kb244
Well-known
Hello, I'm Karl and I'm somewhat a Canon Whore (I got a Demi, Canon P, Canonet QL-17 GIII, EOS-1, DRebel). I've been hanging around on some of the other sites such as Apug, but ever since I got my Canon P and fell in love with it, I figured why not try a forum that seems to be dedicated to just that.
Anyways had a couple curiousities with my Canon P.
The first one of course is the light baffles. I understand there are a number of lens you do not want to use with the Canon P because they can strike against the light baffles. So a couple of things.
1) What is the possible disadvantage if you happen to scratch the paint off the light baffle.
2) Is there any kind of modifications that can be performed on the light baffle to accomidate all lens.
I was trying a leica collapsible lens at work and I guess I knicked the top of the baffle when putting it in. It's fine most the time but not if one of the prongs get turned up. I repaired the little 'nick' in the paint by painting over a thin layer of black (matte) enamel paint, which seems to work like a charm.
I currently have three lens for my Canon P.
Canon 50mm f/1.8
Jupiter-3 50mm f/1.5 (currently in classified for trade)
Jupiter-12 35mm f/3.8 (newer black version)
I got the Jupiter-12 last in trade for my Zenit-11 SLR, I was assured that the black version would not have a problem with the light baffle and sure enough it did not. But how true is the black jupiter-12 to the original clone in terms of being a biogon clone?
The other question is, while I love the lifesize viewfinder but is there any tips to increasing the rangefinder spot clarity. I can use it but in slightly lower light it is a tad difficult (however somewhat better than the Canonet I have).
Mine does have a few wrinkles, and I heard that wrinkles are extremely common on the Canon P. However when the shutters do start to be affected by wrinkles, whats the typical repair charges if they can be repaired.
Also I am drooling over a voigtlander 21mm f/4 Color Skopar. Any experience in using this lens with the Canon P without any problems? Also curious for curiousity sakes about the 15mm Voigtlander working with the Canon P.
Here is a picture of my baby with the Canon 50mm and the Jupiter-12.
Look forward to hearing from you guys.
Anyways had a couple curiousities with my Canon P.
The first one of course is the light baffles. I understand there are a number of lens you do not want to use with the Canon P because they can strike against the light baffles. So a couple of things.
1) What is the possible disadvantage if you happen to scratch the paint off the light baffle.
2) Is there any kind of modifications that can be performed on the light baffle to accomidate all lens.
I was trying a leica collapsible lens at work and I guess I knicked the top of the baffle when putting it in. It's fine most the time but not if one of the prongs get turned up. I repaired the little 'nick' in the paint by painting over a thin layer of black (matte) enamel paint, which seems to work like a charm.
I currently have three lens for my Canon P.
Canon 50mm f/1.8
Jupiter-3 50mm f/1.5 (currently in classified for trade)
Jupiter-12 35mm f/3.8 (newer black version)
I got the Jupiter-12 last in trade for my Zenit-11 SLR, I was assured that the black version would not have a problem with the light baffle and sure enough it did not. But how true is the black jupiter-12 to the original clone in terms of being a biogon clone?
The other question is, while I love the lifesize viewfinder but is there any tips to increasing the rangefinder spot clarity. I can use it but in slightly lower light it is a tad difficult (however somewhat better than the Canonet I have).
Mine does have a few wrinkles, and I heard that wrinkles are extremely common on the Canon P. However when the shutters do start to be affected by wrinkles, whats the typical repair charges if they can be repaired.
Also I am drooling over a voigtlander 21mm f/4 Color Skopar. Any experience in using this lens with the Canon P without any problems? Also curious for curiousity sakes about the 15mm Voigtlander working with the Canon P.
Here is a picture of my baby with the Canon 50mm and the Jupiter-12.
Look forward to hearing from you guys.
Last edited:
Bill58
Native Texan
No problem w/ the 21mm f/4 Color Skopar. Works great!
sirius
Well-known
I can't really help you, because I have never had problems. I like to use Canon glass. It is a great camera, a real joy to use. I hope that you have a great time with it. If you have the bottom half of the leather case use it. I found that it really helps in keeping scratches and dings off the camera.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Hi Karl,
Welcome to the forum.
The first one of course is the light baffles. I understand there are a number of lens you do not want to use with the Canon P because they can strike against the light baffles. So a couple of things.
1) What is the possible disadvantage if you happen to scratch the paint off the light baffle.
2) Is there any kind of modifications that can be performed on the light baffle to accomidate all lens.
In reality, there are very few lens that won't fit. I wouldn't try to mod the camera for these.
