joefrost
Newbie
My Feds finally arrived!
Both are in great condition for how old they are. The 2(e) is in slightly better condition than the 3.
Here they are resting on my jeans:
I like the looks of the 2 better than the 3. I'm not sure how either does with taking pictures yet. Soon I should know.
I noticed on the 2 the diopter adjustment lever can be pressed down towards the body. Does that adjust anything different?
Could someone explain the operation of the flash-sync dial? And what kind of flashes work with these?
Now if I could only get that musty stench of them!
Joe
Both are in great condition for how old they are. The 2(e) is in slightly better condition than the 3.
Here they are resting on my jeans:
I like the looks of the 2 better than the 3. I'm not sure how either does with taking pictures yet. Soon I should know.
I noticed on the 2 the diopter adjustment lever can be pressed down towards the body. Does that adjust anything different?
Could someone explain the operation of the flash-sync dial? And what kind of flashes work with these?
Now if I could only get that musty stench of them!
Joe
Last edited:
R
r-brian
Guest
Joe
Congratulations.
I received my FED 3b last week. It seems to be a fun camera. will be picking up my first set of prints at lunch. I am also eagerly awaiting the delivery of my baby blue Fed 2. Should be here any day.
Here is a site for Russian rangefinders. An interesting and fun site.
http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/index.html
I know I read something somewhere about the flash sync. If memory serves me, the sync dial adjust the time that the flash fires for flash bulbs. I think the article said to set it to the lowest setting for electronic flashes.
Good luck.
Brian
Congratulations.
I received my FED 3b last week. It seems to be a fun camera. will be picking up my first set of prints at lunch. I am also eagerly awaiting the delivery of my baby blue Fed 2. Should be here any day.
Here is a site for Russian rangefinders. An interesting and fun site.
http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/index.html
I know I read something somewhere about the flash sync. If memory serves me, the sync dial adjust the time that the flash fires for flash bulbs. I think the article said to set it to the lowest setting for electronic flashes.
Good luck.
Brian
doubs43
Well-known
Both cameras appear to be very nice, Joe. I also prefer the looks of the FED-2 as opposed to the 3 but both should take excellent pictures.
Pushing the diopter adjustment down shouldn't make a difference as the slide inside moves back and forth in a set path.
The sync delay dial determines the exact instant that the flash is fired. Bulbs have a rise time, peak time and decay time. The idea is to catch the light at the peak for best exposure. Some bulbs made especially for focal plane shutters have an extended peak time or plateau and sync is set to make the exposure during the plateau period.
I don't have instructions specifically for either camera so can't tell you what the setting is for electronic flash. Remove the back of the camera and look through the shutter opening while facing a blank wall. Set your shutter speed at 1/25th and the sync to zero. Trip the shutter and see if the whole film frame is open when the flash goes off. If not, experiment with the sync settings until you find the correct one.
Tip: Hopefully your flash unit is automatic and can be set for various intensities. Set it for the largest opening possible (f/4?) so that it gives the least light when testing. You don't want to blind yourself when it goes off!
Good luck.
Walker
Pushing the diopter adjustment down shouldn't make a difference as the slide inside moves back and forth in a set path.
The sync delay dial determines the exact instant that the flash is fired. Bulbs have a rise time, peak time and decay time. The idea is to catch the light at the peak for best exposure. Some bulbs made especially for focal plane shutters have an extended peak time or plateau and sync is set to make the exposure during the plateau period.
I don't have instructions specifically for either camera so can't tell you what the setting is for electronic flash. Remove the back of the camera and look through the shutter opening while facing a blank wall. Set your shutter speed at 1/25th and the sync to zero. Trip the shutter and see if the whole film frame is open when the flash goes off. If not, experiment with the sync settings until you find the correct one.
Tip: Hopefully your flash unit is automatic and can be set for various intensities. Set it for the largest opening possible (f/4?) so that it gives the least light when testing. You don't want to blind yourself when it goes off!
