pmazer
Member
I just recently recieved a Zorki 4, my first rangefinder ever, only to find that the shutter won't close. I cock the shutter, then fire it off, and I don't hear the shutter close. Opening it up, I discover that it's still open. How do I go about fixing this?
Also, the shutter only opens a certain amount for each speed. Such as: for 1/1000, it opens about 5mm, for 1/500 about 1cm and so on. Does this have to do with the not-closing problem?
Is the camera just lost?
Also, the shutter only opens a certain amount for each speed. Such as: for 1/1000, it opens about 5mm, for 1/500 about 1cm and so on. Does this have to do with the not-closing problem?
Is the camera just lost?
Lear
Diego K.
Dont know how, but I have the same problem
S
Stanton
Guest
Are there any fragments of old film in the track in which the shutter runs? This could cause a jam.
R
RichardS
Guest
pmazer said:
Have you tried cocking the shutter again by advancing the film wind lever? If nothing happens, try moving the shutter speed dial. That MAY cause the shutter to close and a little help from a finger may also help it to close. I wouldn't do either of the last two on a camera that is working properly, but as long as it is not working..... One other thing, is the dial that you move so film can be rewound in the proper position for taking pictures? I think you have to turn it counter clockwise but I don't have my Zorki handy.
Dick
Dick
pmazer
Member
The shutter closes when I wind it and cock the shutter again. Is this how it's supposed to work? Maybe I just don't understand. If the shutter stays open, won't the film still expose?
pmazer
Member
For better explanation, this is what it looks like after I take a picture at 1/125 and before I cock the shutter.
http://photos.twistingmaze.com/Examples/img_2567
http://photos.twistingmaze.com/Examples/img_2567
R
RichardS
Guest
pmazer said:
The shutter should be closed. You might use your finger and see if you can move the shutter half on the left in your picture to the right so it will make contact with the other half and with a little luck it may catch and work the way it is supposed to. If it doesn't, you shouldn't be any worse off than you are now. Move it gently all the way over and see what happens. Good luck. I successfully did this with my Zorki 4 A and it has been working ever since, though I'm always doubtful as to whether it will.
Dick
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
The shutter curtains move to the left when the shutter is released. The first goes left to open followed by the second moving left slamming shut 1/125th of a second later to close. If you've just pressed the shutter release in your photo, your first curtain hasn't opened entirely yet and therefore the second curtain won't follow to close. When you wind the film advance again it's pulling this first curtain back to it's original (cocked) position, having never opened completely. Right?
Leave the back off and (if you haven't done this yet) try winding the film advance knob to cock the shutter and then change to the next slower speed and release the shutter. Then try the next slower speed. Maybe two or three times on each speed.
Watch the curtain movement each time you push the shutter release. To work properly, the curtain in your picture should go completely to the left out of sight. Watch for it to move unevenly, even in the short distance it's moving. Oh yeah, you can leave the lens off for inspection and observing from both sides.
From the photo, your Z4 looks in pretty clean shape - not a "beater." I agree with the guys above, there's a good possiblity you've got some tiny piece of film or other mini-debris in a cog, gear or the little trough the curtains run in. Look closely. Don't poke much, but maybe try blowing in the direction the curtain should travel [with the arrow] as you wind and release. (I slobber too much to try that, but it's okay for you.) Working the shutter repeatedly, blowing and GENTLY, GENTLY probing may eventually dislodge said debris. HOPEFULLY!!
Tinker on my friend, once you've got it going, you'll really like the Z4! Let us know what you find.
Leave the back off and (if you haven't done this yet) try winding the film advance knob to cock the shutter and then change to the next slower speed and release the shutter. Then try the next slower speed. Maybe two or three times on each speed.
REMEMBER TO ALWAYS TURN THE FILM WIND KNOB AND COCK THE SHUTTER FIRST BEFORE CHANGING SHUTTER SPEEDS.
Watch the curtain movement each time you push the shutter release. To work properly, the curtain in your picture should go completely to the left out of sight. Watch for it to move unevenly, even in the short distance it's moving. Oh yeah, you can leave the lens off for inspection and observing from both sides.
