Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I'm trading my Leica M2 for a C330s and have a few questions for those who have/had this model or any of the C series.
I would like to hear opinions on how it handles -- the do's and don'ts of this camera. Like, where it shouldn't go with you or where it wouldn't work well. Also any tips and tricks to using this particular TLR.
I really enjoy the TLR's I have and I'm looking forward to this one even more because of the changeable lenses. This one is coming with the standard 80 2.8 but I'm also picking up a 135mm for it.
Any handling, shooting, and carrying information is much appreciated. I'm just trying to make this a smooth transition to using it right away without breaking something..... I've been doing medium format for a few years now and I downloaded the manual and even printed it off for take-out reading, so no worries there.
Thanks!
I would like to hear opinions on how it handles -- the do's and don'ts of this camera. Like, where it shouldn't go with you or where it wouldn't work well. Also any tips and tricks to using this particular TLR.
I really enjoy the TLR's I have and I'm looking forward to this one even more because of the changeable lenses. This one is coming with the standard 80 2.8 but I'm also picking up a 135mm for it.
Any handling, shooting, and carrying information is much appreciated. I'm just trying to make this a smooth transition to using it right away without breaking something..... I've been doing medium format for a few years now and I downloaded the manual and even printed it off for take-out reading, so no worries there.
Thanks!
Rogier
Rogier Willems
There is no substitute for square inches off film ;-)
I just sold all my 35mm stuff except one in favor of 120 format. One of them is a Yashica TLR.
Enjoy!
I just sold all my 35mm stuff except one in favor of 120 format. One of them is a Yashica TLR.
Enjoy!
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Thanks, I will. I have two 1959 TLR's already, a Rolleiflex 3.5F and a Baby Grey 4x4. Love them to death and really looking forward to the C330s.
ChrisN
Striving
I found myself in agreement with Vicky on the subject of C330 handling:
from this thread.
Lovely images from those excellent lenses; I just could not get used to the handling.
from this thread.
Lovely images from those excellent lenses; I just could not get used to the handling.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I saw this in that thread by you:
"Are old Hasselblad's within the possible budget? A 500C/M with a 150 Sonnar "C" lens makes for a fine portrait camera."
Funny because I have that set-up as well
"Are old Hasselblad's within the possible budget? A 500C/M with a 150 Sonnar "C" lens makes for a fine portrait camera."
Funny because I have that set-up as well
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I loved my C330f, and still regret that I had to sell it after I graduated from art school. Was so poor then, I sold almost everything that I had of any value just to buy food. I use a Hasselblad now, which is a better camera for the work I do, but if I needed a 6x6 and didn't have the $$$ for the system I have now, I'd definitely buy another C330f.
Use a tripod, it is HEAVY. The bellows focusing makes ultra closeups easy, but be aware that at very close distances, the bellows extension means you need to increase exposure to compensate. The Interchangeable lenses are the reason for the Mamiya over other TLR cameras. Gives the flexibility of a Hassy or Bronica SQ system, but cheaper than Hassy and much closer focusing than Hassy or Bronica.
Avoid the Porrofinder if you want an eye-level finder. The porrofinder uses mirrors, is VERY dim, and gives a small, hard to focus view. Get the actual Prism. If you do a lot of closeup work, the Paramender accessory is awesome. I had all that stuff, and had to sell it all about 11 years ago. cry.
The lenses are EXTREMELY sharp in the center, but not as much in the corners. Stopped down to f8 and below, the corners are good on the 80mm and the two wideangles. I had the 135 tele too and don't know if mine was bad or what, but it was really soft in the corners at all apertures. Good portrait lens though, it is very sharp in the center.
After shooting this 1946 Chevy, I got really close.
Here's a few others.
All shot on Tmax 100 developed in Rodinal 1+50 with the 80mm black lens.
Use a tripod, it is HEAVY. The bellows focusing makes ultra closeups easy, but be aware that at very close distances, the bellows extension means you need to increase exposure to compensate. The Interchangeable lenses are the reason for the Mamiya over other TLR cameras. Gives the flexibility of a Hassy or Bronica SQ system, but cheaper than Hassy and much closer focusing than Hassy or Bronica.