Good luck.
Walker
Solinar
Analog Preferred
I just got a Zorki 4 in yesterday. While dissassembling for cleaning and lubing the gear assemblies, I noticed how the flash mechanism was designed.
Hmmm, I don't think I'll be using the flash much, which on a Zorki synchs at 1/30th of a second.
Hmmm, I don't think I'll be using the flash much, which on a Zorki synchs at 1/30th of a second.
doubs43
Well-known
Solinar said:
Hi Solinar. What year is your Zorki-4? I have a 1956 and a 1958. Both have 1/25th rather than 1/30th. I wonder what year the speed markings changed? Princelle's book doesn't say.
Walker
mac_wt
Cameras are like bunnies
OK, this looks like a good place to show what the postman brought me this morning. It looks absolute unused and at first everything felt a bit stiff. Now most controls have loosend up a bit.
It looks good, but it doesn't feel as much like a precision instrument as my Fed 2 or Zorki 3 or even my Fed 4 or Zorki 6. All the numbers are painted (not engraved) and the black top is made from a cheaper material than the chrome top of my Fed 4. It feels like a tin can and I can depress the back a few mm with my thumb. It has no diopter adjustment and the rangefinder spot isn't as bright as on my Fed 4. But it has a set of brightlines in the viewfinder.
It looks good, but it doesn't feel as much like a precision instrument as my Fed 2 or Zorki 3 or even my Fed 4 or Zorki 6. All the numbers are painted (not engraved) and the black top is made from a cheaper material than the chrome top of my Fed 4. It feels like a tin can and I can depress the back a few mm with my thumb. It has no diopter adjustment and the rangefinder spot isn't as bright as on my Fed 4. But it has a set of brightlines in the viewfinder.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Walker, It's a 1957, with ahemmm!, an X-synch at 1/25th of second. I almost brought it to work, today. That would have annoyed everyone.
So, Walker how do you like the beast?
It seems to be more robust than its detractors claim and the cloth has a crisp note to it.
So, Walker how do you like the beast?
It seems to be more robust than its detractors claim and the cloth has a crisp note to it.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Mac, is that a reloadable cannister sitting next to the black 5C?
mac_wt
Cameras are like bunnies
Yes. It was inside the camera when I unpacked it. It's got the Fed logo on it.
doubs43
Well-known
Solinar said:
I like my Zorki-4's very much. There's a feel of solidness that's lacking on some cameras - my FED-5B for instance. I've selected the 1956 Zorki-4 to be my "beater" camera and ride in the car or truck with me. It came to me with a Jupiter-3 lens that I really wanted and I've had to adjust the shutter curtain tension and the rangefinder but it's working beautifully now. The shutter does indeed have a satisfying "snap" when the second curtain closes. I prefer the Zorki-4 over the newer ones because of the range of shutter speeds.
With over 1.75 million Zorki-4's made, it's not difficult to find and the prices are still reasonable. IMO, it's one of the best buys on the market. I have a third one on the way..... made in the 1960's. Might say I like the Zorki-4........ a lot!
BTW, I want to get a 1957 some day. They aren't too common from what I can find out.
Walker
Last edited:
jon_flanders
Well-known
Alas, I too have fallen victim to Fedmania. I liked the first one so much, even though it has a pinhole in the shutter problem, that I couldn't resist this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3846910168&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
I can report that it looks as good as the
EBay pictures, in fact except for some wear
from the lens cap, it looks almost new.
Haven't run film through it yet, but I am looking forward to getting some good use out
of this one.
Jon Flanders
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3846910168&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT
I can report that it looks as good as the
EBay pictures, in fact except for some wear
from the lens cap, it looks almost new.
Haven't run film through it yet, but I am looking forward to getting some good use out
of this one.
Jon Flanders
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Fedmania sounds like an apt term for me as well, although I sprung for a Zorki 4, mainly for its range of shutter speeds. The Jupiter 8 was a second reason for going with the Z-4. For the money, it's nicely made camera, too.
