xxloverxx
Shoot.
About to relieve my friend of a Mamiya Pro-TL (645) with a Sekor-C 80 2.8 & power winder.
Anything I should beware of before I take it to Europe?
Anything I should beware of before I take it to Europe?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
It takes an unusual 6 volt battery that is becoming somewhat hard to find in the USA, and may be so in the place you're visiting, so you might pick up a spare before you go. The battery lasts a long time, I get about a years use out of one in my 645 Super, which is very similar to the Pro-TL and uses the same battery. Still, better keep one with you in case the one in it is nearing its end. The Winder on my Super is different than the one that was sold for the Pro-TL. Mine takes 6 AA batteries and goes through them somewhat fast. You might keep extras of whatever batteries your winder takes just in case.
Aside from that I cannot think of anything. It is a very reliable camera that makes beautiful photographs. Much of my best work was done with mine.
Aside from that I cannot think of anything. It is a very reliable camera that makes beautiful photographs. Much of my best work was done with mine.
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
It's sorta loud. But, it handles very nicely.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
The 6V can be replaced by four L76/S76 button cells (or two of the Li cells built to replace the common 2x76 configuration), so you are not SOL if the 6V runs out far from a good electronics or camera store.
The Pro/TL is the last of the manual focus modular M645 series, and the best, where most bugs from the Super (which was rather prone to electronics failures) and Pro have been fixed. It feels more flimsy than the original M645/1000s as the outer metal casing had been replaced by plastics, but in my experience (and I've been using them all professionally since the early eighties) it is no less reliable.
The Pro/TL is the last of the manual focus modular M645 series, and the best, where most bugs from the Super (which was rather prone to electronics failures) and Pro have been fixed. It feels more flimsy than the original M645/1000s as the outer metal casing had been replaced by plastics, but in my experience (and I've been using them all professionally since the early eighties) it is no less reliable.
Steve M.
Veteran
NEVER take a camera on a trip that you haven't used, and know works 100%. Trust me.
imokruok
Well-known
The Pro TL is a tough SOB. Mine was heavily used professionally, but functions like it's new.
I have the power grip as well, but ended up taking it off of the camera and getting the manual crank. The power grip is noisy, heavy, and adds a lot of bulk to the camera. If you are able to get your hands on the manual crank before you go - and don't think you'll need a power winder - I think the lighter/quieter package is worth giving up the automatic winder.
I have the power grip as well, but ended up taking it off of the camera and getting the manual crank. The power grip is noisy, heavy, and adds a lot of bulk to the camera. If you are able to get your hands on the manual crank before you go - and don't think you'll need a power winder - I think the lighter/quieter package is worth giving up the automatic winder.
xxloverxx
Shoot.
Of course — I'm going to put a test roll through it before I leave. Thanks for the reminder
I think the manual crank is included
I'd held my grandpa's 645 with power winder before and nearly caused a few injuries to myself (wasn't expecting it to be THAT heavy), but that was many years ago. Still…travel light.Good to know, thanks!
Any comments on the lens & the split screen vs grid? Note that I'm going to be using the WLF and that the grid screen has a small scratch on it (not a big deal really)
The package has a body that doesn't work for free, so I get spare parts, 2nd 120 back and screen for free (a deal I don't think I'll ever find again…)
kuzano
Veteran
Check with MAC Group on battery limitations.
Check with MAC Group on battery limitations.
There use to be a very active Mamiya 645 forum on MAC Group, which I think is no longer accessible.
I do recall that there is a strong warning against Lithium batteries in the Super and/or the Pro.
I had a Super that succumbed to the chronic poor elctronics situation, but never had a problem with a Pro. Never used Lithium batteries in any of the models.
Great cameras.. the M645's before the Super and the Pro, after the Super.
Just checked the manual on the Pro TL... the lithiium batteries are listed as approved, along with Silver Oxide. I always used the Silver Oxide.
Wanted to add that footnote...
Check with MAC Group on battery limitations.
