OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I'm photographing a singer this evening, a favour as opposed to a job, and I plan on pushing K400 to EI 1600. Does anyone have any experience of this and any developing tips, especially if you've used HC-110.
My google search provided some examples which varied greatly in their look. Some taken outdoors just looked dull and grey whilst some indoors had some real bite and a nice level of contrast - I realise much depends on the conditions, photographers and dev techniques but I thought I'd give it a whirl.
Apologies if I've missed a 20 page thread about this, but I found nothing.
Thanks
My google search provided some examples which varied greatly in their look. Some taken outdoors just looked dull and grey whilst some indoors had some real bite and a nice level of contrast - I realise much depends on the conditions, photographers and dev techniques but I thought I'd give it a whirl.
Apologies if I've missed a 20 page thread about this, but I found nothing.
Thanks
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
hi. i regularly push kentmere 400 to 800,
and also with HC-110. I use the stand
method, with 2 agitations in between stand.
attached is a sample pic, m2 + collapsible cron.
cooked in hc110 @ 30C (!) for 45mins in
1+100 dilution. it is grainy accentuated by
the higher temp in development.
sorry. i have not done 1600 yet.
raytoei
and also with HC-110. I use the stand
method, with 2 agitations in between stand.
attached is a sample pic, m2 + collapsible cron.
cooked in hc110 @ 30C (!) for 45mins in
1+100 dilution. it is grainy accentuated by
the higher temp in development.
sorry. i have not done 1600 yet.
raytoei
Attachments
kdemas
Enjoy Life.
I will be shooting it at 1600 this weekend and plan to use a Rodinal stand with the initial attempt. We shall see...
Lund
Established
Not sure if it helps you but I tried kentmere 400 @ 1600 in xtol 1+1. Kind of grainy but otherwise real nice.
This is even oversharpened a bit in post to get a rougher look to it.
This is even oversharpened a bit in post to get a rougher look to it.

OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
30c! Woah, I might need a bit more experience before I try that. Your EI 800 example looks pretty good and I wonder if the grain may be slightly similar at EI 1600 if cooked at 20c at Stand dev'd. I guess I'll find out!
I assume Stand Dev method is a good way to keep grain and contrast down a bit on pushed films - going back to film is making me such a beginner again, which isn't necessarily a bad thing
I assume Stand Dev method is a good way to keep grain and contrast down a bit on pushed films - going back to film is making me such a beginner again, which isn't necessarily a bad thing
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
Thanks Lund. Looks like K400 can certainly go to 1600 without too many issues.
I wish I knew more about different developers but I'd like to try and standardise on a dev and film combo before experimenting further with different chemicals and films.
I'm having so much more fun with film this time around, maybe I've finally grown up and got some patience

I wish I knew more about different developers but I'd like to try and standardise on a dev and film combo before experimenting further with different chemicals and films.
I'm having so much more fun with film this time around, maybe I've finally grown up and got some patience
Lund
Established
Found another photo from the same roll. Softer daytime light, and almost no postprocessing.

goo0h
Well-known
Not sure if it helps you but I tried kentmere 400 @ 1600 in xtol 1+1. Kind of grainy but otherwise real nice.
This is even oversharpened a bit in post to get a rougher look to it.
![]()
Interesting. It almost has a Neopan 1600 look to it.
haempe
Well-known
I shoot Kentmere 400 usualy @1600. Works well with T-Max Developer in 1+4.
Both below EI 1600 in T-Max1+4 20°C 12 min.
Both below EI 1600 in T-Max1+4 20°C 12 min.


OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I know I'm using a different developer Lund, but are you able to give an idea of timings you used for this? I'm just wondering about Stand Dev or a more normal dev proceedure, my stand dev stuff has been underwhelming so far but this is probably just me.
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
Nice shots Haempe, does the T-Max offer anything inparticular to pushed film do you know?
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Simon,
yeah....i develop at higher temp here in asia to keep
things really simple. on the plus side, the dev time is shortened,
on the negative side, the grains can get out of hand.
here is another example, the dev time has been shorted to 35mins.
hexar rf metering with nikkor 50/f2, at 800 iso
yeah....i develop at higher temp here in asia to keep
things really simple. on the plus side, the dev time is shortened,
on the negative side, the grains can get out of hand.
here is another example, the dev time has been shorted to 35mins.
hexar rf metering with nikkor 50/f2, at 800 iso
Attachments
haempe
Well-known
Hard to say. I'm simply used to it.Nice shots Haempe, does the T-Max offer anything inparticular to pushed film do you know?
T-Max Dev. is my push-developer and I use it only for that.
I made a comparision with Xtol and liked T-Max better.
Not the pronounced grain of Xtol and a bit more shadow detail.
I use it with K400@1600 and TMZ@3200.
No doubt DDX would do the same or better, but T-Max is cheaper.
iuseruby
Member
gsgary
Well-known
Not used Kentmere but push HP5 in Rodinal using 1+100 1 hour stand agitation for first minute
ISO 3200 1 hour stand
ISO 3200 1 hour stand

Ljós
Well-known
Wow, first time I see that effect. Very interesting. Tell us more if you can
Greetings, Ljós
leicapixie
Well-known
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2080300#post2080300
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2080300#post2080300
The OP has been given a number of options.
The right thing to do now, is simulate the shoot.
Shoot some frames and cut out of camera.
Or shoot many frames "bracketing" exposures..
Develop film and see.
As a pro, i often tested flashes, umbrellas, simulated shoots.
Make some positives, via scanner or actual prints.
A quick test could also be aided with a digital!
Warning.Digitals "see" way better than film in dark light.
available light conditions.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2080300#post2080300
The OP has been given a number of options.
The right thing to do now, is simulate the shoot.
Shoot some frames and cut out of camera.
Or shoot many frames "bracketing" exposures..
Develop film and see.
As a pro, i often tested flashes, umbrellas, simulated shoots.
Make some positives, via scanner or actual prints.
A quick test could also be aided with a digital!
Warning.Digitals "see" way better than film in dark light.
available light conditions.
geertvn
Established
Kentmere 400 @ 1600. I develop it in DDX 1+4 at 20°C for 15min and 15 sec. (3 inversions every minute.) The negatives might be a little thin for wet printing, but they scan pretty good. Works for me.
benji77
@R.F.F
Yes you can push this, though you need to reduce the agitations to keep the grains in control. Contrast is heavy (to me), so you might want to shoot at 1600, develop at 1250 for some leeway 
Sorry I cant find samples from my hosting site as I dont record them in detail enough.
I have tried it with DDX, T-Max, R09, Ilfosol 3.
I think T-Max and DDX works best for me.
Sorry I cant find samples from my hosting site as I dont record them in detail enough.
I have tried it with DDX, T-Max, R09, Ilfosol 3.
I think T-Max and DDX works best for me.
louisbrown08
Member
I've had some great experience pushing it to 1600 in tmax dvev, I did a fair bit of testing and found that to be my favourite combo;



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