PKR
Veteran
Ive been looking for a cable that will make all the proper electrical connections to allow a Fuji X Series TTL Flash to be used off camera. I want all the flash features via a cable.
I know about the use of Canon cables and their problems.
Do any of you know of a cable that will provide this ? If it has a 1/4 x 20 female on the flash end, all the better. I really don't want to have to make one.
Here's an example of a Nikon cable that I use. Fuji doesn't make anything like this that I can find.
Nikon SC-29
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/flash-cord/sc-29-ttl-coiled-remote-cord.html
thanks, pkr
I know about the use of Canon cables and their problems.
Do any of you know of a cable that will provide this ? If it has a 1/4 x 20 female on the flash end, all the better. I really don't want to have to make one.
Here's an example of a Nikon cable that I use. Fuji doesn't make anything like this that I can find.
Nikon SC-29
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/flash-cord/sc-29-ttl-coiled-remote-cord.html
thanks, pkr
Out to Lunch
Ventor
To be used with which camera? Fuji does not make flash cords. Have a look at this Vello TTL cord: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-FUHHr36yY
Bill Clark
Veteran
Does this interest you?
https://strobist.blogspot.com/
Lighting is one of the three important ingredients to consider when making photographs. It can be used, along with shadow, to create an illusion of three dimensions while operating with only two. The digital cameras I use have M mode for manual operation.
I found that TTL flash was a PITA. It can be easily fooled. Especially with the conditions I operated. I learned to operate the camera and flash using manual mode. Just like it was when I used one of my Hassleblad medium format cameras. Back then I used a Polaroid back to check things out. Digital is so much better than film. You know what you’ve got immediately and can make adjustments, if they are needed.
To get lighting the way I could control, I used Pocket Wizards with Quantum flash units mounted on light duty light stands. I always had an associate photographer at every event.
Off camera lighting is very important.
Please take a look at the link. It is very interesting.
Good luck.
https://strobist.blogspot.com/
Lighting is one of the three important ingredients to consider when making photographs. It can be used, along with shadow, to create an illusion of three dimensions while operating with only two. The digital cameras I use have M mode for manual operation.
I found that TTL flash was a PITA. It can be easily fooled. Especially with the conditions I operated. I learned to operate the camera and flash using manual mode. Just like it was when I used one of my Hassleblad medium format cameras. Back then I used a Polaroid back to check things out. Digital is so much better than film. You know what you’ve got immediately and can make adjustments, if they are needed.
To get lighting the way I could control, I used Pocket Wizards with Quantum flash units mounted on light duty light stands. I always had an associate photographer at every event.
Off camera lighting is very important.
Please take a look at the link. It is very interesting.
Good luck.
PKR
Veteran
I'm doing a little research before buying a X100V. The Canon cable's pins aren't a direct mechanical match. If the shoe isn't seated exactly over the camera's pin-out the contact fails. Moving the cable under normal use can cause a contact failure. I figure that, Vello copied Canon's pin position accurately ?
I've thought that, a Vello shoe(s) might be modified a bit to solve the contact problem.
PKR
Veteran
Thank's Bill. I need the TTL for auto fill flash in conditions where the sunlight varies during a shoot. I've been doing this with nikon gear for years.
I often use film in my work. I now use a digital camera in place of my old Forschier Polaroid back to check my flash lighting.
A lot of people use this:
https://www.lightpixlabs.com/pages/q20ii
But it could be too simple for you. How about other wireless triggers?
https://www.lightpixlabs.com/pages/q20ii
But it could be too simple for you. How about other wireless triggers?
PKR
Veteran
Hi John;
I have a couple of radio units. I use them with the studio flash. The cable allows the computers in the camera and flash to communicate. A radio will usually present a delay, even if the camera and flash are talking to each other. This is a bigger problem with a leaf shutter at higher sync speeds.
I need the camera and lighting unit, a Fuji flash unit or something compatible, talking to each other via TTL..using both sensors, camera's and the Flash's.
When i fill light for an outdoor portrait, the flash is off the camera and on a light stand. The head is bounced into an umbrella or soft box to soften the fill light. The sunlight is softened with a Scrim. The sensor on the flash reads the subject to deliver the amount of fill i've selected, keeping the amount, the proportion, the same with any variance in the sunlight.
