Olympus Trip 35

jukka_k

Newbie
Local time
2:12 PM
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
2
Hi,

First, great forum !

And a question, I'm sure there's people who know am I doing/thinking this right...

I got Olympus Trip 35, shot a test roll and it seems (but am not sure) that selenium cell light
metering is now working. If I have understood corrrectly it is possible to change aperture
(without flash) but then shutter is locked to 1/40. Anyway if I look fro instance from
BobShots exposure calculator values for heavy overcast (like now in Finland) is it possible
to use next values (for ASA 200 film): 1/40 for shutter (well it is locked), F/16 for
aperture and then chamge film speed to ASA 125 ? There's an option to make some
MacGyver stuff to add possibility to change shutter between two values (1/40 and 1/200)
but I'm not willing to do that yet.

Hope I sent this to right forum (General discussions).

Thanks very much for your help !


-Jukka

ps. Next I need to change the font so that I'm able to read what I wrote...
 
Sorry, I can't help you with the higher math (it makes my head spin). My trip 35 has a working meter. My advise would be: get one with a working meter. Trip 35's are widely available and there is little demand; but it's a great point-guessfocus-and-shoot. My wife likes to use it and the results are very acceptable.

<--- This picture was taken with the Trip 35.

(I don't think changing filmspeed to ASA 125 will accomplish anything if you're bypassing the meter by using the flash setting. Or did I missunderstand you?)

Wim
 
Last edited:
The trip shoots at 1/200 when you use the meter, at 1/40 when you take the camera off of the 'A' setting and set the aperature manually (these settings are intended to be used with a flash).

When using the metered 'A' setting, you can adjust the ASA setting to under/over expose a shot (i.e. you're using 200 speed film, you want to overexpose by one stop, adjust the ASA setting to 100); however, if you take the camera off the metered 'A' setting, the ASA setting has no bearing on anything: the camera will shoot at 1/40 and you adjust the aperature to get the exposure you want.

This page has a manual in English & German for the Olympus Trip 35.
 
Last edited:
The camera will shoot at 1/40 or 1/200 in metered mode. In manual/flash mode the shutter is locked at 1/40.
 
I might add that this is a tremendously fun camera to shoot with. Wish it could handle higher speed film though.
 
Thanks to all, I got the answer , ASA settings do not work in
manual mode. I'm just trying to find 'correct' exposure values
for Trip 35 when shutter is fixed to 1/40. Perhaps I need to
do that mod where it is possible to change manually between
1/40 and 1/200. I shot a test roll and this is really
fun camera to shoot with !
 
Last edited:
At 1/40 on a sunny day, using the 'sunny 16' rule, you want to be using real ISO 100 film on f/22 or ISO 25/50 film at f/16 (knock down that by a couple of stops if you're shooting in the shade).

The rule goes that on a sunny day you set the aperature to f/16 and the shutter speed to the closest recipricol of the film speed.

I've used this a few times with my very old Yashica SLR, it works pretty well with C41 film because of the extreme latitude.

Type in 'ultimate exposure meter' into Google for a printable guide.
 
There is a twist to the manual meter setting on the Trip-35 which means that it isn't entirely manual! From what I recall (and my Trip certainly does this) when you move from the "A" setting and select an aperture, the 1/40th second shutter speed is set but you don't necessarily get the aperture that you've chosen. The metering continues to work and if you appear to be over exposing and it sets an aperture smaller than the one you've selected. It only opens to the aperture that you've selected if that would represent underexposure compared with what the meter sees. It sounds complicated but it's actually a very simple mechanism that does this.

I didn't buy a Trip when I first saw one for £8 (with a 1 year warranty!) because I didn't realise this and thought that it was broken when it didn't appear to be opening to the wide aperture that I'd set (in bright light). There a web site that describes this in detail somewhere but I can't remember where it is.
 
Back
Top Bottom