Pushing Kentmere 400 to EI 1600

OurManInTangier

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I'm photographing a singer this evening, a favour as opposed to a job, and I plan on pushing K400 to EI 1600. Does anyone have any experience of this and any developing tips, especially if you've used HC-110.

My google search provided some examples which varied greatly in their look. Some taken outdoors just looked dull and grey whilst some indoors had some real bite and a nice level of contrast - I realise much depends on the conditions, photographers and dev techniques but I thought I'd give it a whirl.

Apologies if I've missed a 20 page thread about this, but I found nothing.

Thanks
 
hi. i regularly push kentmere 400 to 800,
and also with HC-110. I use the stand
method, with 2 agitations in between stand.

attached is a sample pic, m2 + collapsible cron.
cooked in hc110 @ 30C (!) for 45mins in
1+100 dilution. it is grainy accentuated by
the higher temp in development.

sorry. i have not done 1600 yet.

raytoei
 

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I will be shooting it at 1600 this weekend and plan to use a Rodinal stand with the initial attempt. We shall see...
 
Not sure if it helps you but I tried kentmere 400 @ 1600 in xtol 1+1. Kind of grainy but otherwise real nice.

This is even oversharpened a bit in post to get a rougher look to it.
8456168397_ac07105351_z.jpg
 
30c! Woah, I might need a bit more experience before I try that. Your EI 800 example looks pretty good and I wonder if the grain may be slightly similar at EI 1600 if cooked at 20c at Stand dev'd. I guess I'll find out!

I assume Stand Dev method is a good way to keep grain and contrast down a bit on pushed films - going back to film is making me such a beginner again, which isn't necessarily a bad thing :D
 
Thanks Lund. Looks like K400 can certainly go to 1600 without too many issues.

I wish I knew more about different developers but I'd like to try and standardise on a dev and film combo before experimenting further with different chemicals and films.

I'm having so much more fun with film this time around, maybe I've finally grown up and got some patience ;) :)
 
Not sure if it helps you but I tried kentmere 400 @ 1600 in xtol 1+1. Kind of grainy but otherwise real nice.

This is even oversharpened a bit in post to get a rougher look to it.
8456168397_ac07105351_z.jpg

Interesting. It almost has a Neopan 1600 look to it.
 
I shoot Kentmere 400 usualy @1600. Works well with T-Max Developer in 1+4.
Both below EI 1600 in T-Max1+4 20°C 12 min.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
I know I'm using a different developer Lund, but are you able to give an idea of timings you used for this? I'm just wondering about Stand Dev or a more normal dev proceedure, my stand dev stuff has been underwhelming so far but this is probably just me.
 
Simon,

yeah....i develop at higher temp here in asia to keep
things really simple. on the plus side, the dev time is shortened,
on the negative side, the grains can get out of hand.

here is another example, the dev time has been shorted to 35mins.
hexar rf metering with nikkor 50/f2, at 800 iso
 

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Nice shots Haempe, does the T-Max offer anything inparticular to pushed film do you know?
Hard to say. I'm simply used to it.
T-Max Dev. is my push-developer and I use it only for that.
I made a comparision with Xtol and liked T-Max better.
Not the pronounced grain of Xtol and a bit more shadow detail.
I use it with K400@1600 and TMZ@3200.
No doubt DDX would do the same or better, but T-Max is cheaper.
 


Kentmere 400 pushed to 800

HC110 delution H 20C 19-20 minutes, agitate first minute and then one agitation per minute

pattern on film because film was friezed when drying :)

I'm going to try push kentemere to 1600 with HC110 dilution H 20C 28-30 minutes
 
Not used Kentmere but push HP5 in Rodinal using 1+100 1 hour stand agitation for first minute

ISO 3200 1 hour stand

Rogues%20gallery9-XL.jpg
 
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2080300#post2080300

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2080300#post2080300

The OP has been given a number of options.
The right thing to do now, is simulate the shoot.
Shoot some frames and cut out of camera.
Or shoot many frames "bracketing" exposures..
Develop film and see.
As a pro, i often tested flashes, umbrellas, simulated shoots.
Make some positives, via scanner or actual prints.
A quick test could also be aided with a digital!
Warning.Digitals "see" way better than film in dark light.
available light conditions.
 
Kentmere 400 @ 1600. I develop it in DDX 1+4 at 20°C for 15min and 15 sec. (3 inversions every minute.) The negatives might be a little thin for wet printing, but they scan pretty good. Works for me.
 
Yes you can push this, though you need to reduce the agitations to keep the grains in control. Contrast is heavy (to me), so you might want to shoot at 1600, develop at 1250 for some leeway :)

Sorry I cant find samples from my hosting site as I dont record them in detail enough.

I have tried it with DDX, T-Max, R09, Ilfosol 3.
I think T-Max and DDX works best for me.
 
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