Leicaflex insanity

Vickko

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Such is my insanity.

First, I buy a partially complete Leicaflex SL, jammed. Hoping to tinker with it. $20

Then, buy $46 with of parts to complete the camera.

Get it unjammed, but find out that it may be missing a part, and doesn't really run over the shutter range. Meter is of course dead, but battery check works.

Then buy $23 repair manual for a similar model, the classical Leicaflex, hoping that it will reveal further clues. Also discover that it is one of the most complicate cameras to assemble and repair (probably lead to its demise).

So, now, $89 spent.

But, worse, it exacerbates GAS for Leicaflex SL2 (which I've been fighting all month). I know of a couple nice ones in a store, but, also now know what can go wrong with them, and how impossible it is to DIY my own CLA.

Doesn't resolve the GAS though.

sigh
 
Also discover that it is one of the most complicate cameras to assemble and repair

Yes, I heard a Leitz-trained tech say that.

Time to stop, no? Because a $89 paperweight is not cheap, and even if finding a really working Leicaflex for a good price is quite feasible, check the prices of the lenses... Then keep in mind that even if you have a good kit, it is hard to find someone to service it, so it is not dependable for critical work. All this, just for casual strolls in good weather.

I know this feeling, and I try to limit my GAS to cheaper cameras. For example, Exakta and Contax. Less nightmarish to repair, much less costly to buy, and historically very interesting. And I'm actually able to take pictures with them, without breaking the bank. Things such as Alpa, Leicaflex, ... are a no go for me, they are bottomless money pits. Nikon F, Leica M, 500C are my dependable classic cameras.

Sorry if this post feels like a cold rain on your parade :eek: , this is just my 2 cents.
 
I may turn this SL into a "repair demo" camera. Similar to my IIIg below.

It is very interesting to see the gears working.

I'll post the SL soon, when I have it properly "prepared".

The Nikon F is dead-simple to work on, so are Hasselblads in the 500cm, 500cm, 501c and 501cm. Gets trickier when electronics are involved.

But I did have a time when I was using a 203FE (sister-in-law's wedding) and it locked up. Saved my butt with a Leicaflex SL2. And after I got home, I did revive the 203FE myself, but never really knew what was wrong. Maybe just wanted an internal massage. Didn't open it up very deep, being afraid of causing permanent damage.



---------------- the iiig operations demo camera --------------->

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Leicaflexes are among the most difficult SLRs to work on,
many very experienced camera techs
won't touch them

Stephen
 
What is it that makes them so difficult? I wasn't aware of this. I know that cameras like the Retina Reflex and ZI Contaflex are total bears, and even the Minolta SRTs in some respects, but not the Leicaflexes.
 
Vikko,

Your Leicaflex SL2 insanity led to a resurgence of my own Leicaflex insanity. But I don't buy cameras that are not fully operational and in good condition.

Now I have two Leicaflex SLs, chrome and black, and four lenses (summicron and summilux 50, summicron 90, elmarit 135). I'll buy one more lens and be done. One is already at home and works flawlessly ... it is one superb camera. The other should be there when I arrive home late tonight.

I buy cameras to use them, and if something breaks that I want fixed, I just send it to someone who I trust to work on them.

G
 
From what I read in Tomosy's book, it is because of the non-modular nature of the camera, and the myriad of small parts.

I don't know if the camera functions if it is partially assembled, eg. the mirror works independent of the shutter, but from what I can see of the "master shaft" mechanism, I think not likely.

So - it all has to go back together correctly, or, it doesn't work at all. That makes mid-point investigation impossible.


What is it that makes them so difficult? I wasn't aware of this. I know that cameras like the Retina Reflex and ZI Contaflex are total bears, and even the Minolta SRTs in some respects, but not the Leicaflexes.
 
The innards of an SL.




Photo 1: top front, from left to right: film counter, next film advance and shutter knob cluster, then slow speed escapement, then prism, then meter galvanometer and needles linkage

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Photo 2: film lever in second position, meter on, better view of slow speed escapement

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Photo 3: rear view of open top, rear view of slow speed escapement

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Photo 4: bottom front, from left to right: advance stop mechanism, shutter timer fast speed gears, shutter curtain bearings, shutter brake, tripod mount, battery chamber

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Photo 5: bottom rear view. The shutter gear-set is the bottom of the master shaft.

