captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Last night I developed two rolls in DDX. One was Delta 400 & the other was FR4. Both required 8 min., so I did them in the same tank. 30 sec. initial agitation, then 10 sec. every 60 sec. thereafter. Negs were DENSE. Almost opaque. I think I might be able to get something usable from them, but it's going to require a lot of PS work.
So, what did I do wrong? Too much initial agitation? Are the bottle's times wrong? I've heard DDX refered to as a "speed increasing developer". Should I pull my ASA rating when I shoot if I'm planning on using this dev?
So, what did I do wrong? Too much initial agitation? Are the bottle's times wrong? I've heard DDX refered to as a "speed increasing developer". Should I pull my ASA rating when I shoot if I'm planning on using this dev?
markinlondon
Elmar user
I'd do no more than 10 seconds initial agitation, DDX seems quite active. You may want to rate your films a little higher if you're getting those sort of results, try D400 at EI500 for 8 minutes, this used to get me ideal results for a condenser enlarger so should be about right for scanning. I can't comment on FP4 as I usually use other developers for that.
Mark
Mark
kaiyen
local man of mystery
A speed increasing developer means you go the other way - you push your EI with that developer. But even the 1/3-2/3 speed increase you can get with DDX shouldn't account for what you are seeing.
It's either massive overexposure or massive overdevelopment. You did dilute the DDX, right? 1+4? Agitation sounds fine. How accurate is the meter your'e using?
allan
It's either massive overexposure or massive overdevelopment. You did dilute the DDX, right? 1+4? Agitation sounds fine. How accurate is the meter your'e using?
allan
BJ Bignell
Je n'aurai plus peur
Some possible causes for this:
- The DD-X is old/dead. How old is it?
- The working strength solution was old/dead. How old was it?
- The working strength solution was not mixed to working strength.
- Temperature control issues.
- Hardware failure. Have you checked your cameras/batteries/meters? If both came from the same camera, run another roll, and try again.
- User failure. (I once mis-read a handheld meter for two whole rolls of 120, and then after realising it, forgot to adjust the development. You could barely see through the negs.)
- Bad luck and/or voodoo.
I'm no expert with a lifetime of experience, but I've never had DD-X go bad on me. Even old, yellowed DD-X had worked pretty good in the past.
- The DD-X is old/dead. How old is it?
- The working strength solution was old/dead. How old was it?
- The working strength solution was not mixed to working strength.
- Temperature control issues.
- Hardware failure. Have you checked your cameras/batteries/meters? If both came from the same camera, run another roll, and try again.
- User failure. (I once mis-read a handheld meter for two whole rolls of 120, and then after realising it, forgot to adjust the development. You could barely see through the negs.)
- Bad luck and/or voodoo.
I'm no expert with a lifetime of experience, but I've never had DD-X go bad on me. Even old, yellowed DD-X had worked pretty good in the past.
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
The DDX is from a brand new bottle: I opened it 4-19. I mixed it 1+4 like the bottle says. It was mixed right before I developed the film (one-shot), so no chances it being too old. Could have been a meter problem, but I doubt it. I was using a new meter, but I have it on reliable testimony that it was accurate. Also, I developed one other roll previously (Delta 100) and saw the same problem on some of the frames.
Right now I'm thinking over agitation. I've got to shoot a test roll in my Zorki 6 sometime soon. I'll soup that and only do a 10 sec initial agitation. We'll see!
Right now I'm thinking over agitation. I've got to shoot a test roll in my Zorki 6 sometime soon. I'll soup that and only do a 10 sec initial agitation. We'll see!
bmattock
Veteran
Don't forget the possibility (as BJ Bignell stated) of temperature problems.
I've had a cheap digital thermometer for a long time - it is a 'film processing' thermometer that I bought in a camera shop in Albuquerque. A couple of weeks ago, just for giggles, I tried my wife's fancy-schmancy digital food thermometer - much newer and supposedly very accurate. I had a spare 'probe' for it, so no worries on the food getting contaminated!!!
Anyway, it showed a clean consistant 5 degree difference. I had been developing 5 degrees warmer than I was supposed to for a long, long, time. I confirmed it with yet another thermeter - the old mercury bulb style.
Doesn't make a difference with Diafine, but it sure does with D-76. 5 degrees warmer shortens dev time considerably - so it would be overcooking my negs to use them with the faulty thermometer.
Just a thought - I don't know DD-X, unfortunately.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
I've had a cheap digital thermometer for a long time - it is a 'film processing' thermometer that I bought in a camera shop in Albuquerque. A couple of weeks ago, just for giggles, I tried my wife's fancy-schmancy digital food thermometer - much newer and supposedly very accurate. I had a spare 'probe' for it, so no worries on the food getting contaminated!!!
Anyway, it showed a clean consistant 5 degree difference. I had been developing 5 degrees warmer than I was supposed to for a long, long, time. I confirmed it with yet another thermeter - the old mercury bulb style.
Doesn't make a difference with Diafine, but it sure does with D-76. 5 degrees warmer shortens dev time considerably - so it would be overcooking my negs to use them with the faulty thermometer.
Just a thought - I don't know DD-X, unfortunately.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Ilford times are usually dead-on.... what was your temp of the solution?