Avoid the Porrofinder if you want an eye-level finder. The porrofinder uses mirrors, is VERY dim, and gives a small, hard to focus view. Get the actual Prism. If you do a lot of closeup work, the Paramender accessory is awesome. I had all that stuff, and had to sell it all about 11 years ago.
cry.The lenses are EXTREMELY sharp in the center, but not as much in the corners. Stopped down to f8 and below, the corners are good on the 80mm and the two wideangles. I had the 135 tele too and don't know if mine was bad or what, but it was really soft in the corners at all apertures. Good portrait lens though, it is very sharp in the center.
After shooting this 1946 Chevy, I got really close.
Here's a few others.
All shot on Tmax 100 developed in Rodinal 1+50 with the 80mm black lens.
taylan
Street Dog
Chris explained very well but i want to add one point. when you take close up photography, you have to adjust your exposure in order to focusing distance. Read the manuel also before loading film. You can easly find on the internet. Moreover, i am using a shutter release cable and i think it is very useful. Finally, mentioned before but i have to repeat, start body building because it is very heavy and plus that you have to carry a tripod.
BTW, i have both M2 and C330. If you have any chance i recommend you not to sell M2. I am very pleased M2 as an everyday camera.
BTW, i have both M2 and C330. If you have any chance i recommend you not to sell M2. I am very pleased M2 as an everyday camera.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
thanks guys, that's great info!
Taylan, 14 years of military got me good and ready for carrying anything, and I still have (and won't sell) my Leica M3 Double Stroke
Taylan, 14 years of military got me good and ready for carrying anything, and I still have (and won't sell) my Leica M3 Double Stroke
taylan
Street Dog
Then you are most appropriate person for the C330
thanks guys, that's great info!
Taylan, 14 years of military got me good and ready for carrying anything, and I still have (and won't sell) my Leica M3 Double Stroke
ray*j*gun
Veteran
I have had a c220 for ever it seems, and once I got the right strap (Op-Tech) I got used to the weight quickly. Of course I used to carry an RZ67 so I'm a little biased. Everything Chris said +1. Once I put the eye level finder on the camera it never left.
aad
Not so new now.
Funny, the longest day with my C33 I had the prism on it, and it was mounted on a grip with a big flash as I did a wedding.
Everything went fine, but on the last shot after dinner, I realized I couldn't lift the camera to my eye anymore...
Everything went fine, but on the last shot after dinner, I realized I couldn't lift the camera to my eye anymore...
KenR
Well-known
Great camera, great optics - never had a problem with it. However I sold it for 2 reasons: 1. the weight was a bit much for long hikes, 2. the camera is so big and odd looking (to the general public) that people were always staring at me. At first I thought that it was just my own paranoia, but my wife noticed it as well as told me to ditch the camera.
goffer
Well-known
I really enjoy mine... if you are interested in one of the wider lenses I can attest to the quality of the 65mm f3.5.
It's a pretty heavy camera, but I don't have much trouble using it as a walk around camera. It's no rollei in the size/weight department, but I find the interchangeable lenses and bellows make up for that.
It's a pretty heavy camera, but I don't have much trouble using it as a walk around camera. It's no rollei in the size/weight department, but I find the interchangeable lenses and bellows make up for that.
marek_
Established
I got myself a C2 about three months ago and it's become my camera of choice. The C2 was the second Mamiyaflex model - one of the heaviest but the smallest size wise, if I'm correct. I haven't a problem with the weight - actually compared to an Ikoflex I was using before - which I found too lite, the extra weight of the Mamiyaflex helps when composing a shot and keeps the camera steady. Just get a nice thick strap and you'll be fine.
These cameras have a nice mechanical feel with knobs, levers and switches. I find my C2 easy to use and quite ergonomic. Enjoy using yours.
These cameras have a nice mechanical feel with knobs, levers and switches. I find my C2 easy to use and quite ergonomic. Enjoy using yours.
Mackinaw
Think Different
I opted for a C220 mainly because it was about a pound lighter than a C330. Of course the C330 does more things.
As for handling, I find using a standard camera "L" bracket the ticket for easier handling. For me, much easier to handle the camera with the bracket attached than holding the bare camera in my hand.
Jim B.
As for handling, I find using a standard camera "L" bracket the ticket for easier handling. For me, much easier to handle the camera with the bracket attached than holding the bare camera in my hand.
