Leica LTM My first Leica

[cosmonaut]

I have a Leica IIIa with a 5cm lens on the way and should be here next week. Any newbie advise? Like changing the shutter speed before winding ect?

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Be sure to properly trim back the film leader before loading. It really has to be trimmed as shown, or the shutter can hang up.

The Leica's will not break if you set the speed before winding, it's just not obvious what you've set the speed to.

I just had Youxin Ye CLA my Leica III. Put in a new beamsplitter. It is smooth as butter.

 

[brachal]

Can't add much to what Brian's said. There's a seller on ebay who had ABLON film template copies for sale at very reasonable prices -- love mine. I've added a small leatherman SQUIRT tool to my kit. It has a small, sharp knife for trimming leaders, and sometimes the pliers help getting the take-up spool out. I've got fat fingers, so jamming them in there far enough to grab the spool is occasionally an issue.

I would emphasise that you should trim the leader! It's easy, and I've never had a problem loading film. When I read about people taking off the lens, stuffing a business card into the camera, etc, it boggles my mind. Takes about 20 seconds to properly trim the leader, and the camera loads like it's designed to. If I'm going out for a long day, I'll trim 3 or 4 rolls before I leave the house.

 

[cosmonaut]

Now that I have it in hand I see what you are saying about the shutter speed. I will have to look up how to trim the film. If it is more than just cutting the leader off. Thanks for our help. Never holding a Leica in my hands before I am amazed at the craftsmanship. Mine was CLAed two years ago, when should I send it out and to who?

 

[Peter_Jones]

Not so much cutting the leader off but making the leader longer. I find it easy to load an untrimmed film in the comfort of my own home, but trimming is preferable when out & about. If you have a lab dev. the film, make sure they know you've trimmed the leader or they may think the film is damaged if they have not experienced this before.

I have used the "card" method but it's not for everyone, I wouldn't like to do it with cold hands for instance, as it depends on feel - any damage could be potentially expensive.

 

[Graybeard]

Loading Barnack Leicas and cutting leaders is always a popular topic here.

I've been using Barnack Leicas since 1963 and offer these suggestions-

1) A guide for cutting the leader isn't at all necessary and in my view, a nuisance - I've had one for forty years and stopped attempting to use it a long time ago.

You can cut a perfectly useful leader with a pair of scissors.

2) The important things are to make the leader long enough, make your cut pass between two sprocket holes rather than into a sprocket hole, and make the cut smooth, without a rough point that can catch on the film gate.

 

[crawdiddy]

Loading Barnack Leicas and cutting leaders is always a popular topic here.

I've been using Barnack Leicas since 1963 and offer these suggestions-

1) A guide for cutting the leader isn't at all necessary and in my view, a nuisance - I've had one for forty years and stopped attempting to use it a long time ago.

You can cut a perfectly useful leader with a pair of scissors.

2) The important things are to make the leader long enough, make your cut pass between two sprocket holes rather than into a sprocket hole, and make the cut smooth, without a rough point that can catch on the film gate.

Interesting info, Graybeard. I've just had my IIIf for about 6 weeks now. So far, I've been using the procedure that involves removing the lens, and opening the shutter on Bulb, and sticking my fingers through the front.

About how much do you need to extend the leader by? In terms of how many sprocket-holes, for instance?

 

[Graybeard]

Interesting info, Graybeard. I've just had my IIIf for about 6 weeks now. So far, I've been using the procedure that involves removing the lens, and opening the shutter on Bulb, and sticking my fingers through the front.

About how much do you need to extend the leader by? In terms of how many sprocket-holes, for instance?

The leader should be about four to four and a quarter inches long - I don't think I've ever counted the sprocket holes myself. You're trying to get a long smooth taper that will just slide across the film gate and seat the holes on the advance sprocket.

Given that you're now using a pretty awkward methnod of loading (IMHO) why not try using a business card? Open the bottom of the camera and gently slide a business card between the film gate and pressure plate. Load the film onto the take up reel using the short leader that the film manufacturer gave you then slide the cassette and take-up reel into the camera WITH THE FILM GOING BEWTEEN THE BUSINESS CARD AND THE PRESSURE PLATE. Wind the film so that the leader is past the film gate then gently slide the card out of the camera. Advance the film just a little bit, if necessary to line up the holes with the sprocket teeth and you're set.

 

[brachal]

Now that I have it in hand I see what you are saying about the shutter speed. I will have to look up how to trim the film. If it is more than just cutting the leader off. Thanks for our help. Never holding a Leica in my hands before I am amazed at the craftsmanship. Mine was CLAed two years ago, when should I send it out and to who?

The leader should be longer than on a modern film. If you google "leica leader" or similar, something should come up that will show you what it's supposed to look like. Or check out the "loading a leica" sticky above. A metal template isn't at all necessary, but it may make things easier for you starting out. I like mine.

If it had a CLA 2 years ago, it should be fine. If your exposures are off or uneven, or if the camera feels rough, or if the shutter sounds "geary" or "grindy" you should probably send it for a CLA. I've used Youxin Ye (google him), and was extremely pleased -- first rate!

 

[shadowfox]

I just got mine a couple weeks ago, I don't find the need for any specialized tools or tricks, just scissors to extend the length of the leader until approx. 20 sprocket holes. End the cut between sprocket holes.

Slide the film and the spool together, then rotate the spool slowly until the sprocket holes are caught on the teeth. Simple!

 

[crawdiddy]

The leader should be about four to four and a quarter inches long - I don't think I've ever counted the sprocket holes myself. You're trying to get a long smooth taper that will just slide across the film gate and seat the holes on the advance sprocket.

