Pushing TRI-X 400 to 1600 and using Rodinal 1:50

Znerken

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Hey everyone.

I am currently pushing tri-x 35mm to 1600, and was wondering if the result will be good in Rodinal 1:50? Right now I will use a professional lab with a technician I have used before. He said that if you know Rodinal well you will get great results with Rodinal 1:50 at pushed tri-x. What's your experience with this? I read places online that Rodinal is NOT good to use with pushed film, but then I can't understand why the lab would use it, and why there is tons of photos taken with tri-x EI 1600 and developed in Rodinal.

Until now I have used DDX, but I actually haven't been quite satisfied with the result. I know the lab uses machines, and there are quite often water marks on the negatives.

Please note that I know the downsides of pushing film, but the dark blacks and the gritty look is why I started pushing the film. Right now I also push because I really need the speed.
 
Give him a test roll and see if the results suit you. You're the only one who has to be pleased with the outcome. If you like it, it's fine. If not, try something else. I've been pushing Tri-X for years, first out of necessity and now because I like the results. I, too, have used DDX and not been happy with the results. Now I'm either using Diafine, which is a sure thing, or highly dilute D-23 with intermittent agitation. Again, it's your choice.
 
Good timing on this thread.. I actually have a roll of Tri-X that i shot at 1600 just for kicks. All i own is Rodinal.

I'm stuck deciding between using the massive dev chart's recommendation of 1+50, 18:30 @ 20deg or doing a stand development.

I recently did a roll of HP5+ shot at 1600 on a 60min semi-stand dev in Rodinal 1+100. 10 seconds agitation at first then a single inversion at 30min. I loved the results.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mangler/21803733836/in/album-72157658383946751/

Decisions.. decisions..
 
I would recommend 1+100, 1.5 hour semi-stand. I get great results with this recipe. Lovely grain, nice texture in the highlights and very black blacks 🙂
Downside is this only works for one film at a time.
 
Personal opinion is touchy -- I use DDX and like the results as it's a great developer for extra speed/pushing.

Rodinal isn't the best for pushing in my experience, but again if you like the 'look' and don't mind the longer times, then try it.

I'd suggest trying out Microphen or TMax developer, both ideal for pushing, first though.
 
One thing probably worth mentioning is that the lab dont do stand development. It simply takes too long. 1:50 is something like semi stand, isn't it?


I have 10 rolls of tri-x waiting to be developed, so I don't know if I have the time for a test roll..hehe 😀
 
esc_ctrl, what's your "semi stand" process? I've tried a few methods with hp5+, but never with Tri-X.

My last success was regular agitation for 5 minutes, then rest for 55min. I've also tried 10 seconds initial agg, then 1 inversion at 30min. I didn't like that as much...
 
Personal opinion is touchy -- I use DDX and like the results as it's a great developer for extra speed/pushing.

Rodinal isn't the best for pushing in my experience, but again if you like the 'look' and don't mind the longer times, then try it.

I'd suggest trying out Microphen or TMax developer, both ideal for pushing, first though.

When you refer to "the look", what is it compared to DDX? The fellow at the lab said that grain-wise it wouldn't be much difference between DDX and Rodinal if you did it correctly, just that Rodinal would be sharper.
 
Why esc ctrl mentioned both 1+100 and semi stand ?


1+100 is your typical "Stand" dilution.

Regular stand means you do an initial agitation and then *nothing* for the duration of the time.

Semi-stand means you add some minor agitation throughout the time. Maybe once every 20 minutes, maybe once in the middle... they're all considered semi-stand, but there are many techniques.
 
I'm far from an expert, but Rodinal is a developer that normally doesn't pair well with high-speed films. Especially pushing is icky.
I'd try stand development 1:100. 15 inversions at the beginning, one slooow inversion at 30 mins, then 30 more mins and 15 seconds of agitation at the end.
 
i think i'll do my roll of Tri-X @1600 tonight with regular 1+50 for 18:30, agitations each minute.

I'll post some results in a few days after i have time to scan. Hopefully that'll give the OP something to consider one way or another.
 
i think i'll do my roll of Tri-X @1600 tonight with regular 1+50 for 18:30, agitations each minute.

I'll post some results in a few days after i have time to scan. Hopefully that'll give the OP something to consider one way or another.


Thank you, thats the method the lab uses I believe! I am really looking forward to the results.
 
I'm far from an expert, but Rodinal is a developer that normally doesn't pair well with high-speed films. Especially pushing is icky.
I'd try stand development 1:100. 15 inversions at the beginning, one slooow inversion at 30 mins, then 30 more mins and 15 seconds of agitation at the end.

Stand is a no go at the lab.
 
Why is Rodinal normally not suggested for push development? Gives lower speed?

So if I shoot TriX at 1600 and develop in R09 1:50 for 18.5 minutes I am really getting 1200 ASA or something similar?

Perhaps I just don't know what "Gives lower speed" means...

Thanks,
Ben
 
I tried the R09/Tri-X @ 1600 combo over a year ago, because the light is dim here in wintertime and the thought of using a tripod with 35mm negates the benefits of the format for me. This thread ( http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00C0U2 ) turned me on to the possibilities with it.

I deviated somewhat from the instructions, giving my film 30 seconds initial agitation and then 5 soft inversions every 5 minutes. 1:50 for 25 minutes at 68 degrees F. It works for me! I can't say for sure if it gives a true ISO 1600 or not, but it gives me enough speed to get shots I'd otherwise miss out on. That's the most important thing.

I do miss the tonality of Tri-X at 400.
 
+1 for 1:100 semi-stand aggitation for the first 30-60seconds and then very gentle every 30min
I do it for two hours - a little test series from 200-6400 made me believe that the ball point exposure there lies somewhere between 800-1600 but both are very good. Actually all except 6400 where usable. 200 and 3200 are a bit on the fence. but I'd argue the latitude is good to go from 400-2400 on one roll. (except when you want fine art prints then most people will tell you to use fine grain developers and pull to 320 or 200)

But then again - this was no science, I do not use light meters for b/w so...
 
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