sf
Veteran
This is my second try, actually. I tried once with HP5 and Ilfosol - but the developer was very past date, very very not good.
These pics are all Arista.Edu Ultra 200 in Arista Premium developer, scanned on my trusty Multi Pro at full res as B&W negs. No PS work at all.
Not bad for a first try - and given I had no actual timer. I had to eyeball it from the digital clock on the microwave - no seconds.
The contrast is a little high in some. . . but I'm happy and ready for the next roll!!!
These are the pics. I used them for the first part of my 100mm (unicorn) lens test.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=283676#post283676
These pics are all Arista.Edu Ultra 200 in Arista Premium developer, scanned on my trusty Multi Pro at full res as B&W negs. No PS work at all.
Not bad for a first try - and given I had no actual timer. I had to eyeball it from the digital clock on the microwave - no seconds.
The contrast is a little high in some. . . but I'm happy and ready for the next roll!!!
These are the pics. I used them for the first part of my 100mm (unicorn) lens test.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=283676#post283676
bmattock
Veteran
Congrats! You are now hooked. Cool.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
joshmlevine
Member
Good job, they look great!
What do you think of the Foma/Arista.Edu film, I have been thinking of getting a bulk roll of the stuff?
What do you think of the Foma/Arista.Edu film, I have been thinking of getting a bulk roll of the stuff?
Andy K
Well-known
A wristwatch will suffice for timing development. At a push the timer on an oven or a CD/MP3 player will also work.
joshmlevine
Member
Retro advertise it on their site, so I hope that they actually have some.
I will have a go ordering a roll in the next few days.
Josh
I will have a go ordering a roll in the next few days.
Josh
VinceC
Veteran
As mentioned above, a wristwatch is all you need for time. You could, I suppose, set the microwave timer. Negative density can also be a matter of personal taste. Bakc when I wet printed, I preferred slightly thin negs and printed them kind of contrasty. These days I'd be tempted to go for more tones and less contrast.
kmack
do your job, then let go
The results look good. I have been planning to get some of the Clayton F76+ developer to play with. What kind of agitation did you use here?
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sf
Veteran
kmack said:
Wetted the film fist, agitated it, emptied it, then poured in the developer.
I agitated and thumped it a coupled times, agitated some more, then let it sit for about a minute - then inverted, repeated agitation, another minute of sitting. Total : 7.5 minutes. With agitation every minute and inversion three times. Kind of just winged it.