The Fed 2 was my second choice. Who couldn't love the functionally curved lines of this camera? Your next camera has me beat by about $25, too.
May I dare say to anyone reading this forum to be forewarned. This mania is catching. I know I'm hooked as I've only had the Z-4 for a day and I'm already waiting for a Jupiter 9 to arrive.
The Fed 2 was my second choice. Who couldn't love the functionally curved lines of this camera? Your next camera has me beat by about $25, too.
May I dare say to anyone reading this forum to be forewarned. This mania is catching. I know I'm hooked as I've only had the Z-4 for a day and I'm already waiting for a Jupiter 9 to arrive.
Last edited:
joefrost
Newbie
Some samples
Some samples
Well after loading some film (a minor challenge in itself). I wandered around the neighborhood with the dog and took some photos.
Here's are the shots
http://gallery.the-frosts.org/album53
On some of the photos you can see a lighter spot on the bottom of the frame. Especially 07 and 08. (Please ignore the giant piece of fuzz on 08).
I would take the photo then wind the film advance knob and put the camera back in my coat pocket.
Any ideas what might be causing that? Or is it an anomaly?
Joe
Some samples
Well after loading some film (a minor challenge in itself). I wandered around the neighborhood with the dog and took some photos.
Here's are the shots
http://gallery.the-frosts.org/album53
On some of the photos you can see a lighter spot on the bottom of the frame. Especially 07 and 08. (Please ignore the giant piece of fuzz on 08).
I would take the photo then wind the film advance knob and put the camera back in my coat pocket.
Any ideas what might be causing that? Or is it an anomaly?
Joe
doubs43
Well-known
Joe, it's my guess that you either have a minor light leak or internal reflections from a bright surface. Are you applying excessive pressure against the back of the camera for any reason? I put light seal foam strips in the channels of my Zorki-4 and the last roll of film I shot had no light leaks whatsoever.
Walker
Walker
joefrost
Newbie
OK. Foam light seals. Sounds easy enough certainly easier than taking apart and relubing the lens.
So where can I pick up this foam light seal stuff? Any decent camera store? Or is this a special order from http://micro-tools.com/ or some other vendor specializing in the esoteric art of russian camera repair?
Thanks,
Joe
So where can I pick up this foam light seal stuff? Any decent camera store? Or is this a special order from http://micro-tools.com/ or some other vendor specializing in the esoteric art of russian camera repair?
Thanks,
Joe
jon_flanders
Well-known
You can make light seals out of hard black weather-stripping or even some recommend mousepad material. Also have heard of some using black yarn.
I cured the light leak in my Zorki by covering the self-timer and the front bottom with black electrical tape. I always shoot with the bottom of the case on the camera. I had to cut the top loose around the snap.
I am not sure that light seals will work that well with this camera design. It could make it difficult to close the back up.
Jon Flanders
I cured the light leak in my Zorki by covering the self-timer and the front bottom with black electrical tape. I always shoot with the bottom of the case on the camera. I had to cut the top loose around the snap.
I am not sure that light seals will work that well with this camera design. It could make it difficult to close the back up.
Jon Flanders
fraley
Beware of Claws
I bought a self-sticking foam sheet from our local arts & crafts store. It's two millimeters thick, black, sticky on one side. I cut a small strip to replace the seal on a camera door hinge and it fit snuggly, not too tight. With use it will be just about right. Info:
Darice Foamies
Darice , Inc.
Strongsville, OH 44149
www.darice.com
I think it was under $2.00 USD.
Darice Foamies
Darice , Inc.
Strongsville, OH 44149
www.darice.com
I think it was under $2.00 USD.
doubs43
Well-known
joefrost said:
I got mine from Micro-Tools but the 2mm self-sticking foam suggested by Fraley sounds like just what's needed. The best way to cut a foam sheet like that would be a rotary trimmer that allows precise cuts.
Walker