With43mm IR cut/UV filter, and Nikon lens hood.
At F1.4, shot into the Sun:
F4:
Even wide-open, this lens resolves the grass enough to produce the moire effect when "pixel-Peeping".
F1.4:
F4:
F1.4, distance shot. Nikkors are optimized for close-up and wide-open.
F4:
At F1.4, shot into the Sun:
F4:
Even wide-open, this lens resolves the grass enough to produce the moire effect when "pixel-Peeping".
F1.4:
F4:
F1.4, distance shot. Nikkors are optimized for close-up and wide-open.
F4:
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F1.4:
F4
F4
venchka
Veteran
Further evidence that I should use mine often. Stop fantasizing about a Summilux.
Moire effect? Where?
Moire effect? Where?
Down-sized to 1024p across, it is not evident. If I zoom in all the way on the blades of grass in the first frame, you get the speckling pattern caused by the Bayer Filter and lack of AA filter. I much prefer the sharp image of the M8 compared with my DSLR's using the AA filter. I'll post a thread on the color aliasing that may place due to the lack of AA filter.
venchka
Veteran
Thanks Brian. For mortals such as I, these "features" do not appear on film?
ferider
Veteran
Next time you take her out, Brian, can you compare f1.4 and f1.6, pretty please ?
Thanks !
PS: nice "Leica glow" at f1.4
Thanks !
PS: nice "Leica glow" at f1.4
venchka
Veteran
Nikon glow. As taught to Leica.

Next time you take her out, Brian, can you compare f1.4 and f1.6, pretty please ?
Thanks !
PS: nice "Leica glow" at f1.4![]()
Will do! I should also throw the Later S-Mount 5cm f1.4's on the adapter and give them a try as well. The optical formula changed slightly- more like a "tweek", but the diamter of the optics was increased by about 1mm with the later Sonnar formula lenses.
raid
Dad Photographer
Thanks, Brain. You are really enjoying your M8, I see.
venchka
Veteran
LTM also?
LTM also?
Would the "tweek" be the same in a late (black ring, 1956-ish) LTM sample?
LTM also?
Will do! I should also throw the Later S-Mount 5cm f1.4's on the adapter and give them a try as well. The optical formula changed slightly- more like a "tweek", but the diamter of the optics was increased by about 1mm with the later Sonnar formula lenses.
Would the "tweek" be the same in a late (black ring, 1956-ish) LTM sample?
ampguy
Veteran
Very nice Brian. The lens is very soft @ 1.4 from what I can see, but very sharp at F4. How would f2 and 2.8 be?
btw, I think your digital shots are nicer. On film, some of your shots had a color cast or filtered look to my eyes, very nice M8 shots.
btw, I think your digital shots are nicer. On film, some of your shots had a color cast or filtered look to my eyes, very nice M8 shots.
ferider
Veteran
Would the "tweek" be the same in a late (black ring, 1956-ish) LTM sample?
Yes, Wayne (NKT vs. NKJ). Even though I'm sure coating and mechanics changed throughout the 50s, as is apparent in the black aperture ring of your lens.
venchka
Veteran
The lens is sharp at 1.6. About 3 grooves in the knurling down from wide open.
Thanks Roland.
Thanks Roland.
Fred: is the 5cm F1.4 a 5008 or a 5005 series? My earliest F1.4 is a 5005 series, came with a Nikon M Sync attached to it. I believe the optics are basically the same as this LTM lens, coating changed a little maybe? I have it on an Amedeo Adapter.
My 5cm F1.4 starting with 34xxxxx is larger diameter optics.
I need to put the Collapsible 5cm F2 in LTM onto the M8: every bit as sharp as the late black-aperture ring lens.
Weather is back to "non-cooperative" today, so will shoot more with the lens this week.
My 5cm F1.4 starting with 34xxxxx is larger diameter optics.
I need to put the Collapsible 5cm F2 in LTM onto the M8: every bit as sharp as the late black-aperture ring lens.
Weather is back to "non-cooperative" today, so will shoot more with the lens this week.
Another close-up at F1.4, no flare to contend with, you can find a good point of focus.
At F4:
I need to put in some tight crops, to show the point of focus. It is resolving more than my best J-3 with German Glass in it.
The Blue in the snow is correct: mostly reflecting the late afternoon sky. These are all at 4:30-5pm.
At F4:
I need to put in some tight crops, to show the point of focus. It is resolving more than my best J-3 with German Glass in it.
The Blue in the snow is correct: mostly reflecting the late afternoon sky. These are all at 4:30-5pm.
venchka
Veteran
Brian,
Thank you! You have saved me about $1,000. Cured my Summilux lust.
Thank you! You have saved me about $1,000. Cured my Summilux lust.
Thanks Brian. For mortals such as I, these "features" do not appear on film?
I remembered an exception to that rule!
The color aliasing that takes place on digital cameras using Bayer filters and that do not have an anti-aliasing filter (like the M8) does not occur with MOST color films. It does occur with Polachrome side film and some of the earlier (like early 1900's) color film that used striped color filters over the emulsion.
Shoot- wish I had some Polachrome left to try this on.
venchka
Veteran
I think I have a 4x5 sheet. Is that the E-6 film that Polaroid packaged similar to the ReadyLoads that they made for Kodak?
No- it is their Instant Slide Film, a spin off of the Movie Film that they developed in the 70s.
Shoot slide film in your 35mm camera, pull out and develop instantly with a little table top device. I used it for computer generated graphics in the 1980s with cameras set up to photograph a special CRT.
Shoot slide film in your 35mm camera, pull out and develop instantly with a little table top device. I used it for computer generated graphics in the 1980s with cameras set up to photograph a special CRT.
venchka
Veteran
Oh. Ok. I'll use that sheet of E-6 4x5 soon.
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