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Photo 6: self timer chamber, horizontal bar is the mirror trigger, vertical shaft activates shutter and advance lock.
The master shaft can be seen inside the self timer chamber

1011331_10151807293649783_532316467_n.jpg
 
Thanks, very interesting. Am I right that the meter adjustments are done by turning the slotted studs (not really sure what to call them) at the front of the prism? They are accessible by removing the leatherette patch at the front of the prism, correct?
 
Yes, the three meter potentiometer adjustments are in the front, under the leather patch. No need to disassemble anything.

Shutter curtain tension (which would affect shutter timing) can be done with removing the bottom plate and battery chamber.

If the shutter is badly off and needs retiming, well, clear the table and clear your schedule. Top has to come off and maybe the slow speed escapement to get at the high speed adjustments.

Prism comes off easily, but focusing screen looks buried in the top of the mirror chamber.

And to relube the shutter release mechanism or film advance looks like it needs major surgery too.

uggggghhhh




Thanks, very interesting. Am I right that the meter adjustments are done by turning the slotted studs (not really sure what to call them) at the front of the prism? They are accessible by removing the leatherette patch at the front of the prism, correct?
 
Looks like a lot of fun. Now I know why the Leicaflex has such a hump-back look to it. That's a lot of stuff to cram under the hood.

PF
 
Leicaflex SL is one of my all time favorite cameras. I love how the image just pops into focus. Much more dramatic then microprism screens from other companies. And Leica still has many of the spare parts for that old camera. I now own five, which is a bit eccentric since I still only have two hands.

Here in the US both Serry Krauter and DAG and many other too.
 
What is it that makes them so difficult? I wasn't aware of this. I know that cameras like the Retina Reflex and ZI Contaflex are total bears, and even the Minolta SRTs in some respects, but not the Leicaflexes.
The Contaflex gets a bit of a bad rap simply because of what it is. Of all the lens shutter SLRs it is arguably the easiest to work on. The problem is that few people are real lateral thinkers. If a tech has cut his or her teeth working on rangefinders, TLRs, or SLRs with focal plane shutters, when a Contaflex comes along, it is usually all too hard, because it is a different type of design configuration altogether. But they were beautifully made back in the days when Zeiss Ikon were still producing really good quality stuff, and the Tessar lenses are great performers. Bear in mind that whilst Hasselblad conceived the reflex variant of the Synchro Compur shutter, it was only after the production version had proved itself in the Contaflex, that they introduced the 500C with its Synchro Compur shutter lenses.

Cheers,
Brett
 
oh no, trigger finger has gone nuts.

I now have two SL's and one SL2 on order. One SL is jammed. One is good (it will be my working standard). And the SL2 just because I like them.
 
It's crazy when the bug hits you.

The chrome SL and Summicron 50 I bought should be delivered today.
And I bought another lens for it too (Elmarit 180/2.8).

I'm done with buying equipment for a good long while.

G
 
Leicaflexes aren't difficult to work on, they are not designed to be repaired. I gave up working on them when I realised that I always do a full disassembly and factory reassembly on every of those I ever touched including complete replacement of the electronics (and wires that are so thin that they can be broken just by breathing on them). Clients don't want to pay a 1200€ bill for this kind of camera (that can be such a wonderful thing when working)
 
The chrome SL can be bought in working condition very cheaply now so I personally wouldn't waste too much cash or time on fixing one unless it's just out of interest. The major cost of Leicaflex ownership is the ever increasing price of lenses.
I've said this before but will say it again, to everyone who doesn't get the Leicaflex thing. Borrow or buy one, put a 35 or 50 summicron on it, shoot a few rolls and I'll bet afterwards any other manual focus SLR seems lacking. As Steve says, focus just pops and as the viewfinder is the most important aspect of taking photographs the Leicaflex shines above all others. The tactile feel of the camera is to me like using an M2, 3 or 4. They just have that same metal feel and quality build about them and lastly you are using some of, if not the best lenses produced and to my mind equal of M lenses.
I liked my SL2 but it just didn't feel as nice as the SL and I didn't care for the interrupted view of the split centre dot in the finder. Slightly more sensitive meter though.
Enjoy your new cameras.
 
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