From the photo, your Z4 looks in pretty clean shape - not a "beater." I agree with the guys above, there's a good possiblity you've got some tiny piece of film or other mini-debris in a cog, gear or the little trough the curtains run in. Look closely. Don't poke much, but maybe try blowing in the direction the curtain should travel [with the arrow] as you wind and release. (I slobber too much to try that, but it's okay for you.) Working the shutter repeatedly, blowing and GENTLY, GENTLY probing may eventually dislodge said debris. HOPEFULLY!!
Tinker on my friend, once you've got it going, you'll really like the Z4! Let us know what you find.
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pmazer
Member
"The shutter curtains move to the left when the shutter is released. The first goes left to open followed by the second moving left slamming shut 1/125th of a second later to close. If you've just pressed the shutter release in your photo, your first curtain hasn't opened entirely yet and therefore the second curtain won't follow to close. When you wind the film advance again it's pulling this first curtain back to it's original (cocked) position, having never opened completely. Right?"
Yep, this sounds exactly like what's happening.
Thanks for the encouragement, but I've got a new problem, it seems. After cycling the shutter a bunch, it now "cocks" halfway open and when I press the shutter release, it opens all the way and makes a buzzer noise much like the timer makes.
I'm sure I'm going to love my Z4 once it gets working, but this is starting to get aggrevating!
Yep, this sounds exactly like what's happening.
Thanks for the encouragement, but I've got a new problem, it seems. After cycling the shutter a bunch, it now "cocks" halfway open and when I press the shutter release, it opens all the way and makes a buzzer noise much like the timer makes.
I'm sure I'm going to love my Z4 once it gets working, but this is starting to get aggrevating!
T
tedwhite
Guest
God, you guys scared me. I opened up my Zorki 4K, did all the above, and it works perfectly. I guess I just got nervous after reading all this. But that wasn't at all logical because I've been taking pictures with the Zorki and they all come out just fine. I guess I lucked out and got a good one.
CVBLC4: Thanks for the diagnostic lesson. I printed it out.
CVBLC4: Thanks for the diagnostic lesson. I printed it out.
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
Thanks for the link greyhoundman. Man, aren't those pics great? See? That's the very reason we pay Oleson the big bucks. He's good.
pmazer, note the last statement to Oleson's page: "One of the biggest culprits in all Leica type shutters is this big gearset in the bottom. Located where it is, over time it collects lint, film chips and all kinds of crud. If these gears don't run smoothly the opening curtain will hesitate and you'll get uneven exposures (or maybe no exposure at all at the top speeds)."
Have patience, keep working at it. How long does it buzz? Quick or prolonged? I guess you've fired it using the timer. And found the little button just above the timer lever that releases the timer without triggering the shutter and poked it few times.
If you're looking at Oleson's site, he's pretty accurate IMHO. You'll probably find some fur ball from a Russian cat right there in that little gear. As he mentioned, you're actually just removing a cover... not so complicated.
pmazer, note the last statement to Oleson's page: "One of the biggest culprits in all Leica type shutters is this big gearset in the bottom. Located where it is, over time it collects lint, film chips and all kinds of crud. If these gears don't run smoothly the opening curtain will hesitate and you'll get uneven exposures (or maybe no exposure at all at the top speeds)."
Don't get disheartened. Something's changed which probably means something has moved. This is a good thing... maybe??pmazer said:
Have patience, keep working at it. How long does it buzz? Quick or prolonged? I guess you've fired it using the timer. And found the little button just above the timer lever that releases the timer without triggering the shutter and poked it few times. If you're looking at Oleson's site, he's pretty accurate IMHO. You'll probably find some fur ball from a Russian cat right there in that little gear. As he mentioned, you're actually just removing a cover... not so complicated.
pmazer
Member
I have to leave for a couple days, but I'll try removing the cover and report back when I get back!
Iskra 2
Kodachrome Rules!
