Not Another Yashica 35 POD problem

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lusth

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I'm trying to refurbish a Yashica Electro 35 GSN for my son who is into B&W film (he has his own darkroom). I made a battery adapter for the camera and most everything seems to work, including the battery check light and the over and under lights on the top plate and in the view finder.

What doesn't work is Bulb and Auto f\16. In both these modes, the shutter stays open until I start to advance the film for the next picture. The web says that this is likely a POD problem, so I took the top plate off and lo and behold, the POD looks fine (is orange the original color or has it already been replaced?), see attached image. Moreover when I took off the bottom plate and observed cocking the shutter in all modes, the pawl engages as it should. So I don't think it's a POD problem. I adjusted the shutter rods so that all three clicks from cocking the shutter happen at the same time (again, advice from the web), but no go.

If I disconnect the power when the shutter is open in these two problematic modes, the shutter closes immediately, so somehow, the electromagnets holding the shutter open are not disengaging when they should.

Is this a shutter rod problem? Can I adjust my way out of this issue? I don't want to give my son a camera that doesn't work in every situation it should (I'm kind of a perfectionist), so living with these minor issues is a no go. Should I just sell this camera, noting its limitations?

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Thanks monopix. That manual is kind of handy!


I will disassemble the lens down to the function selector board and see if there is anything awry...
 
The orange POD was likely made from a rubber hose washer, as it's about the same thickness. Certain other washers have been suggested that were usually green (synthetics).


PF
 
Here are some images of the function selector brushes and the function selector board. I see nothing amiss except the brushes on my camera seem to be canted inwards a bit compared to the photo in the manual. Is this something I should correct?
 

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lusth said:
Here are some images of the function selector brushes and the function selector board. I see nothing amiss except the brushes on my camera seem to be canted inwards a bit compared to the photo in the manual. Is this something I should correct?
Click to expand...

Brush position looks OK to me. The PCB contacts are looking like they could use a clean though. That could be (part of) the problem. Are the ends of the contacts gold plated? Is that the yellow I can see. I don't remember ever seeing that. But I would give them a clean as well.

If I understood your original post, the auto exposure mode doesn't work at f16 but is OK at other apertures. Is that correct? And the B setting doesn't work.

If the selector switches are not responsible for the B setting not working then I would guess it's the B switch which is in the body. Page 58 of the manual. But I've never seen that.

If I've understood the auto exposure issue, then it could be the aperture wiper which is under the resistor board. Page 123 of the manual. Maybe not making contact at f16.
 
The brushes look to be gold plated to me. I'll clean the contacts with alcohol (acetone? lighter fluid?).

Yes, Auto at apertures other than f16 seem to work appropriately. With Auto @ f16 and bulb, the shutter stays open until the film lever is advanced OR power is disconnected.

Thanks for the tips! I'll try cleaning, then the B switch, then the aperture wiper contact for f16...
 
Doesn't it seem unlikely, though, that there are two independent errors, each causing exactly the same symptom?
 
Another symptom. In bulb mode, the under light always comes on, no matter the f-stop and no matter the light source, including the sun. Is this normal behavior?
 
lusth said:
Another symptom. In bulb mode, the under light always comes on, no matter the f-stop and no matter the light source, including the sun. Is this normal behavior?
Click to expand...

I don't have a camera to check. Maybe someone else does. But looking at the circuit, it looks normal.
 
lusth said:
Doesn't it seem unlikely, though, that there are two independent errors, each causing exactly the same symptom?
Click to expand...

Not really.

Whether it's unlikely they both happen together depends on what they are. If both issues are corroded contacts then not unlikely. If they're completely different then I guess it's less likely. But I can't see a possible single cause for both problems so I'm assuming it's two separate ones.

If you have a test meter, a bit of probing around should tell you what the problem is.
 
B activates the SLOW alert suggesting you need a tripod (movement). B doesn't activate any time calculation so it won't take into consideration the actual light in your scene.
 
After cleaning the aperture selector contacts, still a no go. I'm not willing to remove the lens from the camera body, so I've put the camera up for sale on eBay.


Thanks for all your help. I've learned a lot and I have a Electro 35 GS I'm going to take a stab at. It has no power at all, so I'm hoping it's just a disconnected wire somewhere...
 
check the negative pole, usually you will find corrosion there. clean the wire + solder it to the pole.
 
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