Nikon consumer DSLRs and MF lenses?

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Hi,

I'm in need of a digital camera again and have not seen anything I consider interesting in the EVIL and P&S sections, I'm now considering buying a cheaper Nikon DSLR with no AF motor and using manual focus lenses on that.

Currently contemplating a D3100, to be used with a MF Panagor 28mm 2.5 non-AI that I have for my Nikkormat.

The set would have no AF (yay!) and no lightmeter (again: yay!). Instead focusing would be manual, aperture would be set on the lens and the light I would have to estimate like on my Leica M2 and M3. ISO setting is of course available on the body.

Does anybody here use a similar set-up? What is your combo? How do you value its functionality? Any quirks?
 
Not with Nikons, but with my old Pentax K100D and current K20D (which are rather more helpful with metering in manual mode). The main problems are that the viewfinder is tiny compared to even a mediocre manual-focus 35mm SLR, and (more importantly) the focussing screen is pretty much useless for use with fast glass.

I solved the first problem with a finder magnifier and learned to live with the resultant tunnel vision; and the second with a Katz Eye focussing screen.
 
Nikon D40X with a CV 20/3.5. Light and compact, and in-camera metering (I typically like AE bodies), but obviously manual focus only. Actually, with the 20mm lens, I hardly ever focus; I just set the distance to roughly 10 and shoot away.
 
Actually, the D3100 has a 0.8x magnification on a 95% view.

That's about the same as the Nikon D1 I had and that recently died on me. Can't say it's anywhere near a Leica M or the D300 that I once had and foolishly traded in for an M8, but I got used to the viewfinder after a while.

I hope to make a buck off some shooting and get back in the game with a secondhand D300 somewhere end of this year.
 
Interesting suggestion Jarski, I'll consider that. It might make my shooting a bit faster for those cases where it needs to be...

I'll try to find out online whether this dandelion chip is a hindrance with using the lens on a 1966 Nikkormat. Wouldn't want that!
 
You might want to send a message to John White at aiconversions.com. He should be able to tell you if the chip would work with the Panagor. He installs these chips on old non-ai nikkors.

I could be wrong, but I don't think John installs chips in non-AI lenses. I think he just AI's non-AI lenses. Installing a chip allows AI or non-AI lenses to meter with consumer DSLR's. I wan't aware of the Dandelion chip... I may look into that since I have a lot of AI/AIS lenses and would like in-body metering with my D40X.
 
I used many MF lenses including non-AI lenses on my D40x ( later sold it to help pay for a used D300 -- which, btw, you can get now for $850, so if a d3100 is anywhere near that, go for the D300 which will meter your lenses, even if you ignore and meter yourself). If you are accustomed to shooting without metering and can guess pretty close to the correct exposure you should have no problems. I wasn't that experienced at the time but even so since you have instant feedback it's easy to make adjustments on the fly. I'd consider the D40x again but for one thing: no self cleaning sensor. This turned out to be a major pain the ass for those of us who change lenses a lot.

Why is it that the cheaper Nikon DSLRs mount the non-Ai lenses but the higher end ones do not?
 
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With a D3100 you will also need to meter stop-down because the camera lacks the necessary hardware to stop down to working aperture on non-electronically controlled lenses.

That's the killer for me.

Marty
 
Why is it that the cheaper Nikon DSLRs mount the non-Ai lenses but the higher end ones do not?

thats the irony. prosumer models lack the lever for non-AI lenses that some film bodies like FE/FM had. consumer digitals ignore the AI altogether, and work with both types.
 
While I have not pulled the trigger I have wanted a Nikon D60 to use with my older F mount Nikkors. No built in meter but you do have focus assist that works pretty well. From the missing the meter perspective you do have a way cool LCD on the back that can show you both the picture as well as a Histogram. Look a the distribution and decided if you have the right exposure or not. I am thinking that it's actually as accurate as using a hand held meter or built in manual exposure.

My son is taking photography in HS next year and I've got two lenses for a D40x/60 system for him to learn on. A 24/2.8 and 50/1.4 basically they give him a 35 and a 75 which are a great start to learn photography and how not to zoom. I have a nikkormat FT3 which will work fine with both lenses too as I hope they will do some analog stuff too.

I really like the idea of using older glass on newer digital bodies and using your head to insure proper exposure.

I've looked at alternative focusing screens but I might be so old I can not tell that I'm having problems focusing with the stock screen and an f3.5 lens in a store. I keep hoping that the after market mfgs. will come out with a P Screen (my favorite) but they keep saying no.

Check old posts for the D40x and D60, lots of conversations about this very topic a ways back.

B2
 
You still have the focusing mods to make it accurate on either...

I guess I'm not sure exactly what mods need to be done other than the added convienience of a split prism screen which can be had for Canon or Nikon, from Katzeye. I use c/y Zeiss and OM glass with chipped adapters on my 7d and have no issues. The dandelion chip can be adjusted for focus confirm point but I do that in-camera.
 
I use a D40x along with a 55mm F2.8 micro lens (AI I think). No metering and obviously no autofocus. It works fine, but I take test shots regularly as if I were using a meter.

Bear in mind that the menus are not brilliantly laid out. Trying to adjust exposure or flash compensation as well as manually metering while dealing with inconvenient controls can really slow you down.

Naturally, the best way to make my life easier was to buy a Zorki C. That way I don't have the controls.
 
Why is it that the cheaper Nikon DSLRs mount the non-Ai lenses but the higher end ones do not?

There's an AI-tab on the higher-end bodies. This engages with the AI-cutout on the lenses. Non-Ai lenses are flush against the body, and mounting them can break the tab.
 
It's not just convenience, the surface of an AF screen does not allow it to resolve past a certain point, it's actually a surface of lenses rather than a ground glass. This point is often given as an aperture value, from memory I think the D200 was f2.8, an F100 f2.2. If your 7d focuses accurately manually with no shim adjustment, good for you! My 450d (MF or AF) and the D200 (MF) did not.

No need for any hostilities... i'm honestly trying to learn more about using mf lenses with dslr's, not trying to boast anything about my 7d. Truth is, it is my first and I really don't know the science of how it knows when an object is in focus..
 
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