EBlz
Newbie
Hi everyone,
Just received this 1937 Contax III, listed as parts. It arrived as anything but, the self timer works after a few actuations, unlike what the listing stated, and after repeatedly releasing the shutter, the sticking of the second curtain has improved, and all the fast speeds seem perfectly fine (the slow speeds seem to be slightly off, but I'll still do my due diligence and get them properly checked.) Even the meter is working perfectly. However, I am confused by this attachment on the lower right front attached by screws; it certainly isn't from the factory, but could it be aftermarket flash sync? Neither look like PC sync, but maybe it was installed before that was the universal standard? (Pictures from the original listing)
Thanks so much for the assistance, hope someone knows what it is!
-E
Just received this 1937 Contax III, listed as parts. It arrived as anything but, the self timer works after a few actuations, unlike what the listing stated, and after repeatedly releasing the shutter, the sticking of the second curtain has improved, and all the fast speeds seem perfectly fine (the slow speeds seem to be slightly off, but I'll still do my due diligence and get them properly checked.) Even the meter is working perfectly. However, I am confused by this attachment on the lower right front attached by screws; it certainly isn't from the factory, but could it be aftermarket flash sync? Neither look like PC sync, but maybe it was installed before that was the universal standard? (Pictures from the original listing)
Thanks so much for the assistance, hope someone knows what it is!
-E
It looks like a Flash connection has been added. The contacts are not standard PC type, but a dual-post. I've seen ones like this.
You could try using an Ohm Meter to see if it works. See if the circuit closes when the shutter is released.
You could try using an Ohm Meter to see if it works. See if the circuit closes when the shutter is released.
dexdog
Veteran
I agree with Sonnar Brian, an aftermarket flash sync has been added. Not that unusual with older cameras.
TenEleven
Well-known
That's a well used Contax III. Contrary to internet-myth the chroming on the II and III models is quite hard wearing, it's not as "bling" as the IIa and IIIa models, but usually its quite tough. The quality of the chroming did take a nose-dive for the war-time cameras though, but your model isn't.
And yeah the flash-sync is aftermarket. Likely even from the period the camera was made (pre-war or immediately thereafter).
Edit: Personal anecdote, I have a II which has been "Winogrand"-ed, aka it was used so much that the (light? or friction?) burned an after image of the outline of 35mm film and the sproket holes into the pressure plate. Externally it looks just a little bit worn. Except from the ribbons, which will want replacing every 3-5 decades, these cameras are actually quite though
And yeah the flash-sync is aftermarket. Likely even from the period the camera was made (pre-war or immediately thereafter).
Edit: Personal anecdote, I have a II which has been "Winogrand"-ed, aka it was used so much that the (light? or friction?) burned an after image of the outline of 35mm film and the sproket holes into the pressure plate. Externally it looks just a little bit worn. Except from the ribbons, which will want replacing every 3-5 decades, these cameras are actually quite though
Muggins
Junk magnet
Yes, dual post flash connectors like that (to no obvious standard) lasted into the late 1950s if Kodak's flash-equipped Brownies are anything to go by.
TenEleven
Well-known
Well it's the "universal" standard - two stripped-back wires and a bit of twisting and you're good. No bleeding adapters or incompatibilities to worry about!
Muggins
Junk magnet
...and 90-odd volts if you get it wrong, even more if the capacitor gets you!
TenEleven
Well-known
I've zapped myself in the eyeball with a 270 or so volts vivitar and lived.... it was not enjoyable... but it also is not the insta-death the internet purports it to be.
Just don't put these on your digital camera ...mmmkay
Ideally one does the wiring up before stuff is live
Edit: Explaining this to my optometrist when I next visited, just in case to check if I had done myself something stupid was fun. "Excuse me, you what?!"
EBlz
Newbie
Yes, mint it certainly is not. Even the front of the curtain has green oxidation, and the back is covered with a plethora of Zeiss bumps. But I am surprised by how well the camera internally has taken the past 88 years, it looks like it hasn't been serviced in decades yet the ribbons are fine and the focus is perfectly dampened and smooth. However, it seems to have already developed another quirk; sometimes the advance locks after firing and requires a press of the shutter to disengage before winding on to the next frame. Compared to my IIA Color Dial, it feels a bit more "premium", with the heft and fit and finish, and the focusing is certainly smoother, but I don't trust the shutter in the slightest. If it arrived with gummed up speeds, there's no indicator it will live for long. Also, slow speeds are definitely slow; about half as fast as they should be. Anyone stateside service the II for an affordable amount? (I have heard Oleg is good, but I assume he uses Kievs for spare parts.)
Timmyjoe
Veteran
And don't hook them up to current light meters. I fried the flash circuitry of a new-ish Sekonic 308 with a Vivitar 283. My old Sekonic 308 from 1992 handled the 283 fine, but it fried the newer one.
Best,
-Tim
TenEleven
Well-known
The wind being locked even after you (carefully) trip the shutter is a common issue on gummed-up Contax II. There is a cammed lever that rides in a slot around the wind knob assy that unlocks the advance once the shutter has been pressed. It has been set by the factory (by bending I believe) so that it perfectly coincides with the shutter releasing.
However as grease and dirt builds up on the slot that it rides in the angle the lever has to be deflected increases - meaning that you now have to push the shutter all the way through (past firing) to get it to release. A clean of that part, or even better a CLA - resolves that issue 100%.
It's the "L" shaped lever with the spring on it around the wind and shutter assembly to the very right.
The red circle is unrelated as I just filched this image from the excellent "TunnelBlog" who has several excellent entries on camera repair, here: 1937 Zeiss Ikon ~ Contax II CLA | TunnelBlog!
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Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
That looks like the male side of the 2-post connector I used to have for a Graflex flashgun. There were a bunch of different connectors they offered, but that 2-post is the standard for a 4x5 Speed Graphic, if I recall correctly.
Phil
Phil