Need More Advice on My Zorki 4

prunci

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Jul 10, 2005
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Thanks to everyone for all the advice regarding my newly-acquired Zorki 4. Now I have a new problem that I'm sure someone can help me with. At first, my range finder wasn't working properly and only functioned within a narrow range. Now the lever isn't moving at all. If I move it manually, it does not spring back. I tried putting the smallest drop of sewing machine oil on it, as some here suggested, but that has not done the trick.

So, the question is: is it worth repairing? I paid $40 for it and it is in impeccable cosmetic condition, but if the repair is pricey it may not be worth it. If it is worth repairing, to whom should I bring it? I live in the Washington, DC area and there are good photo shops around, but I have no idea how esoteric a skill it is to tinker with old Russian rangefinders.

Thanks for your advice once again!

Paul
 
Only you can answer the "is it worth repairing question". Do you want to get it repaired? Oleg at OKvintagecamera.com will repair it for $45 or so. Mine cost $18 shipping to Russia and Oleg charged me $56 for a CLA and curtain replacement and shipping. It took about 6 weeks total. I paid $36 for it in the first place so total cost was $110 for a clean, working Zorki. I can get a Bessa T from CameraQuest for $185.

It was worth it for me because I like the camera and wanted to use it.
 
If it were me, the decision should be based on the year the camera was made. The Z4s made from 1956 to about 1960 had engraved names and shutter speed dials, vulcanite covering and IMO were better built overall than later models. It would be worth it to me to get an early model fixed. If it's one of the later cameras with painted name and numbers that will eventuall rub off, I would probably look for a different Z4.
 
I have sent an email to Rick Oleson, who may be able to help you figure out what to do about fixing your Zorki4. He has sketches and photographs of disassembled Zorki's which may or may not be useful - it depends, I suppose, on just what is actually wrong with your system. If, as is suggested above, it is just that some spring or other has gotten loose, perhaps he may have the necessaries to guide you to affecting your own repair.

Lou
 
Hi Paul:

A Zorki 4 is probably seldom worth investing a lot of money in from a pure economic point of view; it's just too cheap to buy another one. But if you're like me, you hate to see something go to waste if it can be fixed, and your Zorki 4 undoubtedly can. So my question is, do you feel like trying to fix it yourself? You get to keep your money, and you learn a lot about what's going on inside your camera in the bargain.

My sketches for getting into the top of a Zorki 4 are at http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-58.html .... that same page has some photos of a FED3 too, which is very similar in most of the internal details. Also, if you click on the FED5 link towards the top of the page, it has some good photos of the inside of that, which again is very similar to the Zorki 4.

If you decide to give this a try, i'll be happy to try to help via email as you go along.....

rick : ) =
 
Thanks for the advice everyone! Rick, I think I may attempt to do the surgery myself using your instructions. In the worst case, I guess I'm left with a $40 rear lens cover for my Jupiter 50mm lens. Thanks for your offer of assistance, Rick; I'll yell for you from the operating room when I get stuck.
 
The return spring on the rangefinder arm is a simple thing that looks like it is made from music wire. You can get a spring winding jig from a Harbor Freight store for a few dollars and the music wire is easy to get from a model shop that carries model airplane components or railroad stuff.

It might not have broken, sometimes the end just pops off. It is secured at one end against a tiny notch, and I have had one just pop-off.

I agree that it from a dollars/hours standpint it might nopt be worth the effort, but it can be fun!

-Paul S
 
Take a small screwdriver repair yourself: clean dust with Vodka then add some oil, then shot without film 5 minutes (200 times)
 
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