There use to be a very active Mamiya 645 forum on MAC Group, which I think is no longer accessible.
I do recall that there is a strong warning against Lithium batteries in the Super and/or the Pro.
I had a Super that succumbed to the chronic poor elctronics situation, but never had a problem with a Pro. Never used Lithium batteries in any of the models.
Great cameras.. the M645's before the Super and the Pro, after the Super.
Just checked the manual on the Pro TL... the lithiium batteries are listed as approved, along with Silver Oxide. I always used the Silver Oxide.
Wanted to add that footnote...
Last edited:
xxloverxx
Shoot.
Thanks for the info. Which batteries last longer (or have you literally always used only Silver Oxide batteries?)
xxloverxx
Shoot.
Oh yes…how weather resistant are these cameras? I'm not expecting F4-level resistance of course, but against light drizzle & general dirt (possibly sand)?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I've taken my Super in the rain multiple times over the 16 yrs I have had it with no problems. I always took the lens, prism, and back off and let it dry after each use in the rain, as some water does seem to creep in between the back and the body and under the prism. I may not have been careful enough though; I recently found fungus growing in my 80mm f1.9N lens
imokruok
Well-known
Weather-resistant, yes. But keep in mind it's a camera system with attachments, so it has parts that fit together with seams. (the back, the winder, the prism, the lens, etc.) These seams are light tight, but not water tight. Water might get in, but at least you can take it apart to dry it out if necessary.
With my gear, I take the risk of oil drying out and just go for sheer drying power. All of my lenses and bodies go into a dry box with desiccant when I'm done using them. If you're traveling, it doesn't hurt to keep some desiccant in your camera bag too.
David R Munson
写真のオタク
I cannot speak favorably enough about the 645 Pro/Pro TL. Great cameras, reliable, durable, etc. I killed about five M645 1000s bodies, but have used the same Pro body for about the last six years with no problems. Fantastic camera. I say go for it.
Chris101
summicronia
I have both those screens, and I find that I like the grid best with the WLF. It's hard enough to keep everything lined up correctly with right and left reversed, so the lines just help me keep things level and square. If you use the magnifier, you will not have any problem seeing the focus with it.
kuzano
Veteran
I've always used the Silver Oxides. They last very long (1.5-2 yrs)
It occurred to me that the early Lithiums may have been too hot for the earlier Mamiya bodies. I keep a volt meter handy and test my batteries regularly. When I did test early Lithiums it seemed they delivered more power than required by various devices.
So, at that time, I chose to stay pretty much with Silver Oxides, or Wein Cells in other older camera's that used the XP625 mercury batteries.
Perhaps Lithiums have better starting volts and are more stable now????
xxloverxx
Shoot.
Thanks for all the comments!
Now to wait 6-10 days…
Now to wait 6-10 days…
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Well, earlier Mamiya bodies precede the general availability of 2CR1/3 batteries, so it is no wonder that they are not mentioned in the manual.
They always worked fine on the original M645/1000s, which were, like the 645Super, specified for both silver oxide (6.2V constant) and alkaline (6V rapidly dropping) - to cope with the latter, it must inevitably be good enough for lithium, which are 6V constant at typical drain levels, right in between silver oxide and alkalines. Some lesser Mamiyas (J, original 645) were specified for silver oxide only, which could mean that Mamiya left out the stabilizer used on the higher priced alkaline-ready versions, but even then these should perform well enough on lithiums.
My guess is that people were generally cautious in using unspecified batteries, and a bit scared of using lithiums on the Super with its notoriously flawed PCB, as they mis-interpreted the explosive failure characteristics of lithiums as them having a higher current and hence the capability to create more damage on failing Super circuits. At least at that time, silver oxides still were higher current than lithiums, so that that is not justified. At any rate beyond some extra risk of extra battery compartment damage - lithiums can indeed have a hotter finish when short circuited, as a battery disintegrating due to short-circuit overheating may expose flammable lithium to the air.
Last edited: