Nikon SLR wishlust

[marcr1230]

I intended wishlist but wishlust is pretty appropriate so I left my typo

Here's my wishlist

Black Nikon F , prism finder

Black F2, DE-1 Finder

Black or chrome FM3a

So - regarding lenses
I would like a 28 or 35, a 50 and an 85
(3 total)

What lens would be high quality contemporary lens for each body?

Are there and body focus screen or prism differences on these that I should be aware of?

Right now this is a theoretical exercise but if I win the powerball tonight - I'm gonna do it

I see the FM3a as a user, the other 2 as a use once in a while but mostly just collect

I used to have a black FM3a - sold it for a song when I was in a purging mood

Thanks!

 

[Ken Ford]

I'd say a Nikkor-O 35/2 and one of the 85/1.8s for the F and F2 with the 50 of your choice - the 55/1.2 would be exquisite.

Maybe Ai-s versions of the 35/1.4, 50/1.2 and 85/1.4 for the FM3a?

 

[marcr1230]

I just realized too - I have a ZF 50 planar which is a great lens but a pain to focus on my DSLR
So basically I need an FM3a, no longer theoretical

 

[BillBingham2]

For your F the triplet would be a 24/2.8, 50/1.4, 105/2.5.

For the F2, 35/1.4, 85/1.8, 180/2.8

For the FM3a 28/2.8 AIs, 50/1.8 (not sure which version is better) and a 135/2.

I think those triptychs of optics are what I would call the classic Nikkors for each era.

B2 (;->

 

[giganova]

My "dream lens combo" on my Nikon FE2s were 20/2.8, 50/1.4 and 80/2, all AI-S. Phenomenal lenses. On my M4 I have the CV 20/4 which doesn't even come to the AI-S 20/2.8 in terms of sharpness.

 

[jbielikowski]

As long as we talk about needs not lust the FM2 is perfect solution, a cheap too.

But hell, last weekend I finally found black F with plain prism in great price and condition, after more than 5 years of search, and it's worth looking for. Comes with Nikkor-H 50/2 and it's a great sharp lens for daily use. ZF Planar is a different cup of tea, less sharp wide open but more interesting.

F usually come with "A" screen and if you want to use lenses slower than 2.8 you may want to change it for default F2 screen "K". Personally I like "J" screen, without split image, microprism only.

I only used a few pre-ai Nikkors, 28/3.5 is a great match for F, with some classic look, bit of vignette wide open but sharp in the center, produce good saturated colors. And the real gem is old 105/2.5 with Sonnar formula.

 

[farlymac]

As far as screens go, the E is my favorite. Pretty much all of them are interchangeable from the F to the F2, other models have their own series. There are three colors of lettering (white, yellow, and red) which I've read different reasons why, but can't remember what the real one is. It might have to do with the different versions of the F body meter mounting (some early bodies have been modified to match the later ones).

I'm going to turn my F into a shelf queen as it has some mechanical issues that to me are not worth getting fixed.

PF

 

[marcr1230]

I went back and looked in my mail archives - I bought and sold a black FM3a in 2009 for about $300-$350

Now the prices on the Bay are approx double for a clean example :-(
What was I thinking

 

[Vics]

The Annie Leibovitz kit-
35 nikkor-o f2
55 micro-nikkor 3.5
105 nikkor-p 2.5

 

[DNG]

I have an F2 DP-1... looking for a DE-1 chrome in good shape also....

Lenses... my trio.... 24mm f/2.8 Ais, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S that needs to be Ai'd, no short tele yet, but looking at the 85mm f1.8 Ai/s,
Or... the 105mm f/2.5 Older version that is Ai'd (Sonnar design, later ones are Planar design) or the special Nikkor T 10.5cm f/4 preset....
A RF model made to a high IQ cheaper version of the 105mm f/2.5 for the F mount.

Though I am looking at the 35mm f/2.8 or the 28mm f/3.5 lens also......I am not a speed hog, so, the slower lenses work for me...
BUT, the 35mm O f/2 has a good rap.... 8 element design.

I also own an FM2n..... so I want to use then all both bodies.

I too would suggest all Ai lenses so you can use them on the F/F2 and FM3a

 

[marcr1230]

ok, I plan on winning the powerball lottery this week

do I get a chrome or black FM3a?

F "Apollo" or early model?

 

[Roger Hicks]

If you have a black F or two, why bother with the second-string models? After the F, the only other Nikon worth considering is a Df if you sometimes need digital. (Guess which Nikons I use...)

Cheers,

R.

 

[dasuess]

Ditto the F and the Df...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[pixelated]

A very clean circa 1971 50mm f/2 and a chrome F from around the same time frame.

Or else, a very particular one of that age that has a black Nikon name plate on the front that parted company from me in an unplanned way a little later.

 

[marcr1230]

Honestly I'm looking at these more for the enjoyment of collecting rather than daily use
I'd use the FM3a a lot I think
Probably use the F and F2 just a little, but who knows

I'm on a film binge these days. The FM3a is smaller and supposed to be the ultimate in robustness and reliability as well as the last mechanical Nikon designed. So potentially it has a longer useful life and design lessons from previous nikons are built in

The F2 is the professional tool - perhaps built to last forever and take lots of abuse
The F2 has gobs of accessories and such - although I don't seem myself acquiring more than a minimum

The F is more for collecting purposes - the example of the first Nikon SLR

I saw a YouTube video by Chuck Jines - about best film camera for street shooting
He likes the F2, doesn't like the F shutter button position and the fact the the back isn't hinged for quick easy film reloading. He didn't reference the FM3a but said the flaw of the FM series is the meter on/off switch is the wonder lever being pulled out or flush w camera , so the battery drains if you want to be ready to shoot cause the camera won't fire without the winder lever pulled out...

Regarding the F and F2 - is there any maintenance or seal/foam replacement that would be necessary?

Thanks sll

 

[Roger Hicks]

Honestly I'm looking at these more for the enjoyment of collecting rather than daily use
I'd use the FM3a a lot I think
Probably use the F and F2 just a little, but who knows

I'm on a film binge these days. The FM3a is smaller and supposed to be the ultimate in robustness and reliability as well as the last mechanical Nikon designed. So potentially it has a longer useful life and design lessons from previous nikons are built in

The F2 is the professional tool - perhaps built to last forever and take lots of abuse
The F2 has gobs of accessories and such - although I don't seem myself acquiring more than a minimum

The F is more for collecting purposes - the example of the first Nikon SLR

I saw a YouTube video by Chuck Jines - about best film camera for street shooting
He likes the F2, doesn't like the F shutter button position and the fact the the back isn't hinged for quick easy film reloading. He didn't reference the FM3a but said the flaw of the FM series is the meter on/off switch is the wonder lever being pulled out or flush w camera , so the battery drains if you want to be ready to shoot cause the camera won't fire without the winder lever pulled out...

Regarding the F and F2 - is there any maintenance or seal/foam replacement that would be necessary?

Thanks sll

The ultimate in robustness and reliability is the F. Why not use it? In my view you'd be crazy to use anything inferior, such as the FM2, which is a jumped-up Nikkormat

I've just checked both my black Fs and there's a foam mirror stop but it's in perfect condition on both of them, i.e. it hasn't dissolved into nasty crumbly dust. Light sealing is done properly, i.e. precision engineered labyrinthine: no foam. Or if there is, I've never noticed it, and I got my first F (which I still have) second hand around 40 years ago.

Cheers,

R

 

[mfogiel]

FM3A will be nice with smallish lenses. The F2 can handle a longer lens and be still well balanced. I would suggest to begin with your 50 Planar, get an inexpensive 85/2 or 105/2.5 and if you really want to go wide, my advice would be to save up and get a Zeiss lens: either the Hollywood Distagon 28/2 or the cheaper 25/2.8. Both have strong field curvature, but this can be an advantage if you like to isolate the subject more. For landscape I would just get the cheapest 28mm manual focus Nikon lens, and stop it down to f8.

