Mitsudomoe
Newbie
Hi all,
I have been developing various kind of films in Rodinal for the past 2 months, learning a lot and always amazed by the results.
I developed last week a roll of expired Rollei Superpan 200 and got weird white/milky streaks across all the last third part of the film.
That's a shame because although being very curly, I really liked the results in Rodinal.
My process was :
Pre-soak 30min => water very black then blue
R09 1/50 in 300ml => 17 min, agitated 1st min then every 10s
Ilfostop1/19 in 300ml => 3 min, agitated every 10s
Ilford rapid fixer 1/4 dans 300 ml => 5 min, agitated every 10s
I did have difficulties to place the film on the reel (stainless tank)
Where could the streaks come from ?
Thanks for your help
I have been developing various kind of films in Rodinal for the past 2 months, learning a lot and always amazed by the results.
I developed last week a roll of expired Rollei Superpan 200 and got weird white/milky streaks across all the last third part of the film.
That's a shame because although being very curly, I really liked the results in Rodinal.
My process was :
Pre-soak 30min => water very black then blue
R09 1/50 in 300ml => 17 min, agitated 1st min then every 10s
Ilfostop1/19 in 300ml => 3 min, agitated every 10s
Ilford rapid fixer 1/4 dans 300 ml => 5 min, agitated every 10s
I did have difficulties to place the film on the reel (stainless tank)
Where could the streaks come from ?
Thanks for your help
Attachments
Johnmcd
Well-known
It looks like that part of the film was against another part of the film stopping it from getting the chemicals uniformly. Unfortunately a loading issue. This can happen more easily with a steel reel if you are not careful.
Hope this helps.
Cheers - John
Hope this helps.
Cheers - John
hidejoshi
film user
Film was bad loaded into tank. Was sticking together. You can try use fixer again. Direct in basket on light. But pictures are out.
Mitsudomoe
Newbie
Thanks for your answers, that's what I was guessing. This Superpan 200 is not an easy one to load. Time to invest in a paterson tank then !
Johnmcd
Well-known
Try a Jobo 1520. I find it the best for me. It doesn't have those little ball bearings that hinder rather than help. I find that I can just 'push' both 35mm and 120mm onto the reel with little effort, even thin base film. If it gets humid in summer (in the bag), I can advance the film by its edge with forefinger and thumb as the jobo reel has a cut-out section.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/25556-REG/Jobo_J1520_Two_Reel_Film_Tank_1520.html
They are not made anymore (as far as I can make out) but they come up regularly on ebay etc. I purchased a couple of spares as old new stock.
Hope this helps - John
julio1fer
Well-known
The milky look comes from unfixed film. That whitish material is the silver haliide. It was not reached by fixer. The bad news is that it was not wet with developer either, so probably that part of the image is lost.
Mitsudomoe
Newbie
Thanks all. I'll try to find myself a belated christmas present then.
JChrome
Street Worker
The milky stains could be from you just getting too excited about your photos...
Sorry, I just had to.
Sorry, I just had to.
elmarman
Bail out the Brits too !
Is it correct that you gave a 30 Minute pre-soak ? !!! That is Half an HOUR !
If pre-soak is used I never give more than ONE MINUTE !
If pre-soak is used I never give more than ONE MINUTE !
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
The film did not thread onto the spool, but stuck together. Nothing much to do, as it appears to have happened in loading - the afflicted areas are neither developed nor fixed, and as they've been exposed to light, it is now too late to repeat it.
By the way: When using a slow developer (that takes a whopping 17 minutes), there is no sane reason to pre-soak at all, even less so for half an hour - stick to less than a minute of pre-soak, and even that only where your development time is shorter than three minutes! Pre-soaking increases the risk of washing off the emulsion, as it already softens the film before it goes into the (inherently dangerous) alkaline developer.
By the way: When using a slow developer (that takes a whopping 17 minutes), there is no sane reason to pre-soak at all, even less so for half an hour - stick to less than a minute of pre-soak, and even that only where your development time is shorter than three minutes! Pre-soaking increases the risk of washing off the emulsion, as it already softens the film before it goes into the (inherently dangerous) alkaline developer.
leicapixie
Well-known
I hate plastic reels.
Slight damp and do not load.
I have used steel reels Nikor only!
Those cheap Chinese reels, do what we see here..
Loading a steel reel is easy.
Practice with a piece of film..in the light, later in dark.
If getting on a problem do it with leader in light!
Then use change bag or dark room.
As i feed the film, i sort of pull back and "feel" if it's not sticking.
A lil backwards, forwards movement.
Sounds tricky, but easy.
Steel easy to wash thoroughly.
Vinegar, hot water get rid of fixer, developer deposits.
Slight damp and do not load.
I have used steel reels Nikor only!
Those cheap Chinese reels, do what we see here..
Loading a steel reel is easy.
Practice with a piece of film..in the light, later in dark.
If getting on a problem do it with leader in light!
Then use change bag or dark room.
As i feed the film, i sort of pull back and "feel" if it's not sticking.
A lil backwards, forwards movement.
Sounds tricky, but easy.
Steel easy to wash thoroughly.
Vinegar, hot water get rid of fixer, developer deposits.
Last edited:
Fotohuis
Well-known
I also recommend the Jobo tanks and reels. For small inverse development and one 135-36 film: 1510 (250ml). For 2x 135-36 or 2x 120/ 1x 220 roll film: 1520 (485ml).
The trick is to have dry plastic/Makrolon reels. When humidity comes in they won't load anymore.
For high dilutions and more films: 1540 (910ml). 1540 = 1510 tank + 1530 extension.
Good luck for the next film!
The trick is to have dry plastic/Makrolon reels. When humidity comes in they won't load anymore.
For high dilutions and more films: 1540 (910ml). 1540 = 1510 tank + 1530 extension.
Good luck for the next film!