I've found that this time of the year tap water comes out at 74-76F
Did you presoak?
How often did you agitate?
I've found that this time of the year tap water comes out at 74-76F
Did you presoak?
How often did you agitate?
kaiyen
local man of mystery
You say that you saw the same problem on some of the frames on another roll. Were these at the end of the roll? Perhaps your shutter has failed?
allan
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Also is your fixer fresh????
could they be underfixed?
could they be underfixed?
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Bill: Could be the themometer. Didn't seem to be a problem when I used Rodinal, but that might have more "give" to it.
Kaiyen: No problems with the shutter. Rolls were taken with different cameras. The reason I only saw the problem at the beginning of the first roll, was because I accidently developed the 2nd half at a different speed. Oops.
Titrisol: Fixer was brand new. Just opened the bottle that day. Ilford Rapid Fixer at 1:4. Temp was 68 degrees F. No, I didn't presoak. Agitation was 30 sec. initial and 10 sec. every minute thereafter for 8 minutes.
Kaiyen: No problems with the shutter. Rolls were taken with different cameras. The reason I only saw the problem at the beginning of the first roll, was because I accidently developed the 2nd half at a different speed. Oops.
Titrisol: Fixer was brand new. Just opened the bottle that day. Ilford Rapid Fixer at 1:4. Temp was 68 degrees F. No, I didn't presoak. Agitation was 30 sec. initial and 10 sec. every minute thereafter for 8 minutes.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Seems like everything should've been fine. Be more strict with temperature, and see what happens.
allan
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Temperaure can be a problem with the combo of very active developer and short dev times, 2 or 3 degs may require 2 less minutes which may lead to bullet proof highlights.
The way around it is to use DDX 1+9 and double the times.
PS Delta 400 in DDX can be rated as 500 and works perfectly. But I preferred to shoot it as 400 and have a little estra density in the shadows.
The way around it is to use DDX 1+9 and double the times.
PS Delta 400 in DDX can be rated as 500 and works perfectly. But I preferred to shoot it as 400 and have a little estra density in the shadows.
Buze
Established
I use DDX too, at 24C (easier to warm the water than to cool it !) and had no problems like that. I ruinned a few frames by "forgetting" to agitate for the first two minutes (I had a kitchen emergency
) and I could see streaks in the developed frames, but mount frames were saved...
FYI I tend to also agitate about 30 secondes the first time too, I don't think it makes a massive difference.
Since you seems to have everything under control, and that the camera can't be the problem, the only remaining possibility is a light leak in your changing bag ?
FYI I tend to also agitate about 30 secondes the first time too, I don't think it makes a massive difference.
Since you seems to have everything under control, and that the camera can't be the problem, the only remaining possibility is a light leak in your changing bag ?
CZeni
DaDa is everywhere.
captainslack said:Last night I developed two rolls in DDX. One was Delta 400 & the other was FR4. Both required 8 min., so I did them in the same tank. 30 sec. initial agitation, then 10 sec. every 60 sec. thereafter. Negs were DENSE. Almost opaque. I think I might be able to get something usable from them, but it's going to require a lot of PS work.
So, what did I do wrong? Too much initial agitation? Are the bottle's times wrong? I've heard DDX refered to as a "speed increasing developer". Should I pull my ASA rating when I shoot if I'm planning on using this dev?
According to Ilford's data sheet you put a bit much agitation up front - they call for initial ten seconds, not thirty seconds:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20061301939551456.pdf
I follow their info and it works great every time.
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Buze said:Since you seems to have everything under control, and that the camera can't be the problem, the only remaining possibility is a light leak in your changing bag ?
No changing bag. I load up in my bedroom closet, which is shut off from any window. If that was the problem, it would have shown up on the film I've developed in Rodinal.
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
I figured out part of the problem: my thermometer is off by 4 degree!
Stuck it and the probe from my digital kitchen timer in a glass of tap water and it read four degree lower. So, my 68F DDX was actually 64F. :bang:
Stuck it and the probe from my digital kitchen timer in a glass of tap water and it read four degree lower. So, my 68F DDX was actually 64F. :bang:
RObert Budding
D'oh!
I use DDX when I shoot Delta 3200. I normally shoot EI 1600 and develop 1:15 @ 68 Degrees for 14 min with 2 inversions each minute. Negs usually print well with a 2.5 filter. Other folks may prefer denser negs, but this works well for me.
markinlondon
Elmar user
captainslack said:I figured out part of the problem: my thermometer is off by 4 degree!
Stuck it and the probe from my digital kitchen timer in a glass of tap water and it read four degree lower. So, my 68F DDX was actually 64F. :bang:
That would cause underdevelopment not negs you can barely see through. I think there's something else going on here.
Mark
CZeni
DaDa is everywhere.
Not to beat a dead horse, but check you agitation times again...
http://gallery.leica-users.org/Zenistuff/Zebulonslow - done exactly as Ilford recommends and it's lovely stuff.
http://gallery.leica-users.org/Zenistuff/Zebulonslow - done exactly as Ilford recommends and it's lovely stuff.
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
As I said, the thermometer was part of the problem. Obviously I seriously overagitated to cause that much overdevelopment in cold developer. :bang:
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.