FM3A+Distagon 25/2.8 ZF
RESTAURANT by marek fogiel, on Flickr

Or, better yet, Get a RF camera and the 25/28 ZM - this one is without faults, never mention the size:

ZF against ZM by marek fogiel, on Flickr

This is a top view of FM3A with 35/2 Distagon vs Zeiss Ikon with 35/2 Biogon

ZF against ZM_2 by marek fogiel, on Flickr

Biogon 25/2.8
20142222 by marek fogiel, on Flickr

 

[marcr1230]

I appreciate the advice Roger - I approach these things with the thought, "what if I'm climbing Mt Everest, or in a hurricane on a boat in the ocean", honestly though, I'm much more likely to be in a climate controlled coffee shop, but I will be ready just in case I am called to Everest.

Marc

 

[marcr1230]

Thanks Marek

I have the ZM Biogon 35/2.0 and agree it's a great lens in a small RF package

never heard of the "Hollywood" lens

nice pictures

my Planar is currently on a new to me FM2n and I look forward to the results.

FM3A will be nice with smallish lenses. The F2 can handle a longer lens and be still well balanced. I would suggest to begin with your 50 Planar, get an inexpensive 85/2 or 105/2.5 and if you really want to go wide, my advice would be to save up and get a Zeiss lens: either the Hollywood Distagon 28/2 or the cheaper 25/2.8. Both have strong field curvature, but this can be an advantage if you like to isolate the subject more. For landscape I would just get the cheapest 28mm manual focus Nikon lens, and stop it down to f8.

FM3A+Distagon 25/2.8 ZF
RESTAURANT by marek fogiel, on Flickr

Or, better yet, Get a RF camera and the 25/28 ZM - this one is without faults, never mention the size:

ZF against ZM by marek fogiel, on Flickr

This is a top view of FM3A with 35/2 Distagon vs Zeiss Ikon with 35/2 Biogon

ZF against ZM_2 by marek fogiel, on Flickr

Biogon 25/2.8
20142222 by marek fogiel, on Flickr

 

[marcr1230]

So here I am , 2 weeks later and many dollars poorer

I will reference 2 other threads

The great Keh feeding frenzy:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155905

and subsequent the arrival of the 2 F's purchased by Ken and myself ( Yay Chicago! )
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155934

Here's my update:

Wow - just was reading up on my new F "Apollo"

Mine is one of the last 1000 made, according to the Head Bartender's site: https://www.cameraquest.com/nfapol.htm

Some collectors pay big premiums for the "Apollo," usually out of proportion to their abundance. The only ones worth premiums are the last five thousand or so, because they were the last F's. Officially the last F was number 7451052, but later cameras which appear to be original have been found.

That is to say, if I paid a premium , it's okay because it's one of the few actually worth a premium.
now I'm scared to take it out.

Today, the chosen lens arrived from Japan, which was awfully fast considering I bought the lens on May 12. Received it May 16

The lens is a Nikkor-S Auto 55/1.2 (non-AI)

I was also busy on other GAS fronts
I acquired a beautiful black FM2n and winder from a fellow RFF'er - the sound of the shutter/winder/reset is amazing - I will record it and post at some point - quiet it is NOT.

I shot and developed a roll with the FM2n and 50 Planar over the weekend and will post when I scan later this week

I've also bought a Nikkor-P 105/2.5 (AI'd) , I just love the perspective and bokeh I see on examples ( the earlier Sonnar version )

A beautiful black FM3a arrived from Japan, I will be testing it in the next couple days but appears as advertised - clean and nice.

There's a couple more items on my GAS list then I am done for this year, I swear, yes, done.

I'm hesitating over the F2, as I'm full up on Nikon SLR's now