Jim B.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
I've been a C330f owner for almost 30 years now. It's a different critter from an M-2 for sure, but the basic controls are the same, focus, shutter speed, aperture. They're just in completely different places. It's hard to break something in normal use. Just don't try to force anything.
Tips:
When you change lenses, make sure that the film is advanced and the shutter cocked before you remove the lens. Cock the shutter of the new lens before you put it on. No, it doesn't have to be advanced/cocked, but if you're not consistent about this, you'll eventually get either a blank frame, or you'll make a double exposure. The key is make sure the lens you put on is in the same state as the lens you took off.
I have found (on more than one 330F sample) that a little pressure on the shutter release can activate the double exposure prevention long before the shutter actually releases. I keep the switch set to 'multi' all the time and advance film immediately after exposure.
I typically use this camera bolted to a tripod. I'm happiest with my photos that way. Recently I've been trying it out with a trigger grip and the pentaprism. My opinion is mixed so far.
The 80 and 135 are both good sharp lenses based on my samples. I've heard internet stories of the 135 being not that sharp. I have two and no complaints. I tend to use middle apertures for all my photos unless there's a good reason to stop down farther. I don't use them wide open very often. See my comment about a tripod.
Lens hoods are a wonderful thing. The official Mamiya clamp on hood for the 80 is also fine on the 135 providing both are the black shutter lenses. If you can't find the Mamiya hood, a round screw in hood also works well. I like rigid metal hoods. 46mm is a bit hard to find, 49mm with a step up ring is easier.
Tips:
When you change lenses, make sure that the film is advanced and the shutter cocked before you remove the lens. Cock the shutter of the new lens before you put it on. No, it doesn't have to be advanced/cocked, but if you're not consistent about this, you'll eventually get either a blank frame, or you'll make a double exposure. The key is make sure the lens you put on is in the same state as the lens you took off.
I have found (on more than one 330F sample) that a little pressure on the shutter release can activate the double exposure prevention long before the shutter actually releases. I keep the switch set to 'multi' all the time and advance film immediately after exposure.
I typically use this camera bolted to a tripod. I'm happiest with my photos that way. Recently I've been trying it out with a trigger grip and the pentaprism. My opinion is mixed so far.
The 80 and 135 are both good sharp lenses based on my samples. I've heard internet stories of the 135 being not that sharp. I have two and no complaints. I tend to use middle apertures for all my photos unless there's a good reason to stop down farther. I don't use them wide open very often. See my comment about a tripod.
Lens hoods are a wonderful thing. The official Mamiya clamp on hood for the 80 is also fine on the 135 providing both are the black shutter lenses. If you can't find the Mamiya hood, a round screw in hood also works well. I like rigid metal hoods. 46mm is a bit hard to find, 49mm with a step up ring is easier.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
Photo.net has a system summary written in the late 90's by some clown named Rosenlof. It may have some other tips that you might find useful.
http://photo.net/equipment/mamiya/tlr
http://photo.net/equipment/mamiya/tlr
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
I think Chris and Mike hit the high points. Some cameras become classic because they do something for the first time or better than anyone else (e.g. Rolleiflex). Others become classic because they do so many things well (e.g. Speed Graphic, Nikon F). I think the Mamiyas fit into the second category. If you are used to the Rollei, you probably have the two main mental adjustments from 35mm land down: the left-right/horizon adjustment when using a TLR and the slower method of working. I predict that you will get used to the built in macro feature quickly -- you can just get so much closer to your subject than you can with a Rolleiflex. If the weight is not a problem, you also might consider a string based support system: attach a bit of sturdy twine 3-4-ft. long to a 1/4" screw and attach to the tripod mount, step on the bottom of the twine and pull up until the line is taught. This eliminates at least one axis of camera shake for slow exposures, weighs hardly anything and wraps up to fit in a pocket when not in use.
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bobbyrab
Well-known
Before you buy check the bellows for light leaks, it's a very robust camera as it's mechanically very simple, but the bellows can be a bit scruffy.
21-135 Apo All Good
Established
I started medium format with a Yashica D around 44 years ago.
