Preventing cracked vulcanite?

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GarageBoy

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I got this other wise mint IIIF self timer where the vulcanite ultimately debonded and cracked. Pretty sure it lived in a leather case it's whole life. (I love hunting cameras on ebay this way, they were generally some amateur's baby, and though all the lubricants are dried out, they're usually cosmetically perfect) Also pretty sure the leather contributed to the vulcanite hardening, separating and cracking.

Are there good treatments for vulcanite to keep it soft, or it's just 70+ year old plastic that will crack? I see plenty of pre war cameras with vulcanite that's just fine
 
I can't answer your questions, but I bought my IIIf is 1964 and threw out the case. Which I now wish I hadn't, in those days I didn't think it looked cool. So you may have something with respect to the storage in a leather case. Of course more experienced collectors will hopefully contribute. My IIIf's vulcanite (?) looks new, I hope I haven't jinked it.

EDIT: I remember when Amour-All first came out it was said to increase cracking of dashboards, I don't if that is right or an urban myth.
 
Not much you can do for cracked vulcanite on Leicas, you can stabilise small cracks with some contact cement but the over brittleness can become too much and the stuff just breaks in pieces in your hands.

Taking the body shell off on a lllc or lllf for a CLA or other repairs usually has the misfortune to do major damage to brittle and breaking vulcanite anyways and the stuff just needs to be replaced totally. Aki-Asahi sells good replacement body covering for around 22 USD for your lllf with ST so it is not a big or costly deal.

Pre war Leicas had more durable vulcanite and also had less fade resistant RF 50/50 mirrors too than the post war LTM Leicas. The sharkskin type vulcanite of the late 1940s was excellent for durability but that was dropped from use after a short time, maybe Leica users did not like the feel of that rough feeling covering?
 
Of my four Barnacks (IIIa, 2 IIIcs, and a IIIg), the only one with intact vulcanite is my sharkskin IIIc. No idea if that's meaningful, but I'm glad it worked out that way, as I prefer the sharkskin to the regular pattern. The only thing I've used on the sharkskin covering is Lexol Vinylex.

I replaced the failed stuff with new from Hugo Studio; no complaints.
 
Is there a service to replace the covers (if I ever needed it)? I would not want to do this myself. Rick Oleson did a great job on my Olympus 35RC, and I think I would want some else to place it.
 
The Leica cover is RUBBER vulcanised ( heat bonded) to body before assembly. Rubber cracks when old. If the camera were new, something like McGuires rubber and tire conditioner. Too late now. Replace with self adhesive covering.
 
charjohncarter said:
Sorry, I meant I don't want to do it, I want to send the camera to someone and have them to the whole enchilada.
Click to expand...

You can buy the right cover for your camera online and any local camera tech worth his or her salt can clean the old covering off and put in the new one for not much money.

In most cases it is a simple procedure even for do-it-yourselfers, EG: the Aki-Asahi covering for my Leica IIIc was a cinch to put on.
 
Didn't CRR in the UK offer proper vulcanite replacement?

Aki-Asahis self-adhesive stuff is good! Not true vulcanite but looks the part. Not difficult to apply yourself.
 
Mr_Flibble said:
Didn't CRR in the UK offer proper vulcanite replacement?

Aki-Asahis self-adhesive stuff is good! Not true vulcanite but looks the part. Not difficult to apply yourself.
Click to expand...

Yes CRR used to offer the service but he has retired. This involved getting the 'gutta percha' in hard sheets like lasagna, heating it and hot moulding the correct pattern for the year onto it then heating it again to soften and bending it round the camera.

The bit below about R/F mirrors is a new one on me, not my experience, I'd be interested to know where it came from?

"Pre war Leicas had more durable vulcanite and also had less fade resistant RF 50/50 mirrors too than the post war LTM Leicas."
 
Here's a fix that will work out almost invisible. Sika and similar companies make a range of flexible PU and other mastic type sealants. A couple are the pale vulcanite color. They are all slow enough curing that you can fill the gaps and after a while make the vulcanite pattern with a toothpick and fingernail. The sealant should be dry on the surface for that 'patterning'. If you then dust it with a little talcum you will get that dry look of old vulcanite.
Also works on damaged FSU skins.
The benefit is that it leaves you with an original appearance rather than shiny new 'tell all that I've renovated the precious thing' . Also it is really cheap to do. A tube will do 100+ vulcanite bodies. I have patched quite large fallen off sections and no one at a foot or so away noticed. If you want use some shiny polish to even the different materials. Leatherique Rejuvenator oil for example.
 
Thanks - I was looking for a "magic potion" that I'm not sure exists. I deal with vulcanite in other hobbies (fountain pens and briar pipes), but it's used in thicker cross sections
 
The original vulcanite is thicker that the replacement covers I’ve used. The body then feels thinner than the top and bottom caps, rather than a tad thicker. IF you can repair your covering you’ll have a better in hand camera feel. I’ve filled small missing areas with epoxy putty. This is sold as a “tube” containing the black resin paste and grey hardener. Kneading small amounts in hand mixes the two, and you have several minutes of working time. Taking small pieces, press into the voids, then smooth and create a “pattern” with a toothpick. As long as you’re not trying to sell your camera as Mint++ you’ll find that with some work old Vulcanite Can soldier on. BTW black shoe polish will spiff up the Vulcanite nicely but don’t do that before the epoxy patches are fully cured.
 
The bit below about R/F mirrors is a new one on me, not my experience, I'd be interested to know where it came from?

"Pre war Leicas had more durable vulcanite and also had less fade resistant RF 50/50 mirrors too than the post war LTM Leicas."[/QUOTE]


It comes from my observations in trying out LTM Leicas at camera shows and the input of a very experienced Toronto camera tech who has now passed away.
 
Thanks. Don patched up the vulcanite for me when he did a full service, I was just wondering if there was a way to prevent it from cracking to begin with
 
Cracked vulcanite: fix it or ignore it?

Cracked vulcanite: fix it or ignore it?

I bought a Leica III-F, and the vulcanite is flaking off. Would it be worth my time to replace the old stuff, or is there another fix for this problem? My camera is a fun user, no special collector's value, so I don't think it's critical that the covering should be pristine or original.

Thanks to all who reply.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)
 
Vulcanite performs certain functions - it protects the metal body of the camera from handling (skin acids, sweat etc.) and aids in secure handling of the camera - it is not very "grippy" but it is sufficiently so as to help. In principle, it is therefore worth making sure that it is able to fulfill those functions. If it is cracking and breaking off it will by definition get worse with use and time. If you still have any pieces of vulcanite that have broken away then I would suggest gluing them back in place even if you are not bothered by appearance issues. If it has gone too far then I would certainly buy replacement from one of the firms selling the stuff.
 
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