QL17-L light meter dead?

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omblod

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Hi folks,

Got my first QL17-L (I believe) a few weeks ago and very pleased with it although the light meter doesn't appear to be working.

I cleaned the battery contact, inserted a new Weincell battery and the needle jumps to the centre when I press the battery check button however there's no reaction when I set to A. Has anyone any suggestions or will I just have to accept the electric eye is dead and continue using sunny 16 as I've done for the past month?

It's been a while since I've shot film and I've never worked completely manual so an automatic mode would ease me in gently!

Thanks for your help, Ron.
 
Bite the bullet... buy a good light meter

Bite the bullet... buy a good light meter

and learn all the vagaries about how light meters really work. Understand that the basic function of any light meter is to render the color 18% or neutral grey. All the factors of spot, matrix, averaging, incident and reflective readings make much more sense when the meter is used independent of the camera. Or, continue on with sunny 16, and learn all it's variations of shutter/aperture combinations with respect to different asa settings. Pick one ASA and repeat until it's second nature.

The GIII canon is a remarkably usable manual camera, and I would have loved to have one with a working meter years ago. Today, I say it may be a blessing as far as your learning curve that the meter is non functioning.

Use a light meter outside the camera, or go sunny 16, but never slide the camera to A.

I have to say that 40 years ago, the best thing I ever did was take the NYIP correspondence course. (New York Institute of Photography), shooting pics and sending them in to have them returned with tape critiques, and a number to call for help. Now it's all online. I really struggled on the light meter section, but once I opened my brain to how simple a light meter functions and how you apply the readings, photography changed for me in a very positive way.
 
There was some quirk about it but I can't remember the details now. I don't think the meter works in A, or something like that. I sold mine a long time ago. It's a great compact manual camera, though.
 
Are you sure the battery is fresh? Walgreens sells a hearing aid battery that works well. I am not sure of the number, but with a pinch of aluminum foil the battery works fine. The light cell is under the lens. It's not hard to remove and check for a bad connection.
 
Thanks for your replies guys. I take your point kuzano - I've probably learnt more about exposure in the past month than the previous 15 years and I do have a lightmeter but I'd like to fix the automatic for the occasional convenience of it. I've missed or messed up a few shots because I was dithering over settings and my friends are terrified of my QL17! (Maybe that's a good thing...)

Thanks Brian - I forgot to mention that the needle does move when in flash mode so as soon as I finish off this film I'll take the top off and have a quick look around. I say a quick look because I don't want to fall into the trap of, "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it's broke."
 
What do you mean by "flash mode"? You said that you are able to take readings in flash mode? As I remember, you had to take the meter reading in A. The meter only worked in A and not if you set your camera manually. I may be remembering it wrong, but if your battery check works I wonder why the meter does not? I have read advice against taking the tops off these cameras. I saw a picture of one and they are very dense and complex because of all the features and compactness.

By the way did you download the freely available manual?
 
The galvenometer responds in flash mode with focussing. It uses a follow-focus system that is coupled to a variable resistor. It would be interesting to see if this still works, as an attempt to isolate the fault. My deleted comment on the ASA being coupled to the mask in front of the CDS cell was incorrect- on a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 it is coupled. On the Canonet, The ASA dial is coupled to a resistor and the shutter speed dial is coupled to the mask. If that coupling became undone, it would cause problems.


I have some parts Canonets with CDS cells. I'll try to get some pictures. If everything works "except" the meter on "A", it might be worth popping the name ring and have a look. BUT- At this point, unless you want to try DIY camera repair and try to get lucky with a soldering iron, it might be worth using the camera on Manual with a meter.
 
follow the current

follow the current

You need to follow the electrical current.

Get a multi-meter, start taking apart the camera and trace wires. You might have a short leading through the lens.

Yours is a early 1970's "New" Canonet right? I had some corrosion in the battery compartment. The little "bubble" for the positive terminal was worn down and didn't touch the battery...found quickly with the multimeter. Still didn't work though...the found current wasn't being past to the lens. There are two terminals viewable from removing the bottom plate. (watch out a spring will come flying out when you remove it.) The two terminals have red and white wires running to them (on my version) the lead to a little copper arm that touches the lens and pass the current to the sensor. I had two problems here. 1) the front most arm was not touching the plate. 2) that same plate was black with corrosion. Started working for me after that...remember only works in "A" mode.

Other then that, a lens tear down to really find the problem...or just by a new one, although the L is a little harder to find.
 
Hi Guys,

Just a quick update: I took Kuzano's advice and used my QL17-L in manual for the last few months until last week when the shutter release jammed so I was forced to take the top off to have a poke around.

It turns out that the shutter release was getting stiff and was never completely returning to the correct position when depressed - this meant the lightmeter wasn't re-engaging properly after I'd taken a shot. So, a quick clean and a spot of oil and everything's working fine again, including the lightmeter!

Easy when you know how, of course...

My thanks to everyone for their suggestions on this thread and everyone who posted photos and assembly diagrams on other threads - cheers guys.

Ron
 
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