Using TTL this way, i don't have to stop working to adjust the amount of fill every time a cloud gets between me and the sun. I just change my primary exposure and the fill light changes output automatically. This saves a lot of time. Portrait subjects are often nervous; fiddling with camera gear in the middle of a portrait session doesn't add to the comfort level.
https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/accessories/shoe-mount-flash-ef-x500/
For the Nikon gear, i have a couple of their TTL cables and, a custom 30 ft cable for firing multi SB flash heads for lighting a large area while in TTL. I can change the output from the camera. Tha Nikon CLS system will do the same but, there's a significant delay with CLS Command. And, no TTL feedback from the speedlights.
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000005072&configured=1&lang=en_GB
https://www.discoverdigitalphotography.com/2012/off-camera-flash-trigger-options/
PKR
Veteran
I don't know the level of interest re flash sync on here. With a leaf shutter, as on X100 models, syncing flash to sunlight at high shutter speeds is a big deal to flash users.
I found this explanation of sync issues with both optical and radio sync gear. Focal Plane Shutter users don't generally have these problems as, the sync speed is rarely above 1/250 sec.
However..
Snip
This was of some interest to me because I have been getting the horizontal bars, so I did a lot of research and some testing. My camera has a nominal sync speed of 1/200 and I am using Britek PS-200 and PS-250 strobes which have a flash duration of 1/1500s. My interest was because I noticed a significant difference when firing just one strobe with a radio trigger and using the built-in optical slaves on the others against having radio receivers on all of the strobes.
I did some testing and worked out that my curtain speed (the time from the curtain starting its travel to the time it finishes) is about 3.7ms, which allows just 1.3ms of the shutter being fully open for the flash to trigger, at a shutter speed of 1/200, before the rear curtain starts moving. I'm assuming that the camera triggers the flash immediately after the front curtain is fully open.
This means that, if my trigger mechanism induces a delay of more than 1.3ms, the rear curtain will have started moving before one or more of the strobes has fired. Although most radio and optical systems don't induce this kind of lag, if you use (as I did) a radio trigger on a master strobe and then optical slaves on the rest, the lag is compounded, and I occasionally found I was getting the black bars at 1/200 shutter speed. The weird thing is that it is not consistent and I have no explanation for that. I can fix the problem by using all radio triggers or dropping the shutter speed down to 1/160 or slower.
By the way, the significance of me mentioning the flash duration for my strobes is that, when using the shutter speeds close to your sync speed and if your strobe has a long duration - some have up to 1/500s or more - it is almost certain that the rear curtain will start closing before the strobe has finished firing. Instinctively, I would expect this to cause somewhat graded exposure across the image. My strobes have a fairly fast flash duration and I haven't noticed this effect but has anyone run across this?
share improve this answer
https://photo.stackexchange.com/que...or-flashes-radio-triggers-or-optical-triggers
I found this explanation of sync issues with both optical and radio sync gear. Focal Plane Shutter users don't generally have these problems as, the sync speed is rarely above 1/250 sec.
However..
Snip
This was of some interest to me because I have been getting the horizontal bars, so I did a lot of research and some testing. My camera has a nominal sync speed of 1/200 and I am using Britek PS-200 and PS-250 strobes which have a flash duration of 1/1500s. My interest was because I noticed a significant difference when firing just one strobe with a radio trigger and using the built-in optical slaves on the others against having radio receivers on all of the strobes.
I did some testing and worked out that my curtain speed (the time from the curtain starting its travel to the time it finishes) is about 3.7ms, which allows just 1.3ms of the shutter being fully open for the flash to trigger, at a shutter speed of 1/200, before the rear curtain starts moving. I'm assuming that the camera triggers the flash immediately after the front curtain is fully open.
This means that, if my trigger mechanism induces a delay of more than 1.3ms, the rear curtain will have started moving before one or more of the strobes has fired. Although most radio and optical systems don't induce this kind of lag, if you use (as I did) a radio trigger on a master strobe and then optical slaves on the rest, the lag is compounded, and I occasionally found I was getting the black bars at 1/200 shutter speed. The weird thing is that it is not consistent and I have no explanation for that. I can fix the problem by using all radio triggers or dropping the shutter speed down to 1/160 or slower.
By the way, the significance of me mentioning the flash duration for my strobes is that, when using the shutter speeds close to your sync speed and if your strobe has a long duration - some have up to 1/500s or more - it is almost certain that the rear curtain will start closing before the strobe has finished firing. Instinctively, I would expect this to cause somewhat graded exposure across the image. My strobes have a fairly fast flash duration and I haven't noticed this effect but has anyone run across this?
share improve this answer
https://photo.stackexchange.com/que...or-flashes-radio-triggers-or-optical-triggers
Out to Lunch
Ventor
Have a look here too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTm_nCuuSp8&t=109s