Given that you're now using a pretty awkward methnod of loading (IMHO) why not try using a business card? Open the bottom of the camera and gently slide a business card between the film gate and pressure plate. Load the film onto the take up reel using the short leader that the film manufacturer gave you then slide the cassette and take-up reel into the camera WITH THE FILM GOING BEWTEEN THE BUSINESS CARD AND THE PRESSURE PLATE. Wind the film so that the leader is past the film gate then gently slide the card out of the camera. Advance the film just a little bit, if necessary to line up the holes with the sprocket teeth and you're set.

I've read others on RFF who discourage the fingers and business card methods, because of "delicate pressure plate springs." Any comments? Are they really so delicate?

 

[Peter_Jones]

I think they'd have to be at the point of breaking, or you'd have to be very heavy-handed to cause any damage.

 

[crawdiddy]

I think they'd have to be at the point of breaking, or you'd have to be very heavy-handed to cause any damage.

My thoughts exactly. Just wondered if I was missing something.

 

[crawdiddy]

I just got mine a couple weeks ago, I don't find the need for any specialized tools or tricks, just scissors to extend the length of the leader until approx. 20 sprocket holes. End the cut between sprocket holes.

Slide the film and the spool together, then rotate the spool slowly until the sprocket holes are caught on the teeth. Simple!

So, 20 sprocket holes, huh? Perfect. I'll try that. Thanks Will!

 

[thomasw_]

I recommend 22 or 24 sprocket holes just to be sure. YMMV of course

 

[wolves3012]

I've read others on RFF who discourage the fingers and business card methods, because of "delicate pressure plate springs." Any comments? Are they really so delicate?

Yes and no. Using a card to guide the film in puts a lot of pressure on the plate springs, pressure they were not designed for. You risk flattening them and consequently reducing the pressure they exert on the film that keeps in within the guide rails. Too weak and the film can ride out of the gate and get tangled in the innards. I have a FED 1 (granted not a Leica, but essentially the same in this area) which appears to have suffered in this way. I had to re-tension the springs and yes, they are indeed quite delicate.

So, you're out somewhere and run out of film. Take off the lens, hmmm...now where are you going to put it safely? Now, out with the card, insert it, cock the shutter, set it on B (T if you're lucky enough to have it). Open the shutter and keep it open somehow. Stuff the film in, poke your greasy fingers into the camera and try and wiggle that film into place. More pressure on the plate. Check it's loaded, re-attach lens from wherever "safe" you put it.

Alternatively, load the camera as the designer intended. Insert trimmed film correctly and you can have the job done in 30 seconds. No risk to the pressure plate, no fumbling with the lens-in-pocket and no fiddling trying to hold the shutter open. No-brainer in my opinion. Try it, it's very easy!

Would you empty the oil from your car by tipping it upside down, or would you get the right spanner and undo the drain-plug?

Trimming a film takes 20 seconds, trim a few before you leave home. If you don't use them, fine, ready for next time or they still go in another camera without a problem.

Rant over....

 

[BillP]

I keep a small Swiss Army knife on my keyring for trimming purposes.

I am left-handed, and I think that this is one of the areas where us Sinistrals have an inbuilt advantage. I run out a length of leader (sprocket counting is for wimps) and I hold the end of the leader by my forefinger and thumb, and the canister by the ring- and little fingers against the heel of my right hand, emulsion side down. I trim with a steady sweep of the scissors on the knife, held into a Vee shape. I have never had a problem, or a misload, doing it this way.

Regards,

Bill

 

[shadowfox]

I recommend 22 or 24 sprocket holes just to be sure. YMMV of course

I eyeballed the distance needed between the spool inside the cavity and the film canister then I count the sprockets, that's how I got 20 but 22-24 is good also.

I just want to echo wolves' rant, just trim the leader, it's easier and ... well, easier

 

[Luddite Frank]

I pinch the free end of the film between my left thumb and base of my index finger (left), and with my right hand holding the cassette, draw out enough film until the cassette just passes the pinky-edge of my left palm; essentially, I'm drawing-out "four fingers-worth" of film. ( In terms of glove-size, I need at least a "large").

This is close enough to the minimum legnth needed, and is about twice as long as the factory-cut leader.

I then take my scissors, and starting at the edge of the film, next to the mouth of the cassette, cut in at angle, between two sprocket-holes, towards the center of the film, trying to get smooth curve with no jagged edges or "snips". I continue the cut until it reaches the factory leader cut.

It is VERY IMPORTANT not to have any jagged edges or "snips" where the film flares-out to full width: these can catch in the edge of the film "gate", with part of the film winding onto the take-up spool , and the other part getting wound into the shutter curtains :bang: ... this happened on the second roll I shot in a 'new' Leica F (1933).

You will hear guys tell of just tearing the leader with their bare hands, or teeth; this is an advanced trick to be used only when you have no other choice ! Don't start out this way...

When I buy film, I usually get it in the mulit-pack (four or six rolls), and I sit down and take 10 minutes and Leica-fy all the leaders before dropping the film into my kit... saves time when I'm out on a mission.

(I forgot to do this with the last multi-pack, and just dumped the new film in my bag. I was out shooting on Saturday, and needed to re-load in a hurry, and discovered I had no prepped film, and no scissors... so I did the "teeth & tear" trick... it wasn't pretty, but it worked... ).


Enjoy your Barnack - I've shot more film in the last two months with my screw-mounts than I have in the last ten years !

Luddite Frank

 

[aad]

I do indeed remove the lens/help the film with my thumbs. Since I use the little Elmar almost all the time, I just set the lens on my dashboard (if I'm in the car as usual) or, as on Christmas when I finished the MF portrait session and the kids were running for the sleds, dropped ihe lens in a pocket, the baseplate in another. I imagine having pre-trimmed film might help, but I sure didn't have any.

BTW, the lens-off, thumb method is recommended and used by a very competent, popular and highly praised Leica repair person.