meeker
Established
Hi,
In preparation for developing my own film, I've loaded up a the reel in my tank with expired film in daylight, in practice for doing it in the dark. Now, since it's used and I don't have directions, is there an easy way to remove the film from the reel? Does it pull apart, or do you just unroll it? It seems unrolling is not ideal because it hangs up once per revolution on a couple of tabs. Also, does the black flange on the center column go at the bottom? I have a 1x35mm tank. Sorry it this is all completely obvious - I'm sure it will be second nature in short order.
cheers,
In preparation for developing my own film, I've loaded up a the reel in my tank with expired film in daylight, in practice for doing it in the dark. Now, since it's used and I don't have directions, is there an easy way to remove the film from the reel? Does it pull apart, or do you just unroll it? It seems unrolling is not ideal because it hangs up once per revolution on a couple of tabs. Also, does the black flange on the center column go at the bottom? I have a 1x35mm tank. Sorry it this is all completely obvious - I'm sure it will be second nature in short order.
cheers,
MartinP
Veteran
Goinng n reverse order,
Yes, the flange on the centre column goes to the bottom of the tank and fits over the shape in the centre. The funnel-lid fits inside the top of the centre column, therebye keeping everything light tight (but don't work with the tank in brilliant sunshine etc of course).
The film is removed by squeezing the outer end slightly so that the film bows (don't squeeze it very far, not enough to make a kink) and becomes narrow enough to slip past the ball-bearing ratchets. After a couple of inches the film will not catch on the bits of plastic anymore, and also the film will be wet (after washing) so when you really need it to come out smoothly it will do so.
Don't turn and unclick the two halves of the reel, else you will have kinks and bends all along the film as the two parts turn against each other for the unclicking !
PS. Good luck with your developing. You have done exactly the right and sensible thing by trying a practice film first.
PPS. If you get to develop many films you might find it convenient to get yourself a "changing-bag" off ebay. These are basically light-tight bags with a couple of elasticated armholes, allowing you to load the reel and close the tank without having to blackout a room first. Very convenient.
Yes, the flange on the centre column goes to the bottom of the tank and fits over the shape in the centre. The funnel-lid fits inside the top of the centre column, therebye keeping everything light tight (but don't work with the tank in brilliant sunshine etc of course).
The film is removed by squeezing the outer end slightly so that the film bows (don't squeeze it very far, not enough to make a kink) and becomes narrow enough to slip past the ball-bearing ratchets. After a couple of inches the film will not catch on the bits of plastic anymore, and also the film will be wet (after washing) so when you really need it to come out smoothly it will do so.
Don't turn and unclick the two halves of the reel, else you will have kinks and bends all along the film as the two parts turn against each other for the unclicking !
PS. Good luck with your developing. You have done exactly the right and sensible thing by trying a practice film first.
PPS. If you get to develop many films you might find it convenient to get yourself a "changing-bag" off ebay. These are basically light-tight bags with a couple of elasticated armholes, allowing you to load the reel and close the tank without having to blackout a room first. Very convenient.
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meeker
Established
Cheers Martin! I followed you up to "Don't turn... the unclicking !" By this do you mean, don't ratchet the reel when removing the film?
Yes, a changing bag is on the list - but a closet will do for now.
Yes, a changing bag is on the list - but a closet will do for now.
MartinP
Veteran
Oops, not exactly . . . Years ago I saw a fellow student try to get his film off the reel by opening the two halves - he said that he usually used stainless steel reels (not much of an excuse), but the film was messed up.
The ratchet action only works in one direction, and only with a dry film & reel, so when you take the film out you need to gently curve it out away from the ratchet things, as I described above and like you have probably now seen with your test roll.
If the film sticks slightly when you are winding it on, flex the sides of the reel very gently or tap on the sides to try to get the roll loose again. That pretty much always frees up the film enough for the ratchets to do their thing, assuming the problem is a bit of dried crud in the reel. The main cause of a loading total-disaster is accidentally using a damp reel, because the film will then just stick due to the surface-tension of the water on the reel channel.
The reel comes apart if you twist a bit further than you would for the ratcheting motion. The two parts lock together at three different distances apart, to allow adjustment for 35mm, 127 and 120 sized films and also to simplify cleaning (use a clean, new nail-brush or toothbrush). Of course, one needs a deeper tank for developing the wider film, but the Paterson reel design is standard for their tanks.
The ratchet action only works in one direction, and only with a dry film & reel, so when you take the film out you need to gently curve it out away from the ratchet things, as I described above and like you have probably now seen with your test roll.
If the film sticks slightly when you are winding it on, flex the sides of the reel very gently or tap on the sides to try to get the roll loose again. That pretty much always frees up the film enough for the ratchets to do their thing, assuming the problem is a bit of dried crud in the reel. The main cause of a loading total-disaster is accidentally using a damp reel, because the film will then just stick due to the surface-tension of the water on the reel channel.
The reel comes apart if you twist a bit further than you would for the ratcheting motion. The two parts lock together at three different distances apart, to allow adjustment for 35mm, 127 and 120 sized films and also to simplify cleaning (use a clean, new nail-brush or toothbrush). Of course, one needs a deeper tank for developing the wider film, but the Paterson reel design is standard for their tanks.
BSchall
Established
I've seperate the two halves of the reel all the time to unload it and never had a problem. I can't see where there's much difference in unlocking the halves than there is loading the film.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I always split the reels when removing the film...didn't know people did it any other way...silly me...
oscroft
Veteran
I always remove my films by unwinding them rather than separating the spool halves - I find it easier to handle that way. Also, I think it unwinds easier when wet than when dry.
Oppositely, of course, the spools must be really dry when loading the film in the first place or it will stick - I think trying to load damp spools is probably the biggest mistake that beginners make. I make sure mine are bone dry by using a hair dryer on them before I use them (but be careful - I melted one once!)
Oppositely, of course, the spools must be really dry when loading the film in the first place or it will stick - I think trying to load damp spools is probably the biggest mistake that beginners make. I make sure mine are bone dry by using a hair dryer on them before I use them (but be careful - I melted one once!)
R
RML
Guest
Only recently I found out how to separate the parts of the spool. The instructions were clear but I dared not to risk breaking the spool. So, when taking the film off the spool, I simply pull it out of the spool.
markinlondon
Elmar user
I'll always just pull the film out. I've never liked the idea of half a reel in each hand and a wet 1.5m length of film to handle all at once. It sounds like a recipe for wet film all over the place to me.
iml
Well-known
Me too. Dan, it just pulls out, just squeeze the film edges a little at first to narrow it, and it should come off the reel easily.
If you ever shoot 120 format you need to separate the reel and reconstruct it at the wider setting. It's easy to do, I don't think it would be easy to break.
Ian
If you ever shoot 120 format you need to separate the reel and reconstruct it at the wider setting. It's easy to do, I don't think it would be easy to break.
Ian
meeker
Established
ChrisPlatt said:Once you become adept at loading you might want to have a drink beforehand, too.
Is this the Charlie Papazian school of homebrew developing?
All - thanks for the tips. I'll mix up my first batch of D-76 tonight.
oscroft
Veteran
*Real* adeptness is having a drink while you're doing it