Mamiya C-2 was a gift from my Dad & his cousin. First 80mm was a used chrome F2.8 (not multi-coated). Lens cost $49.00 back in early 71-72. Had the Paramender since then, works great!
Also had a C-220 for years, along with a black 65mm, black 80mm, chrome 105mm, as well as a 250mm F6.3 black lens. Both pentaprism (Prisim) and the darker Porrofinder. Had the pistol grip for the C-220 with built-in cable release.
Found two C-330's years ago at Camera Shows, one "F" and the newer "S" as well. Found a Brightscreen for the 330's...what a JOY to use! My best advice is to practice with ALL of the releases, and if you get the prisim, try to find the real C-330 pistol grip, OR find a medium format graphlex bracket with quick release button. Or an old "Jones" strobe bracket that holds a "potato masher" strobe right above the prisim finder. If you practice and you're good, you'd be surprised how slow shutter speeds can be done w/o any shake!
As far as handling without a bracket: use thumb release with the waist level finder, or focus with the magnifier, then flip it up & out of the way and just use the sports finder portion of the waist level along with the front release. You can even get creative and use the sports finder upside down with the camera held over your head, or use the waist level all of the way down on the ground.
Lenses are pretty sharp closed down 1-2 stops! I used to shoot wrestling back in high school (76-77) with the 250mm at F8-11 (one stop closed down) and make really crisp 8x10's no problem!
I kept my C-220's & C-330's on "Single" and always cocked the lens prior to mounting. Focus scale works, and so does exposure scales for each lens!
As far as what you can do with them, it's only far to say that they can accomplish more than any other camera out of the box! A dream to load. Switch the pressure plate and shoot 220 length film and the film indicator switches as you turn the pressure plate...those Japanese at Mamiya thought of everything! One more tip: when closing the back click one side and then the other, so you hear both clicks independent of each other. More positive engagement of the back & less wear & tear.
As with any bellows camera, the bellows needs "worked" once in a while to keep it in tip-top shape. Lock on focus wheel is great for aerials when set at infinity OR for close-ups with the paramender (yes, you need one, cause they're so COOL & fun to use!).
Good luck with your C-330!
Dave
Mamiya C-2 was a gift from my Dad & his cousin. First 80mm was a used chrome F2.8 (not multi-coated). Lens cost $49.00 back in early 71-72. Had the Paramender since then, works great!
Also had a C-220 for years, along with a black 65mm, black 80mm, chrome 105mm, as well as a 250mm F6.3 black lens. Both pentaprism (Prisim) and the darker Porrofinder. Had the pistol grip for the C-220 with built-in cable release.
Found two C-330's years ago at Camera Shows, one "F" and the newer "S" as well. Found a Brightscreen for the 330's...what a JOY to use! My best advice is to practice with ALL of the releases, and if you get the prisim, try to find the real C-330 pistol grip, OR find a medium format graphlex bracket with quick release button. Or an old "Jones" strobe bracket that holds a "potato masher" strobe right above the prisim finder. If you practice and you're good, you'd be surprised how slow shutter speeds can be done w/o any shake!
As far as handling without a bracket: use thumb release with the waist level finder, or focus with the magnifier, then flip it up & out of the way and just use the sports finder portion of the waist level along with the front release. You can even get creative and use the sports finder upside down with the camera held over your head, or use the waist level all of the way down on the ground.
Lenses are pretty sharp closed down 1-2 stops! I used to shoot wrestling back in high school (76-77) with the 250mm at F8-11 (one stop closed down) and make really crisp 8x10's no problem!
I kept my C-220's & C-330's on "Single" and always cocked the lens prior to mounting. Focus scale works, and so does exposure scales for each lens!
As far as what you can do with them, it's only far to say that they can accomplish more than any other camera out of the box! A dream to load. Switch the pressure plate and shoot 220 length film and the film indicator switches as you turn the pressure plate...those Japanese at Mamiya thought of everything! One more tip: when closing the back click one side and then the other, so you hear both clicks independent of each other. More positive engagement of the back & less wear & tear.
As with any bellows camera, the bellows needs "worked" once in a while to keep it in tip-top shape. Lock on focus wheel is great for aerials when set at infinity OR for close-ups with the paramender (yes, you need one, cause they're so COOL & fun to use!).
Good luck with your C-330!
Dave