kshapero
South Florida Man
Any reason why I shouldn't shoot a small High school graduation of 35 12th graders with my Nikon FM3A and 3 primes (28, 50, 105) plus a Nikon SB-30 TTL Flash? I was planning on using Fuji Superia 400 color prints. The graduation is at 7 PM (still light) but surely won't end until darkness sets in. Probably can shoot flash less in the beginning but will certainly need the flash later to setup graduates with their parents for shots. It will be in a small auditorium with average lightning. I could probably get away with shooting 800 ISO and no flash but I am afraid to take the risk.
My other alternative would be to shoot digi.............................
My other alternative would be to shoot digi.............................
Brad Bireley
Well-known
Be it film or digital I would still use fill flash to make sure you can see their faces. The caps might/will cause a shadow.
Gumby
Veteran
I can't think of a reason why not. The comment about fill flash is highly enlightened. Ha ha, I crack myself up!
kshapero
South Florida Man
thanks but what does caps mean?
Gumby
Veteran
Cap = mortarboard hat.
mfogiel
Veteran
He probably meant the caps on the heads of the students...
I would certainly take a flash, and remember to rate neg film 250 iso at most, but in all honesty, you are likely to get sharper photos with the Zeiss glass on ZI, so ypu could use the FM3A only with the 105 lens.
I would certainly take a flash, and remember to rate neg film 250 iso at most, but in all honesty, you are likely to get sharper photos with the Zeiss glass on ZI, so ypu could use the FM3A only with the 105 lens.
kshapero
South Florida Man
Oh yeah,duh on me!!
kshapero
South Florida Man
I have never shoot with flash on my ZI. It feels, well it feels kinda sacrilegious to me. Plus the FM3A has TTL Flash. Hmmm but the 250 ISO sounds interesting.
photo4ls
Well-known
I always use the SC-17 ttl cord along
w/an umbrella. Makes a nice one light
setup. This should eliminate shadows
also.
Nelson
w/an umbrella. Makes a nice one light
setup. This should eliminate shadows
also.
Nelson
photophorous
Registered User
I think flash is the key here. If you're confident with the flash, then the camera and film should work just fine. I myself am more confident shooting idiot proof flash with a DSLR.
Paul
Paul
italy74
Well-known
Hi guys
sorry but I'm missing the point: why changing the ISO? It should mean that you're tricking exposure as if you would set a +2/3 ? Is it to let more ambient light enter the camera vs the flash light?
sorry but I'm missing the point: why changing the ISO? It should mean that you're tricking exposure as if you would set a +2/3 ? Is it to let more ambient light enter the camera vs the flash light?
photophorous
Registered User
No, increasing ambient light vs flash is done by decreasing shutter speed. I think the suggestion is just based on the general observation that most negative film benefits from a little bit of over exposure, while underexposure can be very bad. I'd say it's a safety measure, but that's just my take.
Paul
Last edited:
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Akiva,
If this 50's TLR can use the new (and cheap) wireless flash trigger, so can your FM3a
Seriously, bring a small flash and a reflector (doesn't have to be too big). Have someone hold the reflector somewhere on the side, and aim your flash to it. Beautiful student and parents portraits are easy this way.
If this 50's TLR can use the new (and cheap) wireless flash trigger, so can your FM3a
Seriously, bring a small flash and a reflector (doesn't have to be too big). Have someone hold the reflector somewhere on the side, and aim your flash to it. Beautiful student and parents portraits are easy this way.
