual mode on my Minolta CLE. Lo and behold, with the flash turned on and the camera shutter speed dial set to AUTO, the camera chose an exposure of 1/60 second -- its maximum flash-synch speed -- and stayed with that setting regardless of whether I aimed it a a dark surface or a bright one. With the flash turned OFF, the camera's meter showed variable, accurate readings -- 1/8, 1/15, etc. -- as I aimed at darker or brighter areas.
This must mean that the CLE's three hot shoe contacts line up with three of the five contacts on the SF 20 such that the two pieces "talk" to each other. But I haven't yet fired off test shots to see if the combination actually works, because I don't know if there's a risk of frying the camera.
Has anyone else tried this? Do you know of any relevant threads? I haven't come across any guidance thus far.
Dan
I have an SF 20, a very lightweight, handy flash left over from the days when I owned an M6 ttl. Today, just for fun, I decided to see if it would work in manual mode on my Minolta CLE. Lo and behold, with the flash turned on and the camera shutter speed dial set to AUTO, the camera chose an exposure of 1/60 second -- its maximum flash-synch speed -- and stayed with that setting regardless of whether I aimed it a a dark surface or a bright one. With the flash turned OFF, the camera's meter showed variable, accurate readings -- 1/8, 1/15, etc. -- as I aimed at darker or brighter areas.
This must mean that the CLE's three hot shoe contacts line up with three of the five contacts on the SF 20 such that the two pieces "talk" to each other. But I haven't yet fired off test shots to see if the combination actually works, because I don't know if there's a risk of frying the camera.
Has anyone else tried this? Do you know of any relevant threads? I haven't come across any guidance thus far.
Dan
Palaeoboy
Joel Matherson
Yes you run the risk of frying the cameras electronics. Even the Minolta PX and CLE Autoflash have a special cutoff switch to prevent a short circuit by merely removing the flash while it is still on. So even the Manufacturer acknowledged a vulnerable electronic system. It was their first TTL flash metering camera after all.
It only takes one of the smaller pins to set the camera to its flash synch speed. The second small pin permits communication between the camera and flash for the TTL flash metering. It will not be the same as the Leica flash and you do run a real risk of damage if you trigger the camera and flash.
It only takes one of the smaller pins to set the camera to its flash synch speed. The second small pin permits communication between the camera and flash for the TTL flash metering. It will not be the same as the Leica flash and you do run a real risk of damage if you trigger the camera and flash.
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doubledan
Member
Thanks for clearing this up.
Meanwhile, I crossed my fingers and shot a few frames anyway. No harm done to the electronics, but the results were not such that I would be tempted to push my luck again. With the camera and flash both set on AUTO, I had less control over fill ratio than I do with my Vivitar and ZI, setting shutter speed and flash output manually. I tend to use flash no more than two or three times a year in any case, and then only for a bit of fill, so this was a matter of curiosity rather than consuming interest.
All best,
Dan
Meanwhile, I crossed my fingers and shot a few frames anyway. No harm done to the electronics, but the results were not such that I would be tempted to push my luck again. With the camera and flash both set on AUTO, I had less control over fill ratio than I do with my Vivitar and ZI, setting shutter speed and flash output manually. I tend to use flash no more than two or three times a year in any case, and then only for a bit of fill, so this was a matter of curiosity rather than consuming interest.
All best,
Dan