My Mint Engraved Zorki 4 Experience
My Mint Engraved Zorki 4 Experience
My shutter closing problem turned out to be a real curtain failure. With a bright light and mirror look inside the shutter cage on the left side (from the front) (or disassemble it further with the front cover off) and slowly cock the shutter. Look for a loose end wrapping around either end of the curtain roller. Mine sometimes worked fine and other times would hang up. :bang:
I'm trying to decide if I should try another sample or "Bite the Bullet" and get a Bessa. :bang:
Is the Leica "glow" worth it?
My Mint Engraved Zorki 4 Experience
My shutter closing problem turned out to be a real curtain failure. With a bright light and mirror look inside the shutter cage on the left side (from the front) (or disassemble it further with the front cover off) and slowly cock the shutter. Look for a loose end wrapping around either end of the curtain roller. Mine sometimes worked fine and other times would hang up. :bang:
I'm trying to decide if I should try another sample or "Bite the Bullet" and get a Bessa. :bang:
Is the Leica "glow" worth it?
kmack
do your job, then let go
You may want to sent it off to Oleg's FSU camera spa.
I am currently waiting for my Z4, which is making the trek back from the mother land.
Oleg replaced the take-up mechanism, curtains and did a complete CLA on the camera
and the silver J8 that was on it. His charge to me was $57USD (that includes
shipping). I only paid $35USD for it in the first place so it is still about 1/3 of what I
would pay for a new Bessa R body.
I'm sure it is not as nice as a Bessa, (It is certainly not as nice as was my late lamented
IIIF) but it is a usable and entertaining piece of hardware.
I am currently waiting for my Z4, which is making the trek back from the mother land.
Oleg replaced the take-up mechanism, curtains and did a complete CLA on the camera
and the silver J8 that was on it. His charge to me was $57USD (that includes
shipping). I only paid $35USD for it in the first place so it is still about 1/3 of what I
would pay for a new Bessa R body.
I'm sure it is not as nice as a Bessa, (It is certainly not as nice as was my late lamented
IIIF) but it is a usable and entertaining piece of hardware.
Iskra 2
Kodachrome Rules!
Oleg To The Rescue
Oleg To The Rescue
I e-mailed Oleg last nite. His site shows some more Zorki's available. I wonder if the Bessa has as good a rangefinder as the Zorki?
After looking "under the skirts" of my Zorki I am very impressed with the material, fit and finish. Is a Leica body much better in those terms?
Oleg To The Rescue
I e-mailed Oleg last nite. His site shows some more Zorki's available. I wonder if the Bessa has as good a rangefinder as the Zorki?
After looking "under the skirts" of my Zorki I am very impressed with the material, fit and finish. Is a Leica body much better in those terms?
T
tedwhite
Guest
Iskra 2:
I have a Zorki 4K in perfect condition and use it now and then. I also have a Bessa R. There is simply no comparison between the two cameras. They are in different worlds. The Bessa's viewfinder is bright, brighter by far than most Leicas. When I switch to the Zorki I just took a fifty year step backwards in viewfinder design. As a photographer who used to do it for money, I would say this: I could actually make a living with a Bessa R. I couldn't with a Zorki.
You should find someone with a Bessa R (or 2A or 3A) and take a look through one of them.
I have a Zorki 4K in perfect condition and use it now and then. I also have a Bessa R. There is simply no comparison between the two cameras. They are in different worlds. The Bessa's viewfinder is bright, brighter by far than most Leicas. When I switch to the Zorki I just took a fifty year step backwards in viewfinder design. As a photographer who used to do it for money, I would say this: I could actually make a living with a Bessa R. I couldn't with a Zorki.
You should find someone with a Bessa R (or 2A or 3A) and take a look through one of them.
Iskra 2
Kodachrome Rules!
Nearsighted
Nearsighted
I really liked the Zorki diopter adjustment. I sometimes have my glasses on and sometimes off. I could quickly adjust the diopter range for either situation. I'm going to try out a Bessa though and see the difference. Thanks for the insight.
Nearsighted
I really liked the Zorki diopter adjustment. I sometimes have my glasses on and sometimes off. I could quickly adjust the diopter range for either situation. I'm going to try out a Bessa though and see the difference. Thanks for the insight.