I was trying a leica collapsible lens at work and I guess I knicked the top of the baffle when putting it in. It's fine most the time but not if one of the prongs get turned up. I repaired the little 'nick' in the paint by painting over a thin layer of black (matte) enamel paint, which seems to work like a charm.
It's what I would have suggested
I got the Jupiter-12 last in trade for my Zenit-11 SLR, I was assured that the black version would not have a problem with the light baffle and sure enough it did not. But how true is the black jupiter-12 to the original clone in terms of being a biogon clone?
As far as I know, they are all the same basic optical formula.
The other question is, while I love the lifesize viewfinder but is there any tips to increasing the rangefinder spot clarity. I can use it but in slightly lower light it is a tad difficult (however somewhat better than the Canonet I have).
A clean might help but it is not up to modern VF standards.
Mine does have a few wrinkles, and I heard that wrinkles are extremely common on the Canon P. However when the shutters do start to be affected by wrinkles, whats the typical repair charges if they can be repaired.
Not worth considering unless the shutter is damaged. Difficult to get a replacement metal shutter though CRR in the UK can do it. Some others can replace it with a cloth one. If you get a metal one, it will wrinkle again so why do it?
Here is a picture of my baby with the Canon 50mm and the Jupiter-12.
Nice camera - Enjoy!
Kim
Welcome to the forum.
The first one of course is the light baffles. I understand there are a number of lens you do not want to use with the Canon P because they can strike against the light baffles. So a couple of things.
1) What is the possible disadvantage if you happen to scratch the paint off the light baffle.
2) Is there any kind of modifications that can be performed on the light baffle to accomidate all lens.
In reality, there are very few lens that won't fit. I wouldn't try to mod the camera for these.
I was trying a leica collapsible lens at work and I guess I knicked the top of the baffle when putting it in. It's fine most the time but not if one of the prongs get turned up. I repaired the little 'nick' in the paint by painting over a thin layer of black (matte) enamel paint, which seems to work like a charm.
It's what I would have suggested
I got the Jupiter-12 last in trade for my Zenit-11 SLR, I was assured that the black version would not have a problem with the light baffle and sure enough it did not. But how true is the black jupiter-12 to the original clone in terms of being a biogon clone?
As far as I know, they are all the same basic optical formula.
The other question is, while I love the lifesize viewfinder but is there any tips to increasing the rangefinder spot clarity. I can use it but in slightly lower light it is a tad difficult (however somewhat better than the Canonet I have).
A clean might help but it is not up to modern VF standards.
Mine does have a few wrinkles, and I heard that wrinkles are extremely common on the Canon P. However when the shutters do start to be affected by wrinkles, whats the typical repair charges if they can be repaired.
Not worth considering unless the shutter is damaged. Difficult to get a replacement metal shutter though CRR in the UK can do it. Some others can replace it with a cloth one. If you get a metal one, it will wrinkle again so why do it?
Here is a picture of my baby with the Canon 50mm and the Jupiter-12.
Nice camera - Enjoy!
Kim
kb244
Well-known
sirius said:
Was not aware of a leather field case that specifically fit this camara.
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
kb244 said:
I think he meant the case that Canon made for it. With a total Canon P production of nearly 90,000 units, there are a lot of cases around. It's not uncommon to find one in which the front flap is worn or even split at the "hinge" area where it folds, but this type of case is fine for using just the bottom half to protect the finish of the camera.
gtramctram
camaro69
Did you also get the P exposure meter that fits the shoe?
planetjoe
Just some guy, you know?
Hey, Karl - glad to see another Canon devotee in these parts.
Concerning the light baffles specifically - you've already succeeded (with the J-12) to get compatibility with one of the more traditionally hard-to-fit lenses. I went through a period of research on this particular combination, too. Some of those threads are around here, somewhere.
I also lightly scuffed the baffles on my P, both with the J-12 (very light contact; I have a similar recent model J-12) and with my Leitz Summitar (a collapsible). The Summitar's "ears" make some contact with the upper baffle, I think, while collapsing. No big deal.
In any case, I've never had any problem with the results, and I never felt the need to mod the camera. Enjoy it.
Cheers,
--joe.
Concerning the light baffles specifically - you've already succeeded (with the J-12) to get compatibility with one of the more traditionally hard-to-fit lenses. I went through a period of research on this particular combination, too. Some of those threads are around here, somewhere.
I also lightly scuffed the baffles on my P, both with the J-12 (very light contact; I have a similar recent model J-12) and with my Leitz Summitar (a collapsible). The Summitar's "ears" make some contact with the upper baffle, I think, while collapsing. No big deal.
In any case, I've never had any problem with the results, and I never felt the need to mod the camera. Enjoy it.
