New to 28mm, any tricks?

[Joran]

Last couple of years I've used 35mm as my preferred focal length for street photography. Today I'll picking up a 28mm Summicron for use on my M6.

Are there certain tricks for shooting a 28mm? I'm quite tall (1.90m) do I need to squat on the streets? Just curious.

 

[ACullen]

I wouldn’t say there are any tricks as such. I used 28mm as my preferred SLR wide angle but only added a 28 to my M2 set up. I sold a CV25 LTM to get a CV28 to give as wide an
angle on the M2 without using an external VF ( i also already had a ZM25).

So whilst I love the 35mm fl I’ve found it seamless adding the 28. I don’t get those that say that 28 and 35 are too close to bother with both. For me the 28 is an obvious wide angle where as 35mm gives a perspective that fits into the “normal” range (35-58mm)

 

[shimokita]

Squatting or lowering your position (one knee on the ground) can create interesting images. If you are concerned with vertical lines (buildings etc.) in the background you might want to hold the camera level rather than point down... depends on the situation. Use the wideness of the lens to capture the subject... many times the issue is too much sky and the resulting under exposure of the lower part of the frame, depending on your metering technique. Distance from the subject is a consideration...

Just shoot a bit and it becomes clear ; )

 

[Robert Lai]

Get closer to your foreground subject

 

[Mute-on]

As you tilt the camera up or down you will notice that this increases perspective distortion.

Equally, perspective distortion is increased with subjects in the near distance (1-3m) and/or towards the edges of the frame.

I love using my 28. I hope you will too 🙂

 

[oldwino]

As the zen master once said, “no tricks, just shoot.”

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I'm 188.5 never been a problem at 20mm. 🙂

If you want to learn how to use 28mm lens on the street get Winogrand book and study it.
GW archive is available here:
http://ccp-emuseum.catnet.arizona.e...ate:flow=3f36c2d3-a618-400a-b660-c2a66cac1991

To me 28mm is where get to it close or have something close focal length starts.

 

[Calzone]

If you shoot a M-body use the 90mm frames as the middle rectangle as in "the rule of thirds." this is very helpful in composition.

I generally use F5.6 for maximum DOF without difraction most of the time for street. I set the distance scale at 7-8 feet and have a "kill zone" from 5-10 feet where I basically can point and shoot.

Also the field of view is so easy to remember. If my subject is say 7 feet away from me and I'm shooting a vertical then I can expect to get a tight head-to-toe shot, but I have to drop to one knee or bend down while keeping my camera vertical. Pretty much use an equalateral triangle to remember framing using my distance to subject as matching my frame length.

The 28 Cron is a great-great lens. Don't be afraid to get close to your subject. For me a 28 over a 35 gives me that "all at once FOV" of a wide, while I can use a 35mm as my normal. Don't be shy. The 28 has its own look over a 35mm IMHO if you exploit being able to get closer and tighter.

BTW the 28 Cron is my most favored wide, although I also love my 35/1.8 Nikkor in LTM.

Cal

 

[Canyongazer]

Google Images for <Garry Winogrand> to see how its done.

 

[narsuitus]

I own 21, 28, 35, and 50mm lenses but I rarely carry all at the same time. For street photography, I usually carry the 35 and 21. For landscapes, I prefer the 28 and 50.

On the other hand, I have a colleague who is an excellent street shooter and prefers the 28 and 50 for street.

 

[cz23]

Google Images for <Garry Winogrand> to see how its done.

It really is a pleasure to watch him work. He appears to have been short. I'm 6'1" and find 28 distortion an issue, obviously more so as I get closer. I'm not a fan of bobbing, but sometimes it's necessary.

John

 

[Calzone]

It really is a pleasure to watch him work. He appears to have been short. I'm 6'1" and find 28 distortion an issue, obviously more so as I get closer. I'm not a fan of bobbing, but sometimes it's necessary.

John

John,

I'm only 5'9" and I sometimes shoot from my chest. I even adjusted my camera strap so my rig hangs around my nipples. No bobbing required and once you understand the equalateral triangle relationship I mentioned above I don't have to even raise the camera to my eye.

Being able to frame a shot by the distance setting equaling the length of the frame allows for shooting without looking through the VF'er.

The big advantage of a 28 FOV is being able to get those quick shots and exploiting the added DOF over a 35.

Also in my style of shooting most of my shots with a 28 are verticals.

Cal

 

[cz23]

John,

I'm only 5'9" and I sometimes shoot from my chest. I even adjusted my camera strap so my rig hangs around my nipples. No bobbing required and once you understand the equalateral triangle relationship I mentioned above I don't have to even raise the camera to my eye.

Being able to frame a shot by the distance setting equaling the length of the frame allows for shooting without looking through the VF'er.

The big advantage of a 28 FOV is being able to get those quick shots and exploiting the added DOF over a 35.

Also in my style of shooting most of my shots with a 28 are verticals.

Cal

That's one thing I like about digital P&S; you can shoot from the chest or lower using the LCD. A nicer viewpoint for street work, I feel.

John

 

[Calzone]

That's one thing I like about digital P&S; you can shoot from the chest or lower using the LCD. A nicer viewpoint for street work, I feel.

John

John,

I can see how being tall might be a handicap and awkward when shooting a 28.

It would be interesting to know how tall Garry Winnogrand was.

I have this habit of dropping my right shoulder and turning my head almost as if taking a horizontal shot when taking a vertical. This is how I maintain "nipple height."

Cal

 

[jsrockit]

Get closer to your foreground subject

Yep... ...

 

[Canyongazer]

Also, our own Bob Michaels, right here on RFF

(and elsewhere, http://www.bobmichaels.org/Cuba_intro.htm)


Bob is an ace with the 28 and people.

 

[Rob-F]

Get closer to your foreground subject

Yep... ...

+2. The wide lens makes the foreground important, so it need to be filled with an important aspect of the composition!

 

[Bingley]

Get closer to your foreground subject

This ^^^^^. I mainly use a 28 when I need to get close to my subject.

 

[Richard G]

All of the above. And be careful metering slavishly with the red LEDs as the sky makes too big a contribution to the exposure with a 28.

 

[jmilkins]

Excellent thread with great advice from experienced users - especially Calzone’s equilateral triangles - thanks.

I don’t do a lot of street but love the 28mm FL in general, with a particular fondness for low angle shots with foreground interest.