Cheers,
--joe.
kb244
Well-known
gtramctram said:
Nope, what you see that I listed is pretty much what I got.
I'm really hoping to get a voigtlander lens though (21/4, 25/3.5, hell maybe even 15mm) but can't really afford any of them and I don't think I'll have much luck asking a price on the 180 2.5 adaptall lens I have either to get one of the above lens. I'll daydream on that lol. (Those above lens or least the first two seem to be quite small and pocketible on the depth of the lens to throw into my jacket pocket, which I can 'reasonably' do with my J12, I just don't like how the J12 handles it's apertures)
But ya the Canon P I got seems to be quite good condition considering what I see floating around on ebay and such. Here is a picture of the back element of the J-12 inside the camera for any curious.
gtramctram
camaro69
those pics are great.
Sonnar2
Well-known
Hi Karl,
any of the small Voigtländer lenses will fit the Canon P. I used the 4.5/15, 4/21, 4/25, 1.7+ 2.5/35's.
Very nice P !
About the wrinkles, if it works and still make no noise, don't take care of them. Except for one thing, if possible: try to develop a behavior of not storing it with shutter cocked.
cheers Frank
any of the small Voigtländer lenses will fit the Canon P. I used the 4.5/15, 4/21, 4/25, 1.7+ 2.5/35's.
Very nice P !
About the wrinkles, if it works and still make no noise, don't take care of them. Except for one thing, if possible: try to develop a behavior of not storing it with shutter cocked.
cheers Frank
P
Paul Connet
Guest
Storing metal curtain cameras with shutter cocked
Storing metal curtain cameras with shutter cocked
That's a new bit of info regarding storage of the camera. What is the problem with having the metal shutter cocked for a bit of time?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Paul C.
Storing metal curtain cameras with shutter cocked
Hi Frank,Sonnar2 said:
That's a new bit of info regarding storage of the camera. What is the problem with having the metal shutter cocked for a bit of time?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Paul C.
clarence
ダメ
Paul Connet said:
Tension puts a strain on the mechanism. Your speeds might change if you keep doing this.
Clarence
furcafe
Veteran
Is this something peculiar to the Canon P? My understanding of Leicas, both TM & M mount, is that there's very little difference in tension in the shutter mechanism between when it's cocked & uncocked.
The springs in leaf shutters like the Compurs used in the Zeiss Ikon folders, etc., are a different matter, of course.
The springs in leaf shutters like the Compurs used in the Zeiss Ikon folders, etc., are a different matter, of course.
clarence said:
John Shriver
Well-known
The collapsible lenses can be used on the baffled Canons (P, 7, 7s) with care. The Summicron 50/2 and Summitar 50/2 just work, because the ball bearing and groove ensure that none of the lens tube's bayonet tabs points straight up while you collapse. The Elmar 50/3.5, Canon 50/3.5, and Summar 50/2 don't have the protection, but you can do fine by feel. I presume the Hektor 50/2.5 is in the latter category, having a mounting tube the same size as the Summar.
The modern no-go lenses are the Kobalux 21 and 28mm lenses (also sold as Bower, Pansopic, Avenon, etc.) from Japan.
No experience here with the Cosina/Voigtlander Heliar 50/3.5 or Heliar 50/2, which are their only collapsible lenses.
I'd presume no problems with the Leica Angulon 21mm lenses.
The modern no-go lenses are the Kobalux 21 and 28mm lenses (also sold as Bower, Pansopic, Avenon, etc.) from Japan.
No experience here with the Cosina/Voigtlander Heliar 50/3.5 or Heliar 50/2, which are their only collapsible lenses.
I'd presume no problems with the Leica Angulon 21mm lenses.
Sonnar2
Well-known
Maybe the springs in the Canon RF shutters are strong (I've seldom heard of a lazy travelling, or not completely closing shutter) but I estimate there is some strain on the curtains when stored cocked. Or why the wrinkles? I cannot imagine 90% of these shutter curtains were damaged by users loading film.
Maybe the metal-curtain Canon's will not damage over years with shutter cocked but over decades.
I store all my late-50's Pentaxes uncocked because their springs definitely tends to slowdown, and they have Leica type shutters. As far as I remember even Leica recommended in past times not to store it with shutter cocked.
So let's say, I'm not sure if it helps, but at least it will do no further harm.
cheers Frank
Maybe the metal-curtain Canon's will not damage over years with shutter cocked but over decades.
I store all my late-50's Pentaxes uncocked because their springs definitely tends to slowdown, and they have Leica type shutters. As far as I remember even Leica recommended in past times not to store it with shutter cocked.
So let's say, I'm not sure if it helps, but at least it will